WI Soil Test

[micvog]

A few weeks back I posted my soil test results (http://aroundtheyard.com/soil/soil-test-t11062.html) and was asked to resubmit the request with results from Logan Labs. Key points from my first post were:

* the grass is a custom local mix of 25% Rye, 25% Fescue and 50% Blue
* lawn was seeded in 2010, had rust fungus in 2011 at which time I hired a service that aggressively applied synthetic products, and I started the Scott's 4-step program in 2012 but stopped half-way through at the suggestion of my landscaper
* I switched to an organic program this year and have put down the first two steps of Espoma's 4-step "organic lawn food" (CGM first and chicken parts/manure next) and a 1.5x bag rate application of Milorganite (which, living in Wisconsin I can get virtually anytime I want for $5.99/bag).
* I tried a reel lawn mower with no luck (my grass is too floppy) but my lawn service has started mulching and is cutting the grass at 3"

So, here we go...

I had Logan Labs do a soil analysis...


.. and a physical analysis.


My current plan is to use the remaining two steps of the Espoma program in the late summer and fall, as well as a few treatments of clear shampoo and molasses once we get some rain (my soil is extremely hard and I had large cracks during last year's drought).

Apart from the lawn/soil, the biggest challenge I am working around is relying on Mother Nature for watering. For 9K square feet, our water pressure and costs, supplemental watering is difficult.

Thanks for the help!

[andy10917]

Do you have any knowledge of the geological history of your area? That's an interesting soil composition...

[Barley]

Two more questions: Are you willing to tell us exactly where in WI you are? And, did you take the samples at 4" or 6" (and what did the soil test say the depth was)?

[micvog]

I am in Fond du Lac which as I understand it is built on top of limestone. I couldn't tell you much more about the history, but I will ask around (I am not a native).

The soil test results said the sample was at 6" but it was actually 3.5"-4.0".

Thanks!

EDIT: Talked to my father-in-law, who is a native, and he confirmed that I am on top of a limestone deposit. He also said - which I pass on only reluctantly - that our soil is "pretty much clay" which he believes causes the hardness/cracking when the soil dries out. Lastly, we are near the Kettle Moraine which was created by glacier activity however many thousands of years ago. That's what I have for geological history.

[Barley]

Ha! You should show the physical analysis to your father-in-law. Your soil is "pretty much silt". A coincidence that "Fond Du Lac" means "Bottom of the Lake" en francais?

[ Post made via Android ]

[andy10917]

That's exactly why I asked - it looks like Alluvial Plain soil...

[micvog]

Does that mean I don't need to worry about applying BL Kelp Help?

BTW, the locals prefer "foot of the lake".

[ Post made via iPhone ]

[Barley]

Micvog, I'm also a non-native Wisconsinite. I'm still trying to figure out the cheese drawer and bubblers. But something I AM familiar with in this state is high pH and high magnesium levels. The Mg is most probably the cause of your hard soil and cracking. The best thing to displace magnesium in the soil is calcium, but you have a boat load of that too, so we don't want to address one excess by causing another. So, you learn to live with the Mg in the soil, and seek alternative ways to address the tightness and cracking. The best thing you can do is feed organically ($5.99 Milorganite should be a staple), and use shampoo or the BL Soil Conditioner and Kelp Help plus Humates. Looks like you are doing that. Keep it up!

On to the things that need addressing that you CAN do something about:

Phosphorus needs a boost. Check with your Co-op to see if they have any Mono Ammonium Phosphate (11-52-0). If not, try to find a high-K starter fertilizer like Lesco 18-24-12 (found at Home Depot or John Deere Landscapes). Let me know what you find for a P source and I'll work up a plan.

Potassium needs a boost too. See if the Co-op has Potassium Sulfate (0-0-50, Sulfate of Potash). Don't let them talk you into 0-0-60, Muriate of Potash, Potassium Chloride. I'll give you the amounts to apply once we figure out what you are going to use for the P (the starter already has K in it, so you'll need less of the 0-0-50 if you use it).

In the micros, Boron could go up a tad (and maybe Zinc). Andy will confirm and get you going on that.

Your OM% looks good! Keep up with the organic regimen and employ good cultural practices to maintain.

[andy10917]

Boron and Zinc need to be supplemented. Get a box of Twenty Mule Team Laundry Soap from the grocery, and 1 lb of Zinc Sulfate from EBAY. Ping me for application rates when you have them.

