Scott's Soil Test Results - 2017

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GreatScott
Posts: 2
Joined: July 7th, 2016, 10:57 am
Location: Rosemount, MN
Grass Type: Northern Mix
Lawn Size: Not Specified
Level: Not Specified

Scott's Soil Test Results - 2017

Post by GreatScott » May 24th, 2017, 6:15 pm

Hey Everyone!

I wanted to get in the queue. I have been reading a lot of good stuff on this site after being recommended here from my boss.

My lawn is about 10,000 SQ feet located in a suburb of the Twin Cities (MN), Rosemount. I live in a newer development with sandy soil especially when digging below 4"-6". I have a northern perennial blend of fine fescue, Kentucky blue, and Perennial Rye. I mow every 5-7 days, keep my grass about 3.5 inches tall and have the ability to water when needed since I have irrigation. I use about 4 applications a year of milo, and a shot of urea late fall (November). I have a few problematic areas where grass isn't very thick or lush, I also have a few spots with clover and crabgrass. I am a lawn nut and enjoy having the greenest and thickest lawn in the neighborhood. I would prefer the best approach to treating my soil type.
I will do my best to respond to the thread with questions, but I will be out of the country with limited internet access until June 6th. I appreciate the help and love the forum.

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HoosierLawnGnome
Posts: 9591
Joined: May 22nd, 2013, 5:59 pm
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Grass Type: Blueberry KBG
Lawn Size: 1 acre-2 acre
Level: Advanced

Re: Scott's Soil Test Results - 2017

Post by HoosierLawnGnome » June 7th, 2017, 12:51 pm

Welcome to the site, Scott!

Start another thread for weed treatment advice of course - we focus on soil here :)

You've asked for the best approach, so I'll give you more advanced recommendations - which means more work finding the right materials.

You'll have to wait on andy for micronutrient analysis.

On to the soil.

I assume you did two tests - one with the AA one without on the same soil. I don't think you need the AA test in the future. Your soil doesn't seem calcerous, in spite of your area's reputation for having it at times. The TEC of 9.24 shows a nice loam that is neither too sandy and not overly heavy. This is good.

Your organic matter level is poor. Keep mulch mowing, mulching leaves and adding free sources - it takes many thousands of lbs of material per K to raise it noticeably over time.

In the major cations, you have ample Calcium (Ca) and Magnesium (Mg), but are short on Potassium (K). The ratio is out of line, and your K level is low. So, we need to source some K in a way that minimizes the uptick on your pH. The pH is just something to note and live with.

The Phosphorus (P) level is likewise low - we will work on that too.

Iron isn't bad, but your pH makes using it quite problematic. So, we'll keep using milorganite for that - the Iron behaves in such a way that the grass can use it before it is bound up the soil.

So - what materials would I recommend? Try looking wherever you get urea first, but you'll need to find these at a farm co-op, or garden specialty type store. On 10K, this is worth some time finding the best price.

Source urea (46-0-0) for N, Sulfate of Potash (SOP 0-0-50 NOT muriate of potash or MOP 0-0-60) for K, Monoammonsium Phosphate (MAP 11-52-0) or Triple Superphosphate (TSP 0-45-0) for P, and of course - milorganite!

June, July, Aug- 2 lbs / K MAP or TSP, 2 lbs / K SOP
Sept, October - 2 lbs / K MAP or TSP
November - 2 lbs / K urea when top growth stops but roots still growing
Apply milorganite to get the color you want - bag rate monthly is a fair guideline.

That leaves a Nitrogen program. Apply most N in fall, and use urea. Read up on the aggressive fall Nitrogen program, which is basically applying small doses of urea regularly every week in the height of the fall growth season. Put down 2 lbs / K urea now (if you haven't applied synthetic N in the last month) - then hold off on synthetic N until the heat breaks late summer.

Watch how much Nitrogen you put down with milorganite - space those apps out. And, adjust how much Nitrogen you apply if you end up using MAP instead of TSP as a 2 lbs / K application of MAP will apply .22 lbs of N. Use less urea then.

Make sure to water those fertilizer applications in with natural rainfall or your irrigation system :)

GreatScott
Posts: 2
Joined: July 7th, 2016, 10:57 am
Location: Rosemount, MN
Grass Type: Northern Mix
Lawn Size: Not Specified
Level: Not Specified

Re: Scott's Soil Test Results - 2017

Post by GreatScott » June 12th, 2017, 3:42 pm

Thanks for the recommendations! Just to clarify, I should put down Urea now, as in here in June? I haven't put down any synthetic Nitrogen this year.

Also, how often should I be doing the K MAP or TSP applications? Every month through October? what would you recommend?

Thanks again for your help!
Scott

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