kellytroym_soil_test

[kellytroym]

Hi,

Attached is my soil test. I had the front and back tested separately as I do not have irrigation in the back, but do in the front. This year, other than irrigation, both front and back have been treated the same.

I'm looking for the best approach.

Front Square Footage = 7k
Back Square Fooptage = 30k

Thanks,
Troy

[kellytroym]

Checking in...do you require any additional info?

[HoosierLawnGnome]

Holy sandy soil, batman!

On 3/4 of an acre, things can start to get pricey, so you'd do well to shop around.

That is some sandiness right there with that TEC of 2.51 and 3.63 respectively. The back looks a bit better than the back in that regard, but they are similar enough I'd just do one test going forward unless you see obvious visual differences.

The OM level is helping you out considerably here, since the OM levels are almost good (in the front) to very, very good in the back - and the TEC is better according to the better OM level in the back. So, the soil may have even fewer exchange sites than showing in that TEC. The OM is your strongest asset - so keep mulching leaves this fall, mulch mowing when you don't have disease.

Your major cations are all deficient. These shortages are probably mostly to blame for your acidic soil (pH 5.0) The high aluminum level you have in both zones is also a problem, given your acidic soil - and isn't helping. High aluminum levels at your pH hurt plants (especially roots in turf), so you may need to irrigate more frequently, especially with the sandy soil.

The Phosphorus level is very good in both zones. Don't need to spend money there - but maybe a little help in the front is needed.

Iron is a little low, but not horrible.

So - here's what I recommend.

For a little Phosphorus boost, Iron boost, and to help activate your great OM level - I recommend baystate (local milorganite alternative) at double bag rate now and then at bag rate monthly when the grass has awoken on it's own this coming spring.

Source Sulfate of Potash (SOP 0-0-50). I'd really like to use SOP instead of Muriate of Potash (MOP 0-0-60) as the SOP will play much nicer with the OM teaming with microbes in your soil rather than hurt them. You'll want to find a farmer's supplier, crop supplier for this. Apply SOP now @ 1 lb / K, then in the spring when the ground unfreezes @ 2 lbs / K monthly.

This fall, apply 9 lbs / K of a good calcitic lime (mag-i-cal or encap) mixed with 2 lbs / K epsom salts 2 weeks after the SOP goes down. Start this up again when the ground unfreezes in the spring, every other month. Keep these applications two weeks from other fertilizer applications - especially the SOP.

Winterizing your turf properly will help a lot this coming spring. Apply 2 lbs / K of urea when top growth stops but the roots are still growing, watering it in afterwards.

You can use baystate for most of your nitrogen, but you may want to consider urea too next fall if you aren't getting the results you want.

With the sandy, acidic soil and high aluminum - you may have problems with stunted root growth - and that can affect everything. The major cation additions should address this over time. Best time to test is in the late winter / early spring.

[ken-n-nancy]

For a little Phosphorus boost, Iron boost, and to help activate your great OM level - I recommend baystate (local milorganite alternative) at double bag rate now and then at bag rate monthly when the grass has awoken on it's own this coming spring.

kellytrom, if you haven't made a trip down to Quincy, MA to purchase Bay State Fertilizer before, there's more information on doing so in this thread. Price has been $3.50 for a 40-pound bag if you pick it up yourself for at least the last 5 years. Delivery is also available; more info on that at the "Purchasing" tab at the first link above. It's basically the same stuff as Milorganite, but much less expensive for those of us within driving distance of Quincy, MA. Be sure to call before heading down; they don't have a retail counter; you just pick it up from their loading dock of the manufacturing facility.

Source Sulfate of Potash (SOP 0-0-50). ... You'll want to find a farmer's supplier, crop supplier for this.

If you have trouble finding this right in/near Leominster, I've been purchasing Sulfate of Potash (0-0-50) at Achille Agway of Milford, NH which is probably only about a 45-minute drive from you in tax-free NH. I think the price was around $32 for a 50-pound bag, but I don't remember that for sure. You should call before driving up, though, as they've been getting a pallet each spring at my request, selling a few bags to me, and then selling the rest as long as it lasts through the course of the year. TimmyG's source, which I think is Valley Green, may be closer to you.

[HoosierLawnGnome]

Thanks, Ken-n-Nancy!

[TimmyG]

The Valley Greens in Charlton and Wilmington, MA, appear to be just as far from Leominster as the Achille Agway in Milford, NH. But, you might have other reasons to head in either of those directions, so Valley Green may just be a good option for you. Definitely call ahead before trekking any distance for SOP as stock is never guaranteed.

[kellytroym]

Thank you HooiserLawnGnome, TimmyG, and Ken-n-Nancy.

I have a quick question regarding SOP 0-0-50. I found a place near me that sells 0-0-61 which I believe is Potassium chloride vs Potassium sulfate (0-0-50).

Could I use the 0-0-61 in place of the 0-0-50? If so, how much and how often?

Thanks,
Troy

[TimmyG]

Search these forums for keywords MOP+SOP and author HoosierLawnGnome. Review his plethora of advice regarding MOP vs SOP versus his own practices. Like mine, at some point, cost and availability play a role. For a small lot, consider buying SOP online. For a large lot, cost becomes a major determining factor in choosing to use MOP over SOP.

[kellytroym]

Thanks TimmyG. Well if I just read Hoosier's original post to my soil test a little closer then I would have had my answer

Hoosier explains it here.

"Source Sulfate of Potash (SOP 0-0-50). I'd really like to use SOP instead of Muriate of Potash (MOP 0-0-60) as the SOP will play much nicer with the OM teaming with microbes in your soil rather than hurt them. You'll want to find a farmer's supplier, crop supplier for this. Apply SOP now @ 1 lb / K, then in the spring when the ground unfreezes @ 2 lbs / K monthly."