FSL's Soil Test Results - 2014

[fsl]

This is the first time ever I have got soil tests done professionally and I am having quite a few. In the future I may not have that many. Cordial thanks to the soil experts in advance!

Description

Lawn soil samples (1-4) were taken from 4" deep. Raised bed soil sample (5) was taken from 6" deep. More than 6 samples were taken for each test. Nothing was added to the soil since last fall.

1/SKFS1: Front Lawn Street Side, 1000 sf.
2/SKFH2: Front Lawn House Side, 900 sf. For reference only, and no need for interpretation.
3/SKBW3: Back Lawn Sub Soil Section, 600 sf.
4/SKBG4: Back Lawn "Proper", 1900 sf.
5/SKBR5: Raised Bed, planning for vegetables, 400 sf.
6/SKFG6: Flower Garden: roses, hydrangeas etc. This is a place holder for a future soil test to be done soon (I kind of forgot this patch 2 weeks ago).

Full Story

The lawns etc. were neglected by the previous owner for years (I suspect only mowing was done). I half renovated and half overseeded (strange but true) the Front Lawn Street Side last fall before I found this forum. The grass is going along although I am having some broadleaf weed pressure which I am going to address soon (spray this weedend). The Front Lawn House Side couldn't be renovated/overseeded last fall because of some house project at that time.

I think the Street Side and House Side soils are similar, just that the Street Side has grass on it now and also last fall I did starter fertilizer, milorganite, and winterization to the Street Side. So for interpretation purpose, please just use 1/SKFS1 and assume the area is 1900 sf. I include the 2/SKFH2 soil test result just for reference purpose, in case it is useful to show what differences renovation/overseed and fertilizers would make to the same soil. I'll do similar fertilizer additions to the House Side pretty soon (strange but true again, I'll drop seeds on the house side this weekend. Yes, I know. In the worst case I'll just do it over again this or next fall.)

The back lawn has a planned renovation this fall. However, part of it was digged out to do some work to the drywell, and now that section (3/SKBW3) is mostly brown sub soil. I do plan to add lots of organic matter for a start (tilling in compost since it isn't that big an area). The rest (4/SKBG4) is the "proper" back lawn, which is currently occupied by moss, weeds, and a few fine fescues! I understand 3 and 4 are the most problematic for me at the moment, but I do have patience

Some comments on 5 the raised bed soil would be appreciated as well.

I have yet to do 6. I'll get it done pretty soon.

Soil Test Results

1/SKFS1: Front Lawn Street Side, 1000 sf.



2/SKFH2: Front Lawn House Side, 900 sf. For reference only, and no need for interpretation.



3/SKBW3: Back Lawn Sub Soil Section, 600 sf.



4/SKBG4: Back Lawn "Proper", 1900 sf.



5/SKBR5: Raised Bed, planning for vegetables, 400 sf.



Thanks and take your time!

[andy10917]

Your multiple tests demonstrate everything that is wrong with the UMASS tests, and why I'm considering dropping them as a recommended soil test lab (we'd pick someone else, I'm not going to push everyone to a single lab). The "optimum ranges" are identical no matter what the TEC/CEC is. And the recommendations they provide are mechanical and stupid.

There is a lot of work here, with all of those tests. Please give me a priority order of which ones you require first, and whether you really want to be doing different regimens on areas as small as 600 sq ft. Don't despair, this will but done before today is done if I get the answers before dinnertime...

[fsl]

Hi, Andy,

Didn't see your post till now. I was doing the Front Lawn House Side today and got inside the house 8:30pm dog tired. Still I only threw down half of the peat moss before I couldn't see it in the dark. Will finish it early tomorrow morning before going to work.

Sorry for the trouble of the soil tests (both the number of tests and the UMass quirks I wasn't aware of). I'll finish test 6 in UMass as planned (mostly for my own reference). However, I'll do future tests through Logan Labs now that I know (e.g. next year).

I think the highest priority for me is 4/Back Lawn "Proper". And the next one is 1/Front Lawn Street Side. As mentioned before, please just ignore 2/Front Lawn House Side.

For 3/Back Lawn Sub Soil Section (600 sq ft), I really don't know what's better: do it separately, or just till in compost and do the obvious (starter fertilizer, some balanced fertilizers, heavy milorganite, heavy other organic matters whenever I get a chance) and give it time. I am willing to do it separately if you recommend so.

For 5/Raised Bed, I kind of just expect some simple stuff, like "this soil is good for vegetables", and/or "add some of this gradually", instead of detailed instructions up to the teaspoons to save your time. You guys are providing free and much better and more professional advice than paid ones because you like it as a hobby, which really is a commended act!

Also, really feel free to take your time. If I can get replies within a month, I'd be happy.

Thanks!

[andy10917]

Back Lawn Proper

The CEC of roughly 11 and the OM% of 5.5 are good. This soil is right down the middle of the Loamy category. The density is interesting in that it is low for a soil of that type - not bad though, just a lighter soil.

Unfortunately, the soil isn't holding a ton of nutrients. Almost all of the major nutrients are short. Yes, even the Magnesium that they say is Optimal. This results in a pH of only 5.7.

To start your program for this area, you're definitely going to need good Calcitic Lime (Mag-I-Cal/Encap/Pennington). You'll be applying it at 9 lbs/K now, in 90 days, and 90 days after that. The first two applications should have 1 lb/K of Epsom Salts mixed in also.

You need to make a decision about either using a "balanced fertilizer" regimen (which is harsher), or do it the best way and have to perform a scavenger hunt for Sulfate Of Potash ("SOP") and Triple Superphosphate ("TSP"). Your call...

Iron is good at your current pH. In the micro's, it's Boron and Copper -- are they in the 2014 plan?

Overall, this soil should respond well to a higher-input regimen...

[fsl]

Thanks Andy! Good to know that soil isn't hopeless!

I'll do Mag-I-Cal every 3 months for a total of 3 times this year starting from now, and also add Epsom Salts with the first 2 applications.

I'll do it the best way (will buy SOP and TSP). This applies to other test results as well.

I'll do the micro's this year (again applies to other test results).

One question: When I drop the calcium/magnesium/P/K/micros, do I just drop them directly on the current weeds/moss/fescues (and water them in) before the fall renovation, or should I kill them or at least remove the moss and expose bare soil and/or also kill the weeds before application?

Thanks!

[fsl]

Hi, Andy,

Could you please let me know how much to apply the SOP/TSP/Boron/Copper for the 'Back Lawn Proper'? I think I finally get to a stage I can do something to it in the next week or so.

Also if it is possible, I'd like to change the priority from 'Back Lawn'->'Front Lawn'->'Subsoil Section' to 'Back Lawn'->'Subsoil Section'->'Front Lawn'.

Thanks!

[fsl]

I also got the soil tests done for the flower garden and a side strip.

For 6/Flower Garden, I am just looking for some simple advice (as for 5/Raised Bed) and they are low priority. For 7/Side Strip, please ignore it for interpretation as I don't plan to plant anything yet. I add it here just for my own record (all 2014 soil tests in one place).

6/SKFG6: Flower Garden: roses, hydrangeas etc. 300 sf.



7/SKSD7: Side Strip. 700 sf.



Thanks!

[mattya]

The flower garden and raised bed soils look quite nice, although lacking potassium. OM is great, TEC is in a very nice range and Ca/Mg look to be in a good range.

Andy may want to dive into more detail for you, but I figured I'd give a quick read and let you know you can plan to be applying SOP to those areas.

[fsl]

Thanks Mattya! Good to know that the soil in those two areas aren't that bad. Sure, I'll add some SOP there over time.