10-24-17 Koz/Logan soil test

[Koz]

Greetings everyone;

I too am new to the forum. I posted a link to my Logan soil test in the queue. Looking for a ST6 eval & recommendations. I don't anticipate achieving master gardener status in the next few years without a complete reno but I would like to get mostly grass with few weeds. Living in transition zone 6a, my research leads me to believe I'd do best with 90% TTTF + 10% KBG. Any recommendations of sources & blends would be greatly appreciated.

I'm embarrassed to admit that I've lived in this house for 30 years and have performed very little in the way of soil/grass care. Lawn is right at 5000 sq. ft. I always mow at the highest settings my mower will cut, typically once a week. Unfortunately, I have no idea what grass is in my yard and assume it's some sort of fescue with an approx. 200 sq. ft. section that may be zoysia. I'll do my best to get some decent closeups if needed.

I've only this year made a genuine effort to learn anything about what's growing in my yard. I do know I have beaucoup weeds from crabgrass to nimblewill and that the giant black walnut tree that started as a twig next door is what probably killed my peonies & decimated my many lilacs.

This spring I made one application of WBG Chickweed, Clover & Oxalis killer and one application of Hi-Yield Preemergent with Dimension. I've resolved to postponing any overseeding until next fall after I kill more weeds & condition the soil.

Preferably, I'd like to use Milorganite fertilizer and was planning on aerating recently but just learned of the Aerify alternative. I did buy their All-in-one product thinking I could apply it a few weeks ago but held off until I had a soil test by Logan.

Thanks much.

[andy10917]

I posted a link to my Logan soil test in the queue.

I don't see a link to this thread in there.

[Koz]

Not sure exactly what is is you're looking for.

This?
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=23485

[andy10917]

Yes, please post that Link into a posting in the Soil Test Interpretations Queue. That way, when one of us says "give me the next member in line, your name will pop up. It's totally fair - we do the next member waiting when we're doing test interpretations.

[Koz]

Sorry, I interpreted the directions as requiring a link to a pic of the test only & not a URL to my post. My apologies.

[HoosierLawnGnome]

That's really in pretty decent shape! Not much work to do! It will do well to support a healthy turf stand.

I'll assume you have more of a fescue lawn.

For specific recommendations on renovations, start a thread in the renovations forum - we try to keep these threads mostly soil-focused, factoring in your goals and objectives of course.

The soil is a little heavy with TEC of 20, but not terribly so. You have a great organic matter level which may be increasing that number. Plenty of places to exchange and the structure should hold nutrients well.

Even with a good OM measure, keep mulch mowing and mulching leaves - but no need to break your back in this area - focus on your other objectives. Of course, if you get a fungus, you may want to bag mow.

In the major cations, they are in decent alignment, but we'll mostly leave it alone. The Ca is good, the Mg is high - skewing it, and the K is shy.

Phosphorus is ok.

Iron is in good shape.

The pH is spot on.

So, I think a simple plan that will up your K slowly and add P will help you out.

Find a balanced fertilizer, like 12-12-12 or 18-18-18. Apply this at the rate on the bag May, late August (when the summer heat breaks), September. If you want application rates, post the NPK here and we'll help you out. This will help your P and K levels,while supplying some synthetic N during peak growth times.

You don't really need the milorganite for Iron, but it will help you with N and more P. Apply this for your Nitrogen needs. I'd recommend bag rate April, May, June, August, September - a few weeks from the balanced fertilizer. You'll noticed I skipped July. Don't pump Nitrogen if your turf is under heat stress and you don't irrigate it to keep it going. Go light, otherwise.

Some transition zone members winterize, others don't. You'll have to see what works for your yard. If you DO, you'll need a synthetic, fast-release fertilizer like urea for that. It goes down when top growth stops but the roots are still growing. If that doesn't happen for you, or its pretty short - skip it and treat the winter more like a pause.

[Koz]

Thanks HLG;

It's great that I have good soil. This was all farm land 60 years ago. That may have something to do with it. I appreciate the guidance. I will certainly incorporate your recommendations.

So, I'm off to kill some weeds.

Thanks again.

[Koz]

Wanting to put down the first app of balanced fertilizer (Greenskeeper's Secret).

If I want 1lb N / 1k sq ft & have 40lb bags of 12-12-12...
.12(40) = 4.8 lbs. So, a 40lb bag should cover ~5k sq ft. Right?

BUT...
the bag says 2 cups is approx 1 lb. and 7-8 cups covers 1K sq ft.
If 40 lbs.= ~80 cups
then, 80/8 = ~10k sq ft.

AND...
Their website says a 40lb bag of 12-12-12 covers around 15k sq ft.

What rate do I use?

[andy10917]

983 furlongs/fortnight

I've been doing it for so long that I skip all that stuff. I know that 8 lbs of 12-12-12 will deliver 0.96 lbs/K of each nutrient. That's close enough to 1 lb/K for yard work.

At 8 lbs/K, you'll get 5000 sq ft out of the 40 lb bag - done!!!