Spacklerstyle 2019 Soil Test

[Spacklerstyle]

Greetings All,

I am attaching my first Logan labs soil sample. I have previously performed tests with other labs in the past (local co-op) and these values differ from what I have historically seen. I fully suspect it is because I requested ammonium acetate, per the guidance given for calcareous soils (thank you).

I have provided information about my lawn below.

Located in Central Texas, over the Edward's Plateau - solid limestone bedrock after 4-6" soil depth.

Total Lawn is ~6,000 sq ft, hybrid bermuda throughout.

I water to a depth of 1"/wk total. Deep and infrequent... which is generally 1x per week, with the exception of the hottest summer months - 2x or maybe 3x if needed July/Aug/Sept.

I mulch mow the front low at 1" (possibly looking at springing for a reel mower, but use a rotary at the lowest setting for now) and the back at 1.5-2" 1-2x per week (2x per week during peak summer growth months).

I am looking for "best" I can possibly do (especially for the front - front lawn is ~2K of the total 6K sqft).

Thanks in advance!!

-Spacklerstyle

[andy10917]

Yes, the Ammonium Acetate test method delivers a much better picture for those soils with a lot of limestone.

Bermuda can handle this soil. Even though the cations are combining to deliver the 8.1 pH, it works - but the Potassium is struggling to handle the amount of Calcium. We'll deal with it.

The Phosphorus is quite low, and when both Phosphorus and Potassium are low, we reach for the balanced fertilizers to keep the number of applications reasonable while delivering Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium in equal amounts. These are typically sold as "garden" or "all-purpose" fertilizers, and there won't be instructions for lawn applications. Don't worry about it - it's the same stuff. Choose a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10 or 19-19-19 and post the NPK for the application rate. You'll be applying it monthly during the growing season.

The OM number is poor. That's not as critical when you have a high TEC as the TEC provides lots of exchange sites to keep the fertilizer nutrients from leaching, but we have to remember that the Calcium is always going to be grabbing them. It's just the way it is with a calcareous soil. Still, make it a point to be aggressive on OM supplementation with compost, chopped leaves, or peat moss.

Does the soil drain OK?

There is no nice way to say this, so I'm gonna blurt it out: the Iron number is pitiful. With a pH of 8.1 there isn't a chance that something like Ferrous Sulfate will work. You have to work something like Milorganite into the regimen and/or read and work foliar FAS applications into your planning - or color will suffer. Find and read the article on foliar Iron applications and practice them as needed - which may be every 3 weeks or so.

In the micro's, Boron and Zinc need supplementation. Apply 3 tablespoons/K each of Twenty Mule Team Laundry Soap (from the grocery store) and Zinc Sulfate (from Amazon/EBAY) every 60 days, as outlined in the Micronutrient Application Guide.

[Spacklerstyle]

Thank you very much Andy. I sincerely appreciate it.

I can find Hyponex 13-13-13 at the local big box store for a good price, so I’ll run with that this year. I will supplement some Milo in between feeding (adding micros as needed). ~what do you recommend for application rate with the Milo as well?

The lawn drains well, but I have a reasonable grade sloping toward the back of my property. The side yard will pool up a bit sometimes, but other than that it isn’t typically an issue).

[Spacklerstyle]

Thanks Andy! A 10-10-10 would go down at 10 lbs/k, correct?

Also, should I apply bag rate for Milo between feedings?

Thank you very much once again!

[andy10917]

Yessir, 10 lbs/K.

Milorganite can be put down at bag-rate, or half-rate.

[Spacklerstyle]

Hey Andy,

Follow up question...

What do you think about the combination of MAP (Monoammonium Phosphate 11-52-0), sul-po-mag, w/ ammonium sulfate for N? My local extension mentioned these in the past but it seems like overkill / wasted $$ in my opinion, especially when a balanced fert can accomplish everything in one app. Plus, I've also read on this site (you might have even posted this) that chasing any magnesium improvement in calcareous soils is a complete waste of time and $$.

However, I have read good things about MAP in alkaline soils... any thoughts?

[andy10917]

I'm a believer in not trying to nuance pH in situations where the grass type can handle the situation. Huge amounts of Calcium will put you into a permanent battle to try to maintain the upper hand. While you try, the pH yo-yo's up and down, which is more harmful than just making the Bermuda healthy and happy at the existing pH.

I try to grow nice grass with what Mother Nature dealt me, if that's possible. Where I need to supplement the situation, I try to use the gentlest products that I believe will get the job done, and in reasonable quantities in any single application. It works well for me, and it seems to work for many of the people that I build soil plans for. I'm sticking with it...

[Spacklerstyle]

Perfect. Makes perfect sense to me.

Many thanks once again.

[Spacklerstyle]

Since the queue is empty, I thought I’d attempt to take some liberties...

