Mine's 5 years old and still looks/works fine. Stored inside in a cool dark place if that makes a difference.

A thatch rake won't do what you want and will disturb the soil. Power de-thatchers are height adjustable like a lawn mower. Use a setting that tears away some of the dead grass with a little soil disturbance as possible then bag with your mower. Better yet, use a steel tine leaf rake as Paul suggest...

Dropped my height of cut down to 2" from 2.5" on my first year grass over the weekend and already received a few compliments. All of the high temps this year have been in the 80-85 range so I'm not worried, and it seems to be doing better at these short heights than my old grass did at 4". I like t...

Yesterday, SOP on front and watered entire lawn then received a surprise 1" of rain after midnight. With cooler temps in the forecast should have put down some milo as well. More rain forecast for the next couple days so will git'er done.

Exposing small mounds (vs high spots in the lawn) should not be a problem unless you have a really bad POA infestation. On the other hand I don't feel going down to 1" is necessary either. Like eden said, feel it out and get it before it flops.

Impossible to tell by your pictures. If you part the dead grass and see the soil you are good to go. What dead grass you have left matting down will not prevent seedlings from emerging. A light raking after putting the seed down may hasten them getting to the soil surface.

Looking good, should make a great seed bed.

Not an ST6 member but I'll take a crack at it. Looks like you have a very sandy soil as it does not appear to hold a very high level of nutrients. Too bad this test does not indicate the TEC as that would confirm the soil type. PH is in the zone due to the Ca to Mg ratio but you are low on Potassium...

Pawnee Buttes has sod quality Prosperity and sells in small quantities.

http://www.pawneebuttesseed.com/seed-list/turf-grasses/

Oops, I see you already ordered.

Did you notice if the plug was wet when you took it out? Either way check for spark. Take the plug out, set it so it touching the cylinder head and crank it over. (helps to see the spark if not in bright sun) you may here it as well.

I think you are in good shape all things considered. Hopefully temps will start winding down in August this year so you can get an early start with an aggressive fert plan.

During my 2015 summer reno (seed down 6/3/15) I did 3 x 3oz/A tenacity apps 7-10 days apart in July and had excellent results on the POA that popped up in the reno.

It's typically 3-4 days before you start seeing the effects of the roundup. Out of curiosity what kind of climate do you have in SE Washington?

Congrats on the kill! Go ahead with the watering if needed to get a good head start on the fallow period.

Now need to "dethatch" the left over dead grass. You want what is left after the final buzz cut to help shade the seedlings and conserve moisture. I and many others count on it instead of putting down peat moss and it works great.

Your seed will get to the soil no worries.

Good Afternoon, I've got what I think is a Kentucky Blue Grass Yard. I'd like to have a very thick yard and was considering putting down 1 36lb bag per 2500 sqft once a month from spring through September. Any reason why I shouldn't do this? Will this accomplish my goal? Thank you, Roland Roland As...

Nice soil! Be sure to add a link in the Interpretation queue thread.

If you can see soil beneath the existing grass you don't need to dethatch. Cut the dead grass as short as possible, bag the clippings and you're good to go.

Hey ATYU out of curiosity is that new construction or a long establish lawn?

If you have a good phosphorous number it seldom needs supplementing. Potassium is a different story. Grass uses more K and it moves through the soil more readily than P. Having a high K number never hurts. I have building K for 5 years and still have a ways to go.