Josh's 2018 soil test

[southern-ct-4]

Ok thank you.

[southern-ct-4]

I'd wait until Spring. The Milorganite won't break down once the temperatures are such that the microherd goes to sleep.

Sorry, to confirm, should I still do an app of milorganite (no micros), or no more milo either?

Actually, I just strolled back up the trail and see that you said "The Iron is low. You can use Milorganite at bag rate monthly (not after first frost)".

Since I have had a frost, I guess I'm done with milo for the year.

Is there any other type of fert you recommend I use instead at any point in the next month or so? Milo was put down at bag rate on 10/9. Or should I be done for the year?

Thanks.

[andy10917]

My advice would be to read and understand the first post in the Fall Nitrogen Regimens thread and make an educated decision after that. If you have specific questions after you read that, I'm always here (I wrote the regimen).

[southern-ct-4]

Thanks Andy. I read the fall regimen, but since (I think) I'm on a soil remediation plan (i.e. the micros, mag-i-cal, etc. that you recommended per my soil test), I didn't think the regimen applied to me. I was going by "If you are on a soil remediation plan, stay with it and make sure that you're getting a full complement of Nitrogen down with any other nutrients specified".

Should I not consider myself on a remediation plan at this point, and instead follow the regimen?

If I should follow the regimen, and since I don't have irrigation, I assume standard is the plan for me (though I'd love to try the aggressive at some point, so perhaps in the future I'll figure out a portion of my lawn where I can leave a sprinkler out and just do that area with weekly urea).

In any case, assuming I should follow the standard plan, it says to have the last of the time-release Nitrogen peter out right around the time of average first-frost. Since first frost hit, am I done? Is the late fall 2 lbs/k of urea only for the aggressive plan, or should I be doing it on the standard plan as well?

Thanks again.

[andy10917]

You can do the final "winterization" application as described in the thread, even with the Remediation plan - that ends with the first average frost as you wrote. The FINAL application is when the grass completely stops growing - generally 3-4 weeks after the average frost date. Don't use the 3-4 weeks as a time to mark on your calendar - the time is WHEN THE GRASS STOPS GROWING. The roots stay active a little while after the top growth stops, and it is stored as carbohydrates for Spring. The last app is at the 2 lbs/K of Urea level, which translates to slightly under 1 lb/K of Nitrogen.

[southern-ct-4]

Thanks Andy. Exactly 3 weeks after my first frost (10/17 + 21 = 11/7) I'll put down 40 lbs of Urea (20k sq ft x 2 lbs/k).

Just kidding of course. I'll only put it down after the grass stops growing

Follow-up question;

let's say, just for example, that I happen to mow on 11/1, and I see clippings, but the grass had stopped growing on 10/31. I of course won't know it stopped as there were clippings.

If I don't mow again until 11/6, and see that there was no growth, is it now too late to put down the final urea (as it's been an extra week since it stopped growing? Or is it ok to be a little late, just make sure not to be too early?

[andy10917]

Yes. The window of opportunity is about three weeks following growth stoppage. After that, the roots have stopped being active, and there is no gain to be had.

[southern-ct-4]

Ok, so I should keep mowing frequently (which I'm doing anyway to mulch leaves) and keep a careful eye out for when there's no more grass clipping (just leaves), so I can figure out exactly when it stops.

Though it's pretty hard to tell because even if it hasn't stopped, it's really slow, and since I mulch I might not notice anything.

I do have a push mower and can bag clippings, would you recommend I use that here and there to help determine when growth stops?

Finally, and I'm sorry if I sound like an idiot, I'm really not... but I'm not sure if I'm mixing up when you say it usually stops growing 3-4 weeks after frost vs. the window of opportunity (to use urea) is about 3 weeks following growth stoppage. In my example above, growth stopped on 10/31, and I mentioned not knowing it had stopped until 11/6. Therefore I'm within 3 weeks of the growth stoppage, but you said "yes" meaning (I think) that it's too late for urea.

Sorry for my confusion.

[andy10917]

No problem. It is NOT the actual first frost date that is the best indicator - it is the AVERAGE first frost date that is the best indicator (the actual first frost may be earlier or later in any specific year). These are just indicators of general times to be observant - and you should bag and inspect a few bands with the mower to know when growth has completely stopped. Close only counts in horseshoes, darts and atomic weapons.

Look up your average first frost date with the link in the first posting in "Fall Nitrogen Regimens".

Your other conclusions are correct.

[southern-ct-4]

Ok gotcha. Thanks again!

[southern-ct-4]

Sorry, quick follow-up; after how many days of checking can one be certain there's no growth? In other words, if I mowed on Monday (3 days), and did a few stripes today and nothing went into the bag, is my grass done growing, or should I check again over the next 1, 2, ??? days to confirm that it's definitely done?

Problem is that I probably can't mow again (due to rain) until Sunday. However, I may not be home Sunday in which case Thursday next week might be my next chance (rain Mon/Tues/Weds).

Any thoughts on what should I do? My first frost average is 11/3 (assuming I'm reading the website correctly, as there are 3 options for my zip code, so I scrolled down to Bridgeport which is closest to me, but maybe Bridgeport is different as it's closer to the water, and I should stick with Danbury which is 10/9?). 3 weeks after 11/3 wouldn't be until 11/24, but 3 weeks after 10/9 would be 10/30 (i.e. now).

Thanks for your continued assistance!

[andy10917]

Don't overthink this, or obsess to find the exact nanosecond that growth stops - a lawn isn't like that. There is a window of opportunity, and it's 2-3 weeks long.

I know CT (I lived in Stamford) - what town are you in, and if in the towns where it matters are you North or South of the Merritt? Better yet, what's the Zip Code?

[southern-ct-4]

Thanks Andy. 06611, just about 4 miles north of the Merritt. As you can probably tell by now, I can't stop overthinking anything!!

[andy10917]

North of the Merritt it is colder. Definitely so in Trumbull (a friend lived there, and I know it a bit).

Don't obsess - you'll get this done, and there will be a little buffer.

[southern-ct-4]

Thanks Andy. So when using the frost website, https://davesgarden.com/guides/freeze-f ... &submit=Go , should I not use the Bridgeport average date of 11/3 (even though Bridgeport is close to me, it is south of the Merritt) and instead use one of the other 2 options, which are similar (10/5 or 10/9), and which are, obviously, much different than the Bridgeport figure?

The top of the page says 10/9, so perhaps I should just use that?

[andy10917]

I'd consider averaging the Danbury location and the Bridgeport, until you have 3-4 years of data about your location (keep records!). That's safe...

[southern-ct-4]

Sounds good, thanks again!

[Green]

Josh,

Also see if the CT Agricultural Experiment Station has first frost data for a station near you. I found data from a location about 5 miles away from me, and it showed that the other sites online that are often used, weren't as accurate as they could be (they were a few days too early compared to the CAES data). Local data is great if you have it.

[southern-ct-4]

Will do, thanks.

[southern-ct-4]

You guys are good (not that I doubted that!). CT ag station said I'm a little colder than Bridgeport Sikorsky and a little warmer than Danbury (just as Andy said above), and they would use 10/15 as the average. I was going to use 10/21 (as that's the actual average of Bridgeport and Danbury, but I assume he did some slightly different math).

In any case, it's all pretty close.

Thanks again!