Advice for area that retains water?

[Green]

I have an area in the low input area that appears to have silty soil, and sometimes does not drain for 2 weeks in the Fall and Spring, making it tough to access for mowing. Also there's Winter kill due to ice, and it's a Poa annua hotbed.

What can I do for the area? Is letting it go natural and stopping mowing the only choice? Because I'm desperate and nearly at that point, but I think that's a really bad idea for a bunch of reasons. Is there anything I can do to start improving the situation so it drains a bit faster and is easier to maintain the lawn?

Are the percolation test and soil jar test necessary first steps that can help figure out what can be done? I'm hoping something can be done. The worst area is maybe 500 square feet.

[Riverpilot]

First thing I would try is the soil conditioner, which I'm sure you've done, and the jar test to see how things are.

Second, I would look into a drain, french drain, something of that nature. I had to do that with my side lawn due to rain gutters from my house and neighbors dumping into a low area that would flood anytime it rained. Now, with the addition of soil conditioner, it handles rain without a problem.

They have pipes now with the pipe, rock, etc.. all tied together now.

[Green]

I actually have not tried the soil conditioner yet, but that is an excellent suggestion.

I will not be going the drain route, but it's a valid suggestion. In this case, it appears the problem is in the uppermost layers of the soil. I dug out some with a hand spade today, and the soil came out in chunks when I dug into it. It's very dark in color. The water pools on top of it and stays there, even with a half inch of water. The roots are shallow.

[TimmyG]

I would take advantage of the situation and convert the area to a wetland/rain garden. In fact, that's just what I did. Don't fight it. Embrace it.

[Green]

I would take advantage of the situation and convert the area to a wetland/rain garden. In fact, that's just what I did. Don't fight it. Embrace it.

Interesting idea. However, a guide from UConn on the subject states that if the area holds water for 24 hours, it's not a candidate for a rain garden...rather, it would be a pond. And that's the situation I have.

I don't mind a temporary pond, in fact it brings some nice wildlife into the yard, but when the water stands for a few days or more than a week in the very worst part of the area, you can't mow, and mosquitoes love it for breeding.

[Green]

I was reading about soil types. Maybe silty usn't the right term...although that's probably part of it. But it might be more of a clay and/or peat layer judging by the descriptions. I'm guessing that being perpetually wet has modified the structure of the original sandy soil over many decades, causing the heavier, larger sand particles to be carried away over time, leaving the finer particles in a black layer at the top.

I have tried mulching leaves into this soil. The result is a sort of slop or slurry that retains even more water, and they don't readily break down and the slop has to be raked out in the Spring.

It looks like problem soil is mostly in the top 3 inches or so.

[Green]

I have to wonder if dumping of certain waste substances or chemicals by industries decades ago may also have contributed to the issue over time.

[Green]

Andy,

Do you think there's much value in testing the top levels of soil at Logan Labs? I have a feeling I may have an anaerobic black layer or peat based soil in the top 2 to 3 inches. The water sits on top.

Thanks.

[andy10917]

I'd dig a hole and then look for obvious causes, and do a (free!) percolation test (see the "Soil Management Part 1" article in the Articles area). Save the topsoil and grass plug separate from subsoil and replace in the right order when done.