I know Andy's mostly down for the interim, so I'll handle this one. Warning, I tend to wing the trace elements (except boron and iron), so my interpretation is a bit more loose there.
I know you know this stuff, but for my first one back here, I'll do the full read just for fun.
Overall: This is a great soil test and a nearly optimal soil. Your lawn, as we know, looks great, so it's definitely benefiting from all the work you've done here. I only made one minor adjustment and gave you two optional things to do below (and the optional ones are really, really optional, don't bother if you don't want to).
ME 8.8: A nice number, and given your locale probably silt with some sand in it (it could vary, of course, but it doesn't matter that much). Your soil adjusts fairly easily and you'll want to keep an eye on it once stabilized every two, three, four years or so. You're pretty much stabilized.
pH 6.3: By common wisdom, this is a hair low...but it's really fine and your ion balances show a good soil. There's no reason to be concerned about this and my soil actually balances lower at 6.2.
OM 7.7%: Somewhere between excellent and phenomenal.
There's no specific reason for you to add more OM, although it certainly won't hurt you at this range to feed organically and mow your fall leaves.
Sulfur 10: Within normal range and a perfectly good answer. Decay of OM will release small amounts of S for your plants, usually in the sulfate ion form. You won't have any shortages.
Phosphorus 231: Perfect. Target would be 200, the extra 31 just gives you some extra to work with. No P is required or desired, but you don't have to avoid incidental P sources.
Calcium 63.8%: Perfect. That -99 deficit really isn't important, but if you wanted to kick in a little bit of Ca, I wouldn't object. If you ignore it, I wouldn't object. Optional recommendation below. We use Encap, or Mag-I-Cal to change this. I'm also OK with Pennington Fast Lime. Slower calcitic limes (larger grind size) would also be acceptable in your case since you don't have any problems, we'd just nudge this.
Magnesium 14.6%: Within normal range. Higher Mg levels can make soils tight and hard to dig, but this really isn't out of range. Regardless, we don't want to add any more, and I was half thinking of a bit of gypsum above to dispel some Mg. I wouldn't complain if somebody recommended that instead, but your Mg levels are really just fine.
Potassium 5.3%: I'm a fan of higher potassium levels, so for me this is normal. Technically, it's a tad high, but that won't present any problems for you. Higher K levels enhance temperature resistance, disease resistance, and insect resistance.
Minor Elements: Boron is a tad low, but it's relatively minor. Still, I recommend correction. Iron is good, but if you want to use Milo to raise this, more power to you. The other elements are within reasonable range.
Boron: While not the most important element, I'll always work to move your lawn into the most optimal range on everything. Me? I'd fix this. We use Milorganite as a carrier and 20 Mule Team Borax as the boron source. You can purchase 20 Mules at the grocery store in the laundry section. In a wheelbarrow or the like, dump the Milo. Spraying very, very lightly with water (I use a spray bottle like the kind people use to damp their clothes when they iron) will help the boron stick. Add the recommended amount of 20 Mule Team Borax and stir, spraying occasionally to get the stuff to stick to the Milo. Then apply over the recommended area. So if going for bag rate Milorganite (1 bag per 2,500 square feet), you'd add 10 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax.
Recommendations:
April 15, 2017: (Optional) If you wish, apply 2 pounds of Encap, Mag-I-Cal, or Pennington Fast Lime per thousand square feet.
May 1, 2017: Apply 4 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax in Milorganite carrier per thousand square feet.
October 15, 2017: (Optional) If you wish, apply 2 pounds of Encap, Mag-I-Cal, or Pennington Fast Lime per thousand square feet.
