Yeesh, bindweed, now that's nasty stuff. I've been fighting that in a few places since we moved here six years ago. It grows and hides at the base of a few shrubs making it very difficult to access the roots for digging. You can't just pull; it snaps easily. After a few years of failing to set it ba...

Caster oil is not known for being an herbicide, pre-emergent or otherwise, so you should have no issue applying it concurrently with seed.

That said, with a product like Molemax, you're supposed to apply it in a sequence to push the moles or voles out of an area, which you could do before seeding.

What do you consider "hardcore chemicals"? By posting in the organic forum, I think the answer is going to be to use your hands, which is what I did years ago after learning the hard way that morning glories were evil. But that was in a relatively limited space because I got on top of the situation ...

Sounds like a plan. Git 'er done. FWIW, when I spot spray, I tend to keep the pressure in the sprayer a little low. Yes, droplet sizes get larger and the spray less uniform, but I can control what gets sprayed much better, especially if I'm spraying in a perennial or shrub bed. Alternatively, if you...

Interesting. Can't say that I saw that while at Tractor Supply yesterday. There's a product page on Lowes.com but not on TractorSupply.com. Looks like the trademark is fairly hot off the press. Surprisingly, someone didn't think it was worth $990 to buy the domain name. Thanks for snapping a pic of ...

Broadleaf weeds will get large much faster than new grass seedlings, making it particularly difficult to grow new grass in the bare spots, so you want to do something about the weeds first. And then I suggest applying Tenacity to the bare soil at seed down for it's moderate performance as a pre-emer...

And now you know why Logan Labs instructs you to send in 2 cups.

It's not so much about mixing the borax into a carrier as it is about getting it to stick uniformly in minuscule quantities to the prills of the carrier. Milorganite and similar biosolids products work wonderfully as a carrier because of the uniformity and small size of the prills and, most importan...

Not that I recommend doing this, but...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAdOAF65Yuw

Definitely search the forums to see what has worked for people.

Thanks for the update.

Compare to Veronica hederaefolia (ivy-leaved speedwell).

I have used imidacloprid as a soil drench to control scale and lace bugs on other spring flowering shrubs, but I have only dared do so after the bloom period, which for boxwoods is April give or take. It would be reckless to make the plants toxic to bees and other beneficial pollinators right before...

And if you recently sodded, why do you have bare spots? And why would they need filling in with topsoil?

Hard labor or heavy equipment. I don't know of any shortcuts. You could rent or have someone come in with a stump grinder to attack the beefiest parts of the roots closest to the trunk.

KB in MD (21740) wrote: ↑

January 31st, 2020, 8:23 am

Clover is easy to pull out.

Oxalis is easy to pull out. White clover is absolutely one of the most challenging weeds to pull by hand, assuming you're pulling it out of grass.

I've got a few still holding on. 'Burgundy Lace' in particular caught my eye earlier today as having far more leaves on it than it should.

No gloopiness as Morpheus warned?

I wouldn't say coincided necessarily, but close enough. It's all part of the same story: a mature tree with leaves simply outcompetes grass for water. Add shade from the canopy, and sun-loving grass doesn't stand a chance.

Even with more than sufficient light (vase shape w/ high limbs), I never had any success growing grass near a mature oak. And I don't have the summer heat of OK to contend with. The demand for water by the tree was always just too great. Yes, the lawn would do somewhat better after the leaves fell, ...