20k Reno Soil Test

Learn how improving your soil can lead to a better looking lawn
Post Reply
San
Posts: 16
Joined: June 21st, 2021, 12:15 pm
Location: South Eastern MA
Grass Type: TTTF
Lawn Size: 20000-1 acre
Level: Novice

20k Reno Soil Test

Post by San » June 29th, 2021, 1:31 pm

I'm doing a renovation on about 20k this year on a new property I just moved in to.
It's a relative new construction, house was finished May last year, but yard probably only received some contractors seed and was left to the weeds.
So currently the yard is all weeds, so I don't have to protect anything and can be as aggressive as needed.

I was rather surprised be how alkaline the soil is, as I read everywhere that we have very acidic soil here in the North East.

Thanks for any recommendations, I'm new to this, but learning a lot as I go along.
Here is a quick link to my current overall plan for the Reno: viewtopic.php?f=13&t=26729

Soil test:

Image

User avatar
andy10917
Posts: 29520
Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
Location: NY (Lower Hudson Valley)
Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
Lawn Size: 1 acre-2 acre
Level: Advanced

Re: 20k Reno Soil Test

Post by andy10917 » July 10th, 2021, 10:02 am

Yeah, that's a bit surprising, but I'll take it as legitimate test results - you're probably located in an area that has some unusual soil...

For the most part, there isn't a ton you need to do - the alkaline nature isn't going to change, and you'll just have to deal with what you have.

The soil is a medium loam (nice!) with a so-so organic matter content. It contains a surplus of Calcium. There is a shortage of Potassium, so you'll have to locate and buy Sulfate of Potash ("SOP", 0-0-50) and apply it at 2 lbs/K monthly. We'll leave the Magnesium alone for now as we don't want to push the pH higher.

Phosphorus and Iron are fine, but the Iron will not be available to the grass at your pH. If color is important to you, read up on foliar-applied Iron using Ferrous Ammonium Sulfate.

The micronutrients are OK for now.

That only leaves you with choosing a Nitrogen source - this is generally left to the owner unless you need guidance.

A weed issue like your's is generally treated with the Triangle Approach, but lots of caution is needed if your going to be seeding the lawn in late Summer - make sure to read any herbicide labels for how long you need to wait for seeding after herbicide treatments...

San
Posts: 16
Joined: June 21st, 2021, 12:15 pm
Location: South Eastern MA
Grass Type: TTTF
Lawn Size: 20000-1 acre
Level: Novice

Re: 20k Reno Soil Test

Post by San » July 14th, 2021, 12:56 am

Thanks Andy!

I found the SOP at a local Siteone.

I was just planning to kill it all off with Glyphosate, as even the little grass that’s in between the weeds, is from some unattractive contractor’s mix. From what I read, as long as I don’t over apply, I should be able to seed right after.

I would actually appreciate the guidance on Nitrogen as well, especially with regards to preparing for the new seed mid August.

Thanks again!

User avatar
andy10917
Posts: 29520
Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
Location: NY (Lower Hudson Valley)
Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
Lawn Size: 1 acre-2 acre
Level: Advanced

Re: 20k Reno Soil Test

Post by andy10917 » July 14th, 2021, 8:18 am

You can look into Bay State fertilizer for Nitrogen (lucky you in your location), or Urea (46-0-0) at 2 lbs/K monthly. Read about the Fall Fertilization Regimens. I don't think that Nitrogen is a good addition to a new seeding until the "sprout and pout" stage is over - it forces top growth before the root system can really support it.

San
Posts: 16
Joined: June 21st, 2021, 12:15 pm
Location: South Eastern MA
Grass Type: TTTF
Lawn Size: 20000-1 acre
Level: Novice

Re: 20k Reno Soil Test

Post by San » July 15th, 2021, 4:48 pm

Seems Bay State is sold out for the moment. But I signed up for updates.

I’ll hold off on the Nitrogen for the moment.

I thought as starter fertilizer has it in, I might have to add it all when putting seed down.
Also would you recommend a quick release after the sprout and pout? And migrate to slow release after that?


User avatar
andy10917
Posts: 29520
Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
Location: NY (Lower Hudson Valley)
Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
Lawn Size: 1 acre-2 acre
Level: Advanced

Re: 20k Reno Soil Test

Post by andy10917 » July 15th, 2021, 5:51 pm

I thought as starter fertilizer has it in, I might have to add it all when putting seed down.
The important nutrient in a starter fertilizer is Phosphorus. You have plenty of Phosphorus already. Newly seeded grass does not need fertilizer until Sprout-and-Pout is over - there is no magic because it says "Starter" in the name if you are not deficient in Phosphorus.
Also would you recommend a quick release after the sprout and pout? And migrate to slow release after that?
You can add an application of fast-release fertilizer when Sprout-and-Pout ends, and I'd suggest reading the first page of the Fall Fertilization Regimens thread for what to do in the Fall season.

San
Posts: 16
Joined: June 21st, 2021, 12:15 pm
Location: South Eastern MA
Grass Type: TTTF
Lawn Size: 20000-1 acre
Level: Novice

Re: 20k Reno Soil Test

Post by San » July 20th, 2021, 1:42 am

After reading up on the fall nitrogen regiment, I better understand what you are talking about.

To match this up with my dates, with seed down on August 15th, I’m estimating it will be around September 15th for sprout and pout to end. Which leaves me about 10 days to the average first frost date in my area.

This means I will have to skip the early fall part of the fall nitrogen regiment.

I’m thinking to apply fast release nitrogen at 0.25lbs/k weekly after s&p ends, for about 3 weeks, depending on available time after s&p and weather (figuring the aggressive 0.5lbs/k per week, might be a bit much for new grass).

And after that monitor for stoppage, and apply the winterize 1lbs/k of fast release in 2 servings of 0.5lbs/k 1 week apart.
Doubling the application rate as there is now less risk of burning, but it’s still new grass.

Does this sound like a good plan?

One extra question, just to be sure, in your earlier recommendations, I’m assuming with 2lbs/k, you are referring to the granular product weight, not the amount of Nitrogen and Potassium?

User avatar
andy10917
Posts: 29520
Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
Location: NY (Lower Hudson Valley)
Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
Lawn Size: 1 acre-2 acre
Level: Advanced

Re: 20k Reno Soil Test

Post by andy10917 » July 20th, 2021, 7:45 am

Correct on all points. Just don't try to force this into a pre-planned schedule - every Fall is different and you need to concentrate on what is happening this Fall, not what the calendar says...

San
Posts: 16
Joined: June 21st, 2021, 12:15 pm
Location: South Eastern MA
Grass Type: TTTF
Lawn Size: 20000-1 acre
Level: Novice

Re: 20k Reno Soil Test

Post by San » July 20th, 2021, 7:50 am

I got you, as per the other post, rough dates and then just look out the window.

Thanks again for all the support!

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest