Rich G Soil Test
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Rich G Soil Test
Here is the Logan Lab results for my front and back yard (not a huge difference but have lots of pine trees in the back so I tested separately).
I am in Southern NH and have a mix of KBG, TTTF and some PR. I have had issues with brown patch and rust in the past.
Overall my lawn looked great this year and I just overseeded with brown patch resistant TTTF from United Seed.
I put a ton of dolomite lime this spring based on my soil test last fall but looks like it is a little low still but not as bad as the calcium.
Looking for recommendations for lime and fert application. I am thinking of trying Milo next year as well as the Lesco I use.
Thanks in advance!
I am in Southern NH and have a mix of KBG, TTTF and some PR. I have had issues with brown patch and rust in the past.
Overall my lawn looked great this year and I just overseeded with brown patch resistant TTTF from United Seed.
I put a ton of dolomite lime this spring based on my soil test last fall but looks like it is a little low still but not as bad as the calcium.
Looking for recommendations for lime and fert application. I am thinking of trying Milo next year as well as the Lesco I use.
Thanks in advance!
- andy10917
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Re: Rich G Soil Test
Make sure to put a link to your test into the Soil Test Interpretation Queue.
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Re: Rich G Soil Test
Also I have around a 9,000 sq ft yard.
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Re: Rich G Soil Test
Any chance someone can take a look at this was hoping to figure out what to put down for lime this fall and start planning my regime for next year
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
- andy10917
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Re: Rich G Soil Test
I have no idea what the pine trees have to do with this, but whatever...
The soil is sandy but has OK OM numbers - more OM would help boost the TEC though. Keep it coming.
In the cations, you have either stay with the dolomitic at bag rates and schedule or switch to calcitic + epsom salts, which may speed things up. Let me know if you want to switch.
Since the Phosphorus is actually high, we need to boost the Potassium individually - get Sulfate of Potash (SOP, 0-0-50) and apply April to September, monthly at 2 lbs/K. Go ahead and use the Milorganite with that as the budget allows.
Iron numbers are fine.
In the micro’s, it’s Boron and Copper. Get Twenty Mule Team Laundry Soap (grocery) and Copper Sulfate (Amazon/EBay), and apply each at three tablespoons/K every 60 days. Read the Micronutrient Application Guide for application specifics.
The soil is sandy but has OK OM numbers - more OM would help boost the TEC though. Keep it coming.
In the cations, you have either stay with the dolomitic at bag rates and schedule or switch to calcitic + epsom salts, which may speed things up. Let me know if you want to switch.
Since the Phosphorus is actually high, we need to boost the Potassium individually - get Sulfate of Potash (SOP, 0-0-50) and apply April to September, monthly at 2 lbs/K. Go ahead and use the Milorganite with that as the budget allows.
Iron numbers are fine.
In the micro’s, it’s Boron and Copper. Get Twenty Mule Team Laundry Soap (grocery) and Copper Sulfate (Amazon/EBay), and apply each at three tablespoons/K every 60 days. Read the Micronutrient Application Guide for application specifics.
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Re: Rich G Soil Test
Thanks Andy much appreciated.andy10917 wrote: ↑October 8th, 2017, 10:12 amI have no idea what the pine trees have to do with this, but whatever...
The soil is sandy but has OK OM numbers - more OM would help boost the TEC though. Keep it coming.
In the cations, you have either stay with the dolomitic at bag rates and schedule or switch to calcitic + epsom salts, which may speed things up. Let me know if you want to switch.
Since the Phosphorus is actually high, we need to boost the Potassium individually - get Sulfate of Potash (SOP, 0-0-50) and apply April to September, monthly at 2 lbs/K. Go ahead and use the Milorganite with that as the budget allows.
Iron numbers are fine.
In the micro’s, it’s Boron and Copper. Get Twenty Mule Team Laundry Soap (grocery) and Copper Sulfate (Amazon/EBay), and apply each at three tablespoons/K every 60 days. Read the Micronutrient Application Guide for application specifics.
I was always under the impression that pine trees and their needles causes more acidic soils.
