Persico’s Soil Test

Learn how improving your soil can lead to a better looking lawn
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KPersico
Posts: 31
Joined: May 4th, 2020, 5:12 pm
Location: Long Island NY
Grass Type: Kentucky Bluegrass
Lawn Size: 20000-1 acre
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Persico’s Soil Test

Post by KPersico » March 21st, 2021, 12:37 pm

Hi,

Thank you in advance for all the great knowledge I’ve gained from this forum.

The soil test in reference is for the following:

Kentucky bluegrass in Suffolk County (Holbrook, NY)
Approximately 24,400 square feet of grass
Irrigation is each morning via sprinkler system at 20 minute intervals per section
Lawn is cut once a week with a toro ride on mower at approximately 3 inches
Last year the lawn was treated with pre emergent tenancity twice and had success in July but failed in august due to crabgrass. I attempted to patch some areas with seeding in September.
My plan is to put down Pre Emergent once the soil temp is around 50 degrees which appears to be this upcoming week.
I’d like some info based on my soil test as to what else I should do.


Image

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andy10917
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Re: Persico’s Soil Test

Post by andy10917 » March 21st, 2021, 12:55 pm

OK - you need to do two things:

(1) put a link to this posting into the Soil Test Interpretation Queue
(2) tell us the end to the story of your Tenacity issue last year - did it recover fully?

KPersico
Posts: 31
Joined: May 4th, 2020, 5:12 pm
Location: Long Island NY
Grass Type: Kentucky Bluegrass
Lawn Size: 20000-1 acre
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Re: Persico’s Soil Test

Post by KPersico » March 21st, 2021, 1:03 pm

Yes sorry I was waiting for the post to be approved.

The tenancity issue turned out to not be an issue.

Below is how it turned out in July.


Image

August was then rough for the grass

Image

Andy doing this one

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MorpheusPA
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Re: Persico’s Soil Test

Post by MorpheusPA » March 21st, 2021, 3:42 pm

Andy doing this one

Alrighty then, if Andy called it, I'll just keep my filthy hands off it, then. :-)

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andy10917
Posts: 29379
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Re: Persico’s Soil Test

Post by andy10917 » March 21st, 2021, 9:15 pm

OK - I'm going to handle the soil test results first, and then handle the other items in your email.

The soil is not too bad by Long Island standards. it is showing most of the signatures of LI soil. These are lower TEC numbers (the soil's ability to hold nutrients), acidic to neutral soils, and a natural crumbly property when it has not been abused.

Your TEC of 5.19 points to a sandy nature. Since the OM% is 5.41% (great!), I suspect that the native soil is even sandier than indicated, with the OM lifting it pretty well.

And then we move to the cations. Calcium is a bit high, but nothing to cause trouble. The Magnesium is a bit low, but I'd rather see Calcium high and Magnesium a little low than the other way around. But the Potassium deficiit is significant, and should be addressed. In an initial/gross remediation of the soil, I'd let a little Muriate of Potash (Potassium Chloride) slip by, but I suspect this soil is at the tweaking stage, and I'd really go out of my way to get Sulfate of Potash ("SOP") for a soil with this profile. 1 lb/K of SOP monthly April until September.

The end result of the cations is that the pH is near 7.0. If it had more Potassium, I'd like how it is getting to the pH number. You'll get there.

In the Anions, Phosphorus is low. You could use a Starter fertilizer to get the P component, or one of several high-P sources. Give me a hint of your preferred solution to Nitrogen fertilization and I'll work to get you a good P source to match it.

Nitrogen is typically up to you, unless you want my recommendation.

Iron is pretty plentiful in your soil, and I'd leave it alone and not play with it.

In the other micronutrients, only Boron could use your attention. Do you want to address it this year, or handle the other stuff and tap the Boron later?


PS: if you have trouble finding Sulfate of Potash and are up for a little bit of a ride, check the LI Cauliflower Association in Riverhead -- it's mostly a straight shot on the LIE.


