Front Yard ("Emblem") yes, Back Yard ("Blueberry") no.

It's tough to get it perfectly, and I've learned not to try. I'm conservative in this area, and would rather miss a 0.5 lb/K app than look at Spring grass with Winter damage. I was right on time for the Pause-to-Winterizer length this year.

I can't speak for moles, but it is very good at causing voles (which make tracks/trails on the grass) to find a new home.

Off-topic, but you are one of the "students" that a person that teaches (like me) keeps doing teaching for - you can find the nugget of learnings that teachers have made, internalize them, and then build them into your own observations and new ideas. I wish there were 100 people that could do that o...

There is no "seems like" in determining growth stoppage - it's binary. You mow for a few minutes with a bagger on and see if you get grass clippings. It's not an art - it's growing or it's not. Period. Not "slow", not "hardly any" - stopped or not. I'd like you to ponder this: why do you think that ...

It stops growing when it stops growing. There are no "but what about this" angles.

We'll be happy to get it done as soon as the spreadsheet modifications are made - this year I'm experimenting with "artificial intelligence" (AI) for building plans quickly and making them consistent. If work demands permit, this will be a big change. Make sure to put it into the Soil Interpretation...

The soil test interpretation season ended on October 31st, and the spreadsheets, etc are undergoing upgrades now. We won't be doing them again until late January.

If it is broken down to where you can't make out the shavings, it's OK. Otherwise, it will be slow to break down and will behave much like a mulch as much as a compost.

I'm in Charlotte also. Where do you find urea around here?

You realize that the thread that you're asking for advice about is 8 years old, right?

The last sentence is very important - mushroom compost can be very "hot", which means it can burn tender new growth. Nix on anything with mushroom compost if you'll be seeding. I can't offer opinions on "virgin soil" without seeing a soil test - it could be anything.

It's mop-up day here. Got BLUEHANDMATT and SLYDER27's lawns mopped up yesterday, but ran out of daylight before we got to my lawns.

Welcome to ATY !!!! You chose the quiet time of the year to join - most of the Northerners are putting away the mowers and digging out the snowblowers. A couple of comments and questions to get your discussion going: (1) It's a really good idea to put the lawn size and experience level onto your pro...

The Soil Test Interpretation season is now closed. It re-opens in February, 2020.

I now have 10 full years of data, and that helps with determining what works, and what doesn't !!!

There are places that prohibit the application of fertilizer after November 1st.

If it is still growing and you are in The Pause, adding Nitrogen will only compound your problem - new forced growth will not harden and will be subject to possible Winter Kill.

As soon as Sprout-and-Pout has ended, for new grass. There are no other limits, although applications in July and August may keep grass from going dormant when that is the right answer (lack of irrigation is the biggest). Should I wait until growth has stopped or do it now? If you read the paragraph...

We saw the rain yesterday on TV as the Buckeyes were doing their thing to Wisconsin. Go Bucks!

Frost typically doesn't damage new growth. It is damaged as the cold, dry winds of January take their toll, when the tender growth didn't get time to harden before growth stopped. Once again, the average first frost date is NOT because frost will damage anything - it is just the best date to use for...

You don't want to be applying a 24-0-11 fertilizer at this point in the season. The Potassium in it (the third number) has caused increased winter damage/disease in some studies.