Aluminum for reducing pH around a single plant is one thing. Don't do it for a large area -- bad news.

... and the status of the efforts to improve things is????

I would not put down any more Lime for 90 days. That isn't how long it takes to get cheap dolomitic Lime to integrate (which is up to 12-14 months), but you can (pretty safely) switch to good calcitic stuff without harming the grass. Keep it at half doses for the remainder of the season, and pick it...

You know how I'm always saying that the Ca:Mg ratio may show a very tight//hard soil below 6:1, and definitely will show it at below 4:1?? Well, that is a 1.5:1 soil. Chemically, the bonds are so tight, it's like concrete!! With a Base Saturation inverted and a pH of 8.6, the stuff is useless.

There isn't anywhere near enough info to answer the question - it's sort of like "how long do I wait at a traffic light?".

What did you apply, how much per 1000 sq ft, and when did you apply it?

Make sure to post a Link to this in the Soil Test Interpretation Queue thread

I have no idea what the hell they're selling or amending for sale, but those are some crazy numbers. I have real doubts about whether that could exist in the real world. I have never in my whole life seen a 51% Base Saturation for Magnesium, especially at a TEC of around 30. That look like a badly-h...

If you're not seeing any changes or additional germination, you can start the transition, but you have to fully commit to "what I have is what I'm going to have" to do that. It's not an easy decision to make. Go from 3x-5x a day to 2X a day but deeper. And change that after 10 days to 1X a day, etc.

The "5 min cycle" stuff is not optimal. Use your eyes instead of the timer and find the spot where the soil remains moist but not wet. It will change as the days shorten. There are no shortcuts.

I don't know what you're saying in the last paragraph - if you're looking for my buy-in on applying lime at seed-down, it ain't happening. I don't believe in applying lime to soil at the same time as seed - it is an alkaline bath at the most critical time.

Fertilizing grass that has not completed Sprout-and-Pout is not smart - it makes the grass blades look better at the expense of the roots, which struggle to keep up with the top growth. That often causes the winter kill to rise. It''ll look pretty this year and losses over the Winter will increase.

The Fall Fertilization regimen was designed to do weekly apps at 1 lb/K - this rate applies 0.5 lbs/K of N at once, and in order to screw up, you need to overlap in the same exact spot multiple times in a row. That's pretty unlikely. There is nothing to be afraid of about Urea - it's in most of the ...

Much appreciated.

The manufacturer and a couple of university studies show that 3 apps of Certainty need to be down by September 15th. Certainty does not work as well in the cooler weather. It should be pretty obvious that you're not going to have 3 apps down by September 15th. For suppression, apply 0.25 ounce of th...

how long do i need to wait after Tenacity before I should drop seed?

How long does it take you to drink a beer?

The Queue is empty - no waiting for interpretations at this time.

The lawn varies in sandiness from "very sandy" to "somewhat sandy". The OM% varies from "poor" to "pretty good". Add organic matter in the areas that are below 4%, and do it regularly. I suspect some of the variability is more due to a low number of samples as much as any actual difference - a singl...

Better to use a Starter fertilizer (you're short on Phosphorus), then let the clock keep going round and round day after day. I'll be doing the rest of your test interpretation tonight, but I recommend you don't execute the new plan until the lawn is close to Day 60. Pray that Winter doesn't set in ...

Ya gotta read the fine print.

You can go with a timed system, but double-check to make sure it's not making it overly wet. The days are getting shorter and you need to adjust as things change.