Eskcipher 2019 Soil Test
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- Posts: 12
- Joined: February 6th, 2019, 11:08 pm
- Location: Uvalde Texas
- Grass Type: Burmuda
- Lawn Size: 5000-10000
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Eskcipher 2019 Soil Test
First ever test I’ve ever done on my yard. 10,000 square-foot Burmuda grass (with a little buffalo grass and Saint Augustine both I plan on removing). Last two years I was basically flying blind so the first year only put down 46-0-0 fertilizer at .5#N bi-weekly throughout the growing season, Second year tried Milo one time but it’s difficult to come by in my town and I couldn’t keep up with paying that amount to go across my entire yard, switch to a 20-4-8 w/ 25% Sulfur coated urea 1#N monthly. I put down some alfalfa pellets randomly twice and I tried a bag of ironite once because I didn’t think my grass was green enough. Lawn gets 1 inch rain/irrigation a week depending on weather or if I can’t get a screwdriver past 3 inches, watering is slow take about 8 hrs for entire yard and I’m still trying to get a few places to fill in.
Specifics are Difficult to remember because I didn’t keep a journal but I am now and I am excited to actually be a part of the forum now and I would like to try to get a best case scenario and see what I can do from there with what resources I can come by
Thank y’all much
Specifics are Difficult to remember because I didn’t keep a journal but I am now and I am excited to actually be a part of the forum now and I would like to try to get a best case scenario and see what I can do from there with what resources I can come by
Thank y’all much
- andy10917
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Re: Eskcipher 2019 Soil Test
Make sure to put a link to this thread into the 2019 Soil Test Interpretation Queue, so we don't forget you! I'll be starting interpretations this weekend.
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Re: Eskcipher 2019 Soil Test
Done. Thank you sir I just hope I did it right.
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Re: Eskcipher 2019 Soil Test
Wow - I can't wait to see the interpretation of this one.
(Sorry, nothing of value to add
(Sorry, nothing of value to add
- andy10917
- Posts: 29741
- Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
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Re: Eskcipher 2019 Soil Test
That is almost certainly a calcareous soil. If the budget can handle the extra expense, you may want to call Logan Labs and ask them to re-run the tests as "ammonium acetate tests for the cations only". If you don't, I'll have to guess about the impact of the excess Calcium and that's not optimal - especially on a first-time test. Logan stores the soil samples for a couple of weeks before disposing of them.
If you decide to retest, let me know to put your interpretation of Hold...
If you decide to retest, let me know to put your interpretation of Hold...
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Re: Eskcipher 2019 Soil Test
Wow OK y’all are starting to worry me a little bit lol. I was wanting to get started as soon as possible but I guess I rather have the most accurate information I’ll call them first thing Monday and see what I can do in the meantime I’ll just scalp it and get it ready.
I remember reading about the ammonium acetate test on a different thread and there was two, which one do you want.
I remember reading about the ammonium acetate test on a different thread and there was two, which one do you want.
- andy10917
- Posts: 29741
- Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
- Location: NY (Lower Hudson Valley)
- Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
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Re: Eskcipher 2019 Soil Test
Just tell them that you have calcareous soil, and want the basic test with Ammonium Acetate testing for cations only. I'll figure the rest out when you pot it.
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Re: Eskcipher 2019 Soil Test
This is really interesting... I suspect I am in a similar boat living on top of a limestone plateau. Crazy how the calcium reading (and subsequently the other cations) changed so dramatically. Your OM is pretty darn good... are you doing anything specific for that?
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Re: Eskcipher 2019 Soil Test
On the OMs not really so far. First year I found an organic lawn company that put out liquid products and I use their liquid aerator and a soil conditioner and fertilizer for a little bit but at the time I didn’t understand what it was and was was going with “it is supposed to help” but they were kind of expensive and didn’t last long. Last year, just shooting in the dark, I applied alfalfa pellets twice (10 Lbs per k) and some alfalfa tea, molasses, Epson salt mix in the front because I learned that alfalfa supposed to have a growing and rooting stimulant in it
Other than that just mulching everything and I can find a lot of earthworm deposits early in the year and actually right now i have adilemma because last year I put down a granular for fire ants and such then the earthworms disappeared and I don’t know if there’s a connection to that but the worms are back again so we shall see.