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andy10917
Posts: 29379
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Level: Advanced

Re: Persico’s Soil Test

Post by andy10917 » March 21st, 2021, 9:25 pm

Irrigation is each morning via sprinkler system at 20 minute intervals per section
That might be too much or too little. Use tuna cans or cat food cans to see how much water you are applying in the 20 minutes. Deeper, infrequent watering is far better than daily watering, as the roots will get scorched by the sun in July and August if the roots are near the surface. What does that look like? It looks like your August picture.
Lawn is cut once a week with a toro ride on mower at approximately 3 inches
You might want to go to 3.5" or even 4" in Summer. Again, this can help with sun-scorching in Summer - by keeping the sun from getting to the soil easily.

KPersico
Posts: 31
Joined: May 4th, 2020, 5:12 pm
Location: Long Island NY
Grass Type: Kentucky Bluegrass
Lawn Size: 20000-1 acre
Level: Not Specified

Re: Persico’s Soil Test

Post by KPersico » March 21st, 2021, 9:31 pm

andy10917 wrote:
March 21st, 2021, 9:15 pm
OK - I'm going to handle the soil test results first, and then handle the other items in your email.

The soil is not too bad by Long Island standards. it is showing most of the signatures of LI soil. These are lower TEC numbers (the soil's ability to hold nutrients), acidic to neutral soils, and a natural crumbly property when it has not been abused.

Your TEC of 5.19 points to a sandy nature. Since the OM% is 5.41% (great!), I suspect that the native soil is even sandier than indicated, with the OM lifting it pretty well.

And then we move to the cations. Calcium is a bit high, but nothing to cause trouble. The Magnesium is a bit low, but I'd rather see Calcium high and Magnesium a little low than the other way around. But the Potassium deficiit is significant, and should be addressed. In an initial/gross remediation of the soil, I'd let a little Muriate of Potash (Potassium Chloride) slip by, but I suspect this soil is at the tweaking stage, and I'd really go out of my way to get Sulfate of Potash ("SOP") for a soil with this profile. 1 lb/K of SOP monthly April until September.

The end result of the cations is that the pH is near 7.0. If it had more Potassium, I'd like how it is getting to the pH number. You'll get there.

In the Anions, Phosphorus is low. You could use a Starter fertilizer to get the P component, or one of several high-P sources. Give me a hint of your preferred solution to Nitrogen fertilization and I'll work to get you a good P source to match it.

Nitrogen is typically up to you, unless you want my recommendation.

Iron is pretty plentiful in your soil, and I'd leave it alone and not play with it.

In the other micronutrients, only Boron could use your attention. Do you want to address it this year, or handle the other stuff and tap the Boron later?


PS: if you have trouble finding Sulfate of Potash and are up for a little bit of a ride, check the LI Cauliflower Association in Riverhead -- it's mostly a straight shot on the LIE.

Ok I plan to head over to river head this week and get the sulfate of potash. Do you want me to pick you up anything?

As for the pre emergent schedule that stays correct? Use a prodiamine mix once the soil gets to temp and then use the sulfate about a week later? Then a phosphorus? What would the monthly schedule be?

KPersico
Posts: 31
Joined: May 4th, 2020, 5:12 pm
Location: Long Island NY
Grass Type: Kentucky Bluegrass
Lawn Size: 20000-1 acre
Level: Not Specified

Re: Persico’s Soil Test

Post by KPersico » March 21st, 2021, 9:36 pm

I’m sorry this is all new to me.

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andy10917
Posts: 29379
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Re: Persico’s Soil Test

Post by andy10917 » March 21st, 2021, 9:51 pm

Do you want me to pick you up anything?
Yes - a large box of $100 bills.
As for the pre emergent schedule that stays correct? Use a prodiamine mix once the soil gets to temp
Use the best measurements that you or the Internet can provide. Then look at the Forsythia - if they are yellow, it's time to put down Pre-M. Nothing is more accurate.
use the sulfate about a week later?
There is no waiting period.
Then a phosphorus? What would the monthly schedule be?
Again, no waiting period. You can use Milorganite (6-4-0), Triple Superphospade (0-46-0) or Mono Ammonium Phosphate (11-52-0). Application rates vary by which one you pick. Monthly schedules are simple: apply once a month about 30 days apart. Don't overthink it.

