cmcgill soil test 2017

[cmcgill]

Okay, so here's my soil test.



Yard is around 25K sq ft. in Greenwood, IN. Yard seems fairly sandy and it dries out quickly. That being said, I really only water when absolutely necessary. I mulch mow around 3.5 or higher, mulch all the leaves I can, and use BLKH at least monthly (sometimes more).

Northern mix with spots of clover, violets, dandelions, spurge, crabgrass, and other assorted weeds. Started spraying dandelions this year (2, 4-D). Fairly thick in some areas and somewhat thin in others. Dealt with grubs last year, expect the same again.

Last year I had rust in the fall. Battled red thread the past 2 years (only lived here 2 years). Brown spots - not sure what it is/was.

Last year I used milorganite at bag rate+. I seeded in the fall but battled rust with watering. This year I've put down almost 1500 lbs. of grains (cracked corn, alfalfa, rabbit food, catfish food) and bag rate of Screamin' Green (1x).

I plan on trying to overseed again this fall, at least in the thinner spots.

Goals: thick yard, weed out weeds (not concerned about clover), all as naturally as possible. I have kids and a growing garden.

Thanks in advance for the suggestions!

[andy10917]

The soil may seem pretty sandy, but it's actually a beautiful medium Loam at the test depth. The OM% is just short of where I start to say "that's OK" - keep adding OM wherever you can (free stuff is best!).

The cations are a little high for Calcium and very high for Magnesium. The Potassium is is moderately short. The end result of the cation mix is a pH of 7.8 which is high but not the end of the world.

Since the Phosphorus and Potassium are both low, the easy way to get them moving in the right direction is to apply a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10 or 19-19-19. Pick one and post the NPK for app rates and frequency, but be aware that Potassium apps end in September for your area. You'll switch to one of the Fall Nitrogen regimens then.

Your Iron is low, and at your pH isn't really available anyway. Using Milorganite as one of your Nitrogen sources can help with that, as well as reading about and applying foliar FAS.

In the micronutrients, the Boron is short - do you wish to correct that this year?

If you wish to try to begin addressing the Magnesium imbalance and also move the very-low Sulfur number in the right direction, get and apply Gypsum at the rate on the bag, every 90 days. It won't be a quick fix by any means, but the soil will move in the right direction over time (and Sulfur will rise).

[cmcgill]

Thanks!

How do you tell it's a medium loam from the numbers?

Is there a particular number you are looking for with the micros or is it in relation to the other elements?

Tell me more about potassium apps ending in September. Maybe a simple question, but why?

What do I need to do with the Boron?

Let's aim for the 12-12-12 (I can get others if it's important). I guess I will need to suck it up and water if I'm going to do that - or find a very rainy day to apply and hope for the best timing.

I was planning on putting out some milo this summer/fall and some starter with an overseed of thinner spots.

I will look into the foliar FAS and gypsum.

[andy10917]

For 12-12-12, apply monthly at 8 lbs/K until you switch to one of the Fall Nitrogen Regimens.

Potassium applications are not recommended after September because there have been a couple of studies that indicate that Snow Mold likelihood increases with late-season Potassium applications.

Read the Micronutrient Application Guide. Get a box of Twenty Mule Team Laundry Soap from the grocery and apply at 3 tablespoons/K every 60 days.