But so far this year my plan is to follow the soil recommendations as best I can and go and empty out my grandfathers quite large compost bin and put it out on at least my front yard if not the entire thing (as payment for me raking his place to refill it) and if I can find a hole in the budget maybe put out alfalfa pellets a couple of times.
Other than that just mulching everything and I can find a lot of earthworm deposits early in the year and actually right now i have adilemma because last year I put down a granular for fire ants and such then the earthworms disappeared and I don’t know if there’s a connection to that but the worms are back again so we shall see.
But so far this year my plan is to follow the soil recommendations as best I can and go and empty out my grandfathers quite large compost bin and put it out on at least my front yard if not the entire thing (as payment for me raking his place to refill it) and if I can find a hole in the budget maybe put out alfalfa pellets a couple of times.
- andy10917
- Posts: 29741
- Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
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Re: Eskcipher 2019 Soil Test
Well, lookie there!! Bring a little Ammonium Acetate to the table, and the soil starts singing a different tune, eh?
You have Calcareous soil (so much Calcium that it can't all make it into the soil's exchange sites). Duh! There is absolutely nothing you can do about it - if you managed to displace a little, new stuff that's waiting would just repeat the whole cycle. The good news that Bermuda tolerates it pretty well, although getting top color (from Iron) can be a waste of money and time, unless you really want the fight.
Interestingly, you have a scenario that I don't see often -- Potasium is holding it's own in the battle. That's good! And the OM is good, too.
Phosphorus is fine, too (although it's not part of the fight).
You have a heavy soil with lots of nutrients. That keeps the costs down and it doesn't easily leach away. Combining the Calcium, Magnesium and Potasium leads you to the pH of 8.1 which is quite alkaline, but Bermuda can handle it. Since the lawn isn't enormous, you could apply inexpensive Urea as a Nitrogen source (applied every six weeks) and a Milorganite application halfway between the Urea apps. Milorganite has a naturally chelated form of Iron in it that doesn't get easily whacked by the Calcium. The only other choice would be to buy and use chemically-created chelated Iron and apply it monthly. Your current Iron number is one of the lowest I've ever seen - it's abysmal.
In the micro's, everything is at OK numbers (although some people think Iron is a micro).
This shouldn't cost you a fortune - 2 lbs/K of Urea every month with chelated Iron (as defined on the bottle), or 2 lbs/K of Urea every 6 weeks with a bag-rate Milorganite app halfway between Urea apps.
You have Calcareous soil (so much Calcium that it can't all make it into the soil's exchange sites). Duh! There is absolutely nothing you can do about it - if you managed to displace a little, new stuff that's waiting would just repeat the whole cycle. The good news that Bermuda tolerates it pretty well, although getting top color (from Iron) can be a waste of money and time, unless you really want the fight.
Interestingly, you have a scenario that I don't see often -- Potasium is holding it's own in the battle. That's good! And the OM is good, too.
Phosphorus is fine, too (although it's not part of the fight).
You have a heavy soil with lots of nutrients. That keeps the costs down and it doesn't easily leach away. Combining the Calcium, Magnesium and Potasium leads you to the pH of 8.1 which is quite alkaline, but Bermuda can handle it. Since the lawn isn't enormous, you could apply inexpensive Urea as a Nitrogen source (applied every six weeks) and a Milorganite application halfway between the Urea apps. Milorganite has a naturally chelated form of Iron in it that doesn't get easily whacked by the Calcium. The only other choice would be to buy and use chemically-created chelated Iron and apply it monthly. Your current Iron number is one of the lowest I've ever seen - it's abysmal.
In the micro's, everything is at OK numbers (although some people think Iron is a micro).
This shouldn't cost you a fortune - 2 lbs/K of Urea every month with chelated Iron (as defined on the bottle), or 2 lbs/K of Urea every 6 weeks with a bag-rate Milorganite app halfway between Urea apps.
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- Posts: 12
- Joined: February 6th, 2019, 11:08 pm
- Location: Uvalde Texas
- Grass Type: Burmuda
- Lawn Size: 5000-10000
- Level: Some Experience
Re: Eskcipher 2019 Soil Test
Thank you very much Andy. I greatly appreciate that you confirmed everything was mostly OK.