KPersico
Posts: 31
Joined: May 4th, 2020, 5:12 pm
Location: Long Island NY
Grass Type: Kentucky Bluegrass
Lawn Size: 20000-1 acre
Level: Not Specified

Re: Persico’s Soil Test

Post by KPersico » March 27th, 2021, 1:40 pm

andy10917 wrote:
March 21st, 2021, 9:15 pm
OK - I'm going to handle the soil test results first, and then handle the other items in your email.

The soil is not too bad by Long Island standards. it is showing most of the signatures of LI soil. These are lower TEC numbers (the soil's ability to hold nutrients), acidic to neutral soils, and a natural crumbly property when it has not been abused.

Your TEC of 5.19 points to a sandy nature. Since the OM% is 5.41% (great!), I suspect that the native soil is even sandier than indicated, with the OM lifting it pretty well.



I decided to make the trip today out to river head and of course they were closed (still winter hours). However, just to clarify, for the SOP is it 1 pound total or 1 pound per 1,000 sq ft?

And then we move to the cations. Calcium is a bit high, but nothing to cause trouble. The Magnesium is a bit low, but I'd rather see Calcium high and Magnesium a little low than the other way around. But the Potassium deficiit is significant, and should be addressed. In an initial/gross remediation of the soil, I'd let a little Muriate of Potash (Potassium Chloride) slip by, but I suspect this soil is at the tweaking stage, and I'd really go out of my way to get Sulfate of Potash ("SOP") for a soil with this profile. 1 lb/K of SOP monthly April until September.

The end result of the cations is that the pH is near 7.0. If it had more Potassium, I'd like how it is getting to the pH number. You'll get there.

In the Anions, Phosphorus is low. You could use a Starter fertilizer to get the P component, or one of several high-P sources. Give me a hint of your preferred solution to Nitrogen fertilization and I'll work to get you a good P source to match it.

Nitrogen is typically up to you, unless you want my recommendation.

Iron is pretty plentiful in your soil, and I'd leave it alone and not play with it.

In the other micronutrients, only Boron could use your attention. Do you want to address it this year, or handle the other stuff and tap the Boron later?


PS: if you have trouble finding Sulfate of Potash and are up for a little bit of a ride, check the LI Cauliflower Association in Riverhead -- it's mostly a straight shot on the LIE.

User avatar
andy10917
Posts: 29379
Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
Location: NY (Lower Hudson Valley)
Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
Lawn Size: 1 acre-2 acre
Level: Advanced

Re: Persico’s Soil Test

Post by andy10917 » March 27th, 2021, 2:09 pm

Ugh!!! You buried your responses inside of a quote of my interpretation - that leaves me trying to figure out what I wrote and what you wrote. The only thing that I see as your's is
I decided to make the trip today out to river head and of course they were closed (still winter hours). However, just to clarify, for the SOP is it 1 pound total or 1 pound per 1,000 sq ft?
Let me know if there are other questions buried in there...

The answer to your question is supplied in the statement
1 lb/K of SOP monthly April until September.
This is expanded to mean "Apply one lb of Sulfate of Potash (SOP) per each 1,000 square feet of soil, each month between April and September". The letter "K" is an abbreviation for "1000 sq ft".

KPersico
Posts: 31
Joined: May 4th, 2020, 5:12 pm
Location: Long Island NY
Grass Type: Kentucky Bluegrass
Lawn Size: 20000-1 acre
Level: Not Specified

Re: Persico’s Soil Test

Post by KPersico » April 10th, 2021, 7:16 pm

Put down my pre emergent prodiamine two weeks ago and just today I am finding a lot of different weeds. Should I blanket spray tenancity? I just got my sulfate of potash as you recommended in the mail and was getting ready to fertilize.

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