With the Dolomitic lime will it increase my calcium enough? What does the calcitic and Epsom salts do and what will it speed up?
Can I apply the SOP with my last winter fert? Or wait til April. And can I apply that with my normal fertilizer or should I change that as well?
Will look up the micronutrients info on the site. Seems hard to apply that little amount to my whole yard but will read up on it.
- andy10917
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Re: Rich G Soil Test
You were under the wrong impression then. Old wife's tale - stop listening to old wives (unless they're hot).I was always under the impression that pine trees and their needles causes more acidic soils.
Of course it will, but it will be pushing the Magnesium up too - at the ratio of whatever product you buy.With the Dolomitic lime will it increase my calcium enough?
Calcitic lime lacks the Magnesium. Now we can add it from Epsom Salts (Magnesium Sulfate) at the rate WE want to add it. That's flexibility. Also, top-quality Calcitic Limes (Mag-I-Cal/Sol-U-Cal/Encap) work into the soil in 5-8 weeks, while cheap dolomitic lime can take 12-14 MONTHS. That means more applications in less time and quicker results.What does the calcitic and Epsom salts do and what will it speed up?
Wait until April.Can I apply the SOP with my last winter fert? Or wait til April.
Not enough detail to answer.And can I apply that with my normal fertilizer or should I change that as well?
The article is already written - it's the Micronutrient Application Guide.Will look up the micronutrients info on the site. Seems hard to apply that little amount to my whole yard but will read up on it.
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Re: Rich G Soil Test
I assume I can find the rates for the Epsom salts on the site.andy10917 wrote: ↑October 8th, 2017, 1:20 pm
Calcitic lime lacks the Magnesium. Now we can add it from Epsom Salts (Magnesium Sulfate) at the rate WE want to add it. That's flexibility. Also, top-quality Calcitic Limes (Mag-I-Cal/Sol-U-Cal/Encap) work into the soil in 5-8 weeks, while cheap dolomitic lime can take 12-14 MONTHS. That means more applications in less time and quicker results.
Not enough detail to answerAnd can I apply that with my normal fertilizer or should I change that as well?
To clarify my question on the fertilizer. Can I use the normal spring fertilizer I use with potash already in and the SOP or should I use a fertilizer with 0 Potash and use the SOP in addition. Don't want to add to much Potash.
Thanks Andy!
- andy10917
- Posts: 29741
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Re: Rich G Soil Test
Once/if you decide to go that way (calcitic+), I'll figure it out.I assume I can find the rates for the Epsom salts on the site.
Still missing the important info -- what is the NPK or amount of Potassium/Potash in your "normal" fertilizer, and what is your application rate?To clarify my question on the fertilizer. Can I use the normal spring fertilizer I use with potash already in and the SOP or should I use a fertilizer with 0 Potash and use the SOP in addition. Don't want to add to much Potash.
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Re: Rich G Soil Test
Andy I like the idea of using the calcitic to get quicker results and know that I think back that dolomite lime took forever to break down! Can you send me the mixture you recommend and the frequency?andy10917 wrote: ↑October 8th, 2017, 1:58 pmOnce/if you decide to go that way (calcitic+), I'll figure it out.I assume I can find the rates for the Epsom salts on the site.
Still missing the important info -- what is the NPK or amount of Potassium/Potash in your "normal" fertilizer, and what is your application rate?To clarify my question on the fertilizer. Can I use the normal spring fertilizer I use with potash already in and the SOP or should I use a fertilizer with 0 Potash and use the SOP in addition. Don't want to add to much Potash.
In regards to my fertlizer I used the below this year. Looks like I could use more of the P!
First app - 19-0-6 Lesco Dimension 50# bag over 9k sg ft (so a little heavy, the bag does up to 12k sq ft)
Second app - 18-0-4 Lesco Lock up 50# bag over 9k sg ft (so a little heavy, the bag does up to 12k sq ft)
Third App - 20-0-5
Fourth App - 18-24-12 Lesco Starter Fertilzer for over seed
I plan on using 21-0-21 for my winter fertilzer
Lastly how often do you recommend applying the milo and do you apply per the bag instructions as far as #/sq ft?
