Dale's Soil Test for Front and Back Yard - 2016

[Pete1313]

Your recommendation calls for 2lbs per 1000 sq ft of a high phosphorus source such as monoammonium phosphate(MAP) or equivalent. The recommendation will deliver 1 lb per 1000 sq ft of actual phosphorus. So if you pick up MAP 11-52-0, you would use ~16lbs of it to cover 8,000 sq ft this fall and have enough left over for 2 applications next year if needed and suggested by ST6.

PS- sorry ST6, let me know if I'm out of line for clarifying test recommendations. I just wanted to give a quick answer to the OP

[DTockeII]

That was my confusion, I wasn't sure if they meant 2 lbs of 100% phosphorus which would double my application closer to the 30lbs I was thinking, or what you figured on which is indeed half because of the 52% rating of the MAP

[g-man]

DTockell:

First the recommendation is to apply 1lb of P per 1000 sqft and not 2 lbs of P per K. For the product you listed, 11-52-0, 50% of the weight is P. You will need to apply 2lb of 11-52-0 per K. For a 8k yard, you will need to apply 16lb (2lb * 8ksqft) of 11-52-0 per month. One 50lb bag should be enough for 3 applications (3 months).

[Billy]

Your recommendation calls for 2lbs per 1000 sq ft of a high phosphorus source such as monoammonium phosphate(MAP) or equivalent. The recommendation will deliver 1 lb per 1000 sq ft of actual phosphorus.

I don't think this is quite right. The middle number on a fertilizer analysis is P2O5 (a form of phosphate), not elemental P. The P2O5 figure is only about 44% elemental P. So, that 11-52-0 is not 52% p by weight, but is actually 22.9% P by weight.

What's important here is knowing what units your recommendation is in and being consistent. If the recommendation was to apply x# P/M, then it sounds like it should mean elemental P. If it said to apply x# P2O5/M, that sounds like it would be the one that corresponds directly with the analysis on the bag.

[ Post made via iPhone ]

[Pete1313]

Your recommendation calls for 2lbs per 1000 sq ft of a high phosphorus source such as monoammonium phosphate(MAP) or equivalent. The recommendation will deliver 1 lb per 1000 sq ft of actual phosphorus.

I don't think this is quite right. The middle number on a fertilizer analysis is P2O5 (a form of phosphate), not elemental P. The P2O5 figure is only about 44% elemental P. So, that 11-52-0 is not 52% p by weight, but is actually 22.9% P by weight.

What's important here is knowing what units your recommendation is in and being consistent. If the recommendation was to apply x# P/M, then it sounds like it should mean elemental P. If it said to apply x# P2O5/M, that sounds like it would be the one that corresponds directly with the analysis on the bag.

[ Post made via iPhone ]

You are correct Billy, thanks for simplifying it...

2 lbs/M of MAP 11-52-0 or
1 lb/M of P2O5
... look better?

Or would you prefer 1.9230769231 lbs/M of MAP 11-52-0 to deliver 1lb/M of P2O5?

[ Post made via Android ]

[Billy]

I like simplification

The point is to make sure that the recommendation and the application match. If we get the terms mixed up, we could end up either not applying enough or applying way too much.

[ Post made via iPhone ]

[DTockeII]

DTockell:

First the recommendation is to apply 1lb of P per 1000 sqft and not 2 lbs of P per K. For the product you listed, 11-52-0, 50% of the weight is P. You will need to apply 2lb of 11-52-0 per K. For a 8k yard, you will need to apply 16lb (2lb * 8ksqft) of 11-52-0 per month. One 50lb bag should be enough for 3 applications (3 months).

Thanks g-man, I'm new to measuring out this stuff, so I appreciate the clarification!

[DTockeII]

Bumping up for 2017 planning. Going to stick with the recommended Milo applications and was thinking of getting some of the MAP for applying now (never got around to it last year), along with my first application of Milo.

Would a sulphur appication to slightly lower ph be recommended at this point, or is that not worth chasing.

Anything to add?

[andy10917]

Make sure to put a Link in the Soil Test Interpretation Queue, so you have a place in line

[DTockeII]

will do, thanks

[HoosierLawnGnome]

OK - a plan for the rest of this year.