Through my knowledge lowering the Ph with the excess calcium would be a pointless losing battle correct?
I’m gonna have to order the chelated iron and go that route sense I might only find a bag or 2 of milo a year around here. I am happy to get some actual recommendations for my lawn instead of just going by my gut. My ranching, wildlife background do little to help me translate the numbers and around here I can’t get good help unless the area is about 20 acres. I’m happy to be apart of the forum now and hope to get to the point to truly help others.
But once again thanks Andy
Through my knowledge lowering the Ph with the excess calcium would be a pointless losing battle correct?
I’m gonna have to order the chelated iron and go that route sense I might only find a bag or 2 of milo a year around here. I am happy to get some actual recommendations for my lawn instead of just going by my gut. My ranching, wildlife background do little to help me translate the numbers and around here I can’t get good help unless the area is about 20 acres. I’m happy to be apart of the forum now and hope to get to the point to truly help others.
But once again thanks Andy
- andy10917
- Posts: 29741
- Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
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Re: Eskcipher 2019 Soil Test
You're welcome!! I forgot to mention that chelated Iron is $$$$, Do not think that you can substitute plain old Ferrous Sulfate or standard Iron products that are much cheaper - they almost instantly become unavailable to plants when in the presence of Calcium at a pH of 7.1 or higher - you'll waster your money.
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Re: Eskcipher 2019 Soil Test
Alrighty, I am already on the search but thank you for the extra info so I can make sure to get the right one
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Re: Eskcipher 2019 Soil Test
Also, not all chelated iron is the same.andy10917 wrote: ↑February 26th, 2019, 11:48 pmYou're welcome!! I forgot to mention that chelated Iron is $$$$, Do not think that you can substitute plain old Ferrous Sulfate or standard Iron products that are much cheaper - they almost instantly become unavailable to plants when in the presence of Calcium at a pH of 7.1 or higher - you'll waster your money.
EDTA chelated iron is less expensive, but you'll probably need EDDHA chelated iron. It's far more expensive. I use it to keep a massive tree healthy.
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Re: Eskcipher 2019 Soil Test
Bpgreen thank you, I still looking around online but I’ll keep my eyes open for your recommendation
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Re: Eskcipher 2019 Soil Test
If you're doing this for your lawn, EDDHA chelated iron would be prohibitively expensive.
I use it in a targeted manner on individual plants. I don't know if it would be really feasible on a large scale. I'll let Andy come in on whether edta chelated iron would help the lawn.
I use it in a targeted manner on individual plants. I don't know if it would be really feasible on a large scale. I'll let Andy come in on whether edta chelated iron would help the lawn.
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- Posts: 12
- Joined: February 6th, 2019, 11:08 pm
- Location: Uvalde Texas
- Grass Type: Burmuda
- Lawn Size: 5000-10000
- Level: Some Experience
Re: Eskcipher 2019 Soil Test
Yeah I’m seeing that as well $25 for low dose on just my front lawn for one month. I’m more than likely going to try some iron at some point but I’m not gonna go crazy
- andy10917
- Posts: 29741
- Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
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- Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
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Re: Eskcipher 2019 Soil Test
I offer it up as an option/alternative to those that don't want or can't get Milorganite/Bay State/etc. I haven't used it in years. I just know that people working hard at a regimen need a little visual feedback that the lawn/soil is improving, and Iron will do that.I'll let Andy come in on whether edta chelated iron would help the lawn.
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- Posts: 3873
- Joined: January 3rd, 2009, 2:28 am
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- Lawn Size: 3000-5000
- Level: Experienced
Re: Eskcipher 2019 Soil Test
Any soil based iron treatment is basically either cost prohibitive or doomed to fail in high ph soils. The sewage based fertilizers will have some success, but things like ironite will only result in staining sidewalks.
For short term results, foliar iron applications will work. The problem with foliar applications is that they're very short lived (days or weeks).
One other possible helpful product is iron sucrose. I basically gave up and concentrated on keeping one tree alive years ago, but I remember reading about that before I gave up.
For short term results, foliar iron applications will work. The problem with foliar applications is that they're very short lived (days or weeks).
One other possible helpful product is iron sucrose. I basically gave up and concentrated on keeping one tree alive years ago, but I remember reading about that before I gave up.
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