[micvog]

Thanks @Barley and @andy10917! I know of one coop in FDL (AgriLand) so I am going to stop by today after work. Otherwise, we have friends and family in Madison and Milwaukee so we are generally all over. Barley, do you have a recommended source in southern WI? Andy, I will pick up the soap and order the zinc sulfate this weekend and ping you once I have it.

Does the soil composition (clay, silt, sand) need to be addressed, or is it something I live with... something that gets fixed over time by the use of organic fertilizer... etc.?

Thanks again for your time. This is incredibly valuable assistance.

EDIT: Just noting, in case I forget, that I have already bought my winterizer and it includes potash. It is the Espoma Fall Winterizer 8-0-5 and is 5% soluble potash and I have 60# for my lot.

[andy10917]

Does the soil composition (clay, silt, sand) need to be addressed, or is it something I live with... something that gets fixed over time by the use of organic fertilizer... etc.?

You got dealt alluvial soil and you want to change it? Do you rip up winning lottery tickets, too?

Alluvial soil is great, as long as you recognize that it can be a little slow to drain, and a little more difficult to work with.

With that soil, I expect to see a Showcase Lawn by tomorrow. Please post the pictures proving that it happened...

[micvog]

Oops... never would believed I was lucky to have my soil! I will post before/after pics at the end of Fall.

@Barley... I found the Mono Ammonium Phosphate (11-52-0) and Potassium Sulfate (0-0-50) online. Hopefully I can find it locally, but its available just in case. How much am I looking for?

[Barley]

@Barley... I found the Mono Ammonium Phosphate (11-52-0) and Potassium Sulfate (0-0-50) online. Hopefully I can find it locally, but its available just in case. How much am I looking for?

I have a local source for what you need, and it's most likely much cheaper than what you can find online. I just didn't think you'd be willing to make the drive. Frank's Organic Feed in Jefferson. Call Joe (don't email him...his email is down) and make sure he has the MAP and SOP in stock. If not, he will order it for you and have it available within a week or so.

For this year, for 9,000 sq. ft., you'll need a 50 lb bag of each. Apply 2 lbs/k of each in late August when the heat breaks, then again in late September and late October. You'll most probably need more P and K next year, so if you want you can buy an extra bag of each for use next year. If you do that, I'd be comfortable with you applying 2 lbs/k of the MAP around Memorial Day (1 application), and the SOP at 2 lbs/ K in April and May (2 applications). Retest around this time next year.

Your winterizer application is fine and won't interfere with the plan. However, I do question the effectiveness of organics as a winterizer application. The microbes that make organic fertilization effective are not very active in late November. Consider using Ammonium Sulfate (also available at Frank's) as your winterizer application. If you decide to use that, apply at 5 lbs/k (so you'll need 1 bag for 9,000 sq. ft.).

[micvog]

@Barley - looks like there is a drive to Jefferson in my future.

The closest AgriLand could come was 12-40-0 fertilizer ($20 for 50#) that was "10% sulfur and 1% zinc" and "white potash" 0-0-62 ($18 for 50#).

[andy10917]

0-0-62 is Potassium Chloride -- not favored as it's harsh to microbial life.

[micvog]

Ok... I have the 11-52-0 and 0-0-50 for this year and will apply according to Barley's schedule. I plan on sticking with my current winterizer but will probably put it down earlier and look into the Ammonium Sulfate next year.

My wife picked up the 20 Mule Team today and the zinc is on order... Andy, can you let me know the application rates?

Lastly, do I need to space the timing of applications of the clear shampoo and any of the above?

Thanks.

[Barley]

I don't think the shampoo will interfere with anything. Try to time it all for before a rainfall or irrigate well.

[ Post made via Android ]

[micvog]

@Andy... Ready for the Zinc and Borax application rates and timing when you are. The Zinc is "Zinc Sulfate Monohydrate 35.5%". Thanks!

[ Post made via iPhone ]

[andy10917]

Two tablespoons each of the Mules and Zinc Sulfate, per 1000sq ft. Read the Micronutrient Application Guide for application specifics.

[teaggs]

Two tablespoons each of the Mules and Zinc Sulfate, per 1000sq ft. Read the Micronutrient Application Guide for application specifics.

where can I find the micro nutrient application guide? I will need it here soon once I post my soil test and wanted to get a head start. Thanks

[ Post made via Android ]