Source a balanced fertilizer like 12-12-12 or 18-18-18, etc. Post the NPK here for application rates. Brands don't really matter here. We'll be dropping this quite a bit this year

We can also make use of any leftover MAP you may have

[DTockeII]

Thanks HLG! I'll take a look around, if you have any suggestions let me know too? Never did buy the MAP so we'll be starting from scratch. Only fert I've put down so far is Milorganite. I'll report back with my local findings.

[DTockeII]

Some quick thoughts/questions:

Does synthetic vs organic matter here? Slow vs fast release?
Finally, does this balanced fert also help out the ph leaning alkaline, if not, is that a concern?

Thanks again!

[andy10917]

Does synthetic vs organic matter here?

In general, we try to keep costs down and the overall complexity low in the early going. While there is no bias at all against organics, they just take longer and involve larger quantities of material, as organics are generally not as nutrient-dense as manufactured products. In a remineralization effort, we try to get members well on the way in a reasonable timeframe, and then finish/polish the effort more slowly with whatever approach the OP prefers.

Slow vs fast release?

Fast-release is generally cheaper and allows more applications per season.

Finally, does this balanced fert also help out the ph leaning alkaline, if not, is that a concern?

No. Some fertilizers can have a slight acidic effect, but (a) they generally aren't strong enough to affect your pH test in a single season and they're temporary in effect, and (b) there are no balanced fertilizers that do that and are available in local stores. Typically, lawn fertilizers are not used to control cations (and therefore indirectly, pH).

[DTockeII]

Great, thanks again. Found that 10-10-10 is most readily available for me. (40 lbs bags at Home Depot for $14 each)

[DTockeII]

Also found 13-13-13 and 17-17-17 at Conserv FS near me, didn't get pricing though, but the bags are 50 lbs and seem to show more coverage (17-17-17 says 8,500 sq ft)

13-13-13: Nitrogen source is 13% Ammonical, Phosphorous Source is DAP, Potassium Source is MOP
17-17-17: Nitrogen source is 2.25% Urea, 6.66% AMM, 2.21% WIN, 6.57% SAWSN and 3.4% AMS, Phosphorous Source is DAP, Potassium Source is MOP, and says it is a 60% MESA slow release

I have no clue what these mean but since they're likely more complex than the 10-10-10 available at Home Depot, wanted to provide all info I have. I'm thinking the 10-10-10 from the Depot is the best option for me, but let me know.

[DTockeII]

Here is a link to their catalog:
http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/1b6 ... b61f1ed/40

[andy10917]

Also found 13-13-13 and 17-17-17 at Conserv FS near me, didn't get pricing though, but the bags are 50 lbs and seem to show more coverage (17-17-17 says 8,500 sq ft)

No magic - when the NPK numbers go up, the density of the nutrients go up and the coverage is higher.

The formulas are:

Amount needed for 1 lb/K per nutrient for 1,000 sf: (100/17) = 5.88 lbs
Amount of square footage in 50 lb bag: (50/5.88) * 1000 = 8,503 sq ft

[DTockeII]

Thanks Andy, so if I translate to the 10/10/10 40 lbs bags I found at HD:

Amount needed for 1 lb/K per nutrient for 1,000 sf: (100/10) = 10 lbs
Amount of square footage in 40 lb bag: (40/10) * 1000 = 4,000 sq ft

So I'd need two bags for my approximately 8,000 sq ft lawn, per application.

What would the application schedule look like for the year? I know HLG mentioned "dropping quite a bit this year", but when should I start given that I applied Milo on the 15th of April and how often do I re-apply?

Thanks again!

[HoosierLawnGnome]

Allrighty - I had a long night working on my renovation last evening - back now.

Apply the 10-10-10 @ 10 lbs / K now, around Memorial Day, late August when it's no longer dormant, and September. This will help with the P and K levels.

Apply milorganite as the budget allows - monthly would be good as long as the turf isn't dormant. Put it down a few weeks from the balanced fertilizer too - it has N - don't want to overload N.

Keep mulching leaves and grass when appropriate - your OM level is pretty good as it is.