I appreciate the help!
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Re: Rich G Soil Test
Be aware:
- andy10917
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Re: Rich G Soil Test
put back into the Queue - too late to start tonight
- andy10917
- Posts: 29741
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Re: Rich G Soil Test
This is sort of why I don't care for late season soil tests - too many contradictions...
Don't apply late-season Potassium - there are some tests that indicate that it can increase Snow Mold. Do the Potassium in the Spring and Summer.
Read the Fall Nitrogen Regimens and pick one to finish the year. The challenge is that Urea and Lime don't go down at the same time - a good chunk of the Urea is lost.
Starting in the Spring, apply 10 lbs/K of good calcitic Lime (Mag-I-Cal/Encap/Sol-U-Cal) mixed with 2 lbs/K of Epsom Salts. Apply at 12 lbs/K every 90 days.
Don't apply late-season Potassium - there are some tests that indicate that it can increase Snow Mold. Do the Potassium in the Spring and Summer.
Read the Fall Nitrogen Regimens and pick one to finish the year. The challenge is that Urea and Lime don't go down at the same time - a good chunk of the Urea is lost.
Starting in the Spring, apply 10 lbs/K of good calcitic Lime (Mag-I-Cal/Encap/Sol-U-Cal) mixed with 2 lbs/K of Epsom Salts. Apply at 12 lbs/K every 90 days.
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Re: Rich G Soil Test
Thanks again Andy it is greatly appreciated. So it should like I should wait til the spring to add the lime correct? It could I apply the lines now and wait a month and apply the last app of fertilizer?andy10917 wrote: ↑October 13th, 2017, 8:32 amThis is sort of why I don't care for late season soil tests - too many contradictions...
Don't apply late-season Potassium - there are some tests that indicate that it can increase Snow Mold. Do the Potassium in the Spring and Summer.
Read the Fall Nitrogen Regimens and pick one to finish the year. The challenge is that Urea and Lime don't go down at the same time - a good chunk of the Urea is lost.
Starting in the Spring, apply 10 lbs/K of good calcitic Lime (Mag-I-Cal/Encap/Sol-U-Cal) mixed with 2 lbs/K of Epsom Salts. Apply at 12 lbs/K every 90 days.
- andy10917
- Posts: 29741
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Re: Rich G Soil Test
I would wait on the Lime - the moment to put the winterizer down is pretty short (when growth stops). If the lime had gone down recently, that would be an issue.
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Re: Rich G Soil Test
So how do I go about it in the spring won't I run into the same issue? Should I toss the lime down before the first spring app of fertilizer?
- andy10917
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Re: Rich G Soil Test
C'mon - put on the thinking cap. The Lime goes on a 90-day cycle, with a two-week spacing from anything containing urea-based Nitrogen. The Nitrogen will be on a 30-day cycle. It's easy to keep them away from each other.
Your issue this Fall is that you don't have even two weeks left certain. I imagine that the date for average first frost is past and that you should be in The Pause now. That indicated that you're probably less than 30 days from stoppage of growth and playing with both Urea and Lime is not advised.
Your issue this Fall is that you don't have even two weeks left certain. I imagine that the date for average first frost is past and that you should be in The Pause now. That indicated that you're probably less than 30 days from stoppage of growth and playing with both Urea and Lime is not advised.
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Re: Rich G Soil Test
It has been unseasonable warm up here this fall and we have not had a first frost yet and the grass is still growing. I will wait to the spring and start the lime. I wasn't aware of the two week gap. Still learning all this stuff. Do you start with the nitrogen or the lime or does it not matter?andy10917 wrote: ↑October 15th, 2017, 11:31 amC'mon - put on the thinking cap. The Lime goes on a 90-day cycle, with a two-week spacing from anything containing urea-based Nitrogen. The Nitrogen will be on a 30-day cycle. It's easy to keep them away from each other.
Your issue this Fall is that you don't have even two weeks left certain. I imagine that the date for average first frost is past and that you should be in The Pause now. That indicated that you're probably less than 30 days from stoppage of growth and playing with both Urea and Lime is not advised.
Thanks again.
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