Yep. Grass under trees can be tough. You have a couple of choices. Water more in that area. But frankly between fungal concerns and how much water a mature tree can take up, that doesn’t seem like a good approach. Try seeding with fine or tall fescue in that area. That might help. But it might not. ...

I think your only solution for the fescue is either roundup or some selective herbicide. Round up will kill everything, of course. Mixing the grass will depend on what you want. If you want it to look closer to KBG, you’ll robsbly want a P. Rye. But as you probably know it tends to die or go dormant...

The herbicide Corsair kills Fescue without killing KBG. But I believe it is off the market, unless it is now being sold under a different name.

I’d generally not look to any forum for information about the safety of any kind of synthetic pesticide. Your best bet is to read the label. Then read information online by the manufacturer and then broaden your search for the efficacy of the organic alternative. Some forums will likely fire off hal...

I’ve never heard of it.

But you can read about Iron-based weed killers generally

https://extension.umd.edu/resource/iron ... pplication.

Most folks are notoriously bad at identifying grassy weeds from pics. That said, crabgrass will die off itself in a few months. It’s an annual weed. I suggest looking closer at the whole plant. Does it have underground rhizomes? Take a closer look at the above ground plant. No one is going to have a...

That’s going to depend on your local conditions.

Well, this time of year, your bent grass will likely be dormant. So that’s the primary problem. It’s difficult to keep it healthy in the best of conditions.

But it’s doubtful that a good portion of your Bent grass isn’t in a dormant state. In that case, Tenacity won’t solve your problem.

Tenacity kills Bent. Just be sure to read the label on application rates.

Even better, a walk behind sprayer like an S15 or S25 Earthway (not sure they are still sold) backpack sprayers are not great

Did you post a link in the analysis queue? That’s what they use to keep track of what’s waiting.

You should review this thread (pinned at the top of the subforum)

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=9339

High all season until late October. I keep it at 3-inches over winter. 4.25-inches spring, summer and most of the fall.

If you’ve got cool-season grass, set it at your mower’s highest setting.

Rent the roller from Home Depot rental center

I’ve found in my own renovations that there’s no need to rake or cover it. I’d certainly never use straw on my renovations.

There’s no officially endorsed way to do this. Everyone does what they think will get them the best results. Most folks have a process very similar to what you’ve posted.

Most sprinklers I’ve repaired use polypipe, with very little pvc near valves. In those cases, barbed connectors are the norm when repairing the polypipe.

I’d suggest having a good tree surgeon come take a look. Most won’t charge you to come out to take a look and tell you if it can be saved.

This isn’t something that you can legitimately diagnose just from pictures posted on the Internet.

My backyard on the worst day (25 miles outside New York City)

The general rle is one-inch per week. But given variables such as what you cite, you’ll need to adjust as needed. Everyone’s specific conditions differ. You need to adjust as needed.

Take that for what it’s worth. I don’t doubt that tweaking micronutrients can improve your lawn. I don’t doubt that Morph gave you good advice on the rates to apply. I just don’t know that I trust myself enough to get the application right. Again, it’s a choice everyone needs to make for themselves.