Originally, I was thinking Hyponex 13-13-13 would be my balanced fert choice... however, upon reading the label (per the earlier discussion on fert labels - thank you!) I’m less than impressed. Urea, Potassium chloride, ammonium phosphate, seems to to be a cheap and potentially harsh combination.

I can find LESCO 14-14-14 at my local SiteOne for a reasonable price as well. The label would indicate to me this is a superior choice due to the presence of more ammoniacal N, SOP, and polymer coated urea/ammonium phosphate/SOP for more slow release nutrients. At 14-14-14, I’d assume this goes down at 7 lbs K, which also makes a 40 lb bag a convenient option for my 5700 sqft lawn (no measuring).

I’ve attached the LESCO label for any opinions... thanks!

[andy10917]

Good swap, and rate is correct.

[Spacklerstyle]

Hi Andy,

Now that the busy season is over I have a follow up question about switching to an organic feeding program. I am very green when it comes to organics (besides throwing down some Milo... which does't count) and have questions about how a program like mine would get modified if droping the synth.

I have been using the Lesco 14-14-14 at 1 lb N /K each month since mid March, AND have been applying 1 lb/k Milo off-cycle between feedings. Let's just say the lawn has been growing... I leveled my lawn with sand in the spring and have been trying to get it to fill in. And, it has.

However, I am actually already at 7 lbs / K of total N for the year (counting the Milo)... and that's only through June. Sure, it's hybrid Bermuda, but at this pace I'll hit 16 lbs N for the season... The Lesco is polymer coated so it's been supplying a slow release with great results... but I am beginning to think I am overdoing it.

My thoughts are to swap the Lesco out for an organic option (Sustane or or Protene) at 1 lb /N K but alternate monthly with the Milo... (essentially applying each every 60 days for the rest of the season). What are your thoughts on this approach? Should I try to maintain the balanced P-K for the rest of the season with an organic choice? Do I even need 1 lb N/ K per mo?

Thanks!

[andy10917]

Alright, before we get going, I want to clear up a few necessary questions:

AND have been applying 1 lb/k Milo off-cycle between feedings.

1 lb/K of Milorganite? Why bother? Or did you mean to say 1 lb/K N from Milorganite?

The Lesco is polymer coated so it's been supplying a slow release with great results... but I am beginning to think I am overdoing it.

Combining slow-release fertilizers and even Milorganite is not a top-shelf idea -- the slow-release stuff is still releasing and wham along comes the Milorganite. That's dicey if it was 14 lbs/K (1 lb/K N) of Milorganite.

OK, so you've got the grass green and happily growing now (I suspect mowing is a measurable part of your life). If it's hauling butt and you like the color, ease up. I'm not a fan of the products you're choosing ($$$$ reasons only) but if you are happy, ease off the pedal on the 14-14-14. Use the product(s) you chose. If the color fades some, you can always tickle the lawn off-cycle with a half-dose of Milorganite. Chances are that the microherd will participate without a lull/dropoff as the Milo has them primed.

There aren't many "organic" options for P and K, and it's important to remember that you're still in a soil remediation plan. Sulfate of Potash is good for the K. Triple Superphosphate is much more processed, but based on natural stuff. You can't just pound the Nitrogen and leave the other major nutrients lacking - sooner or later you'll stress the plants and pay the piper.

Do you "need" a lb per month of N for Bermuda? That's up to your choice and taste. Back off some and see if you like it as much 6-8 weeks later -- you your eyes and brain.

[Spacklerstyle]

Alright, before we get going, I want to clear up a few necessary questions:

AND have been applying 1 lb/k Milo off-cycle between feedings.

1 lb/K of Milorganite? Why bother? Or did you mean to say 1 lb/K N from Milorganite?

Thanks Andy. Yes, that was a typo. 1 lb/K N Milo 2 weeks after the synth goes down... then 2 weeks after the Milo, more synth.

Yeah... mowing has become my second job - but it's a good thing I enjoy it. I recently got a used Tru Cut reel, and am loving the cut.

Ok, good to know... I'll swap the 14-14-14 for an organic option and see how the season progresses. My follow up question is around ideal amounts of P-K. Since I have been using the 14-14-14, I've also been applying 1 lb /K P&N per month as well. If I switch to organic EoM, I'm worried I might not hit enough P&K assuming I should still try to keep each close to 1 lb /K P&K (same app rate, but cutting the frequency in half)? I was thinking Sustane 5-2-4 @ 1 lb /K N would be a nice choice (as I should be getting some P from the Milo as well). Besides the $$$ factor (which I agree - should look for an alternate approach next year), does this make sense? Would a better alternative be to go straight Milo the rest of the season and supplement SoP?

Mid July - Sustane 5-2-4 @ 1 lb /K N
Mid Aug - Milorganite 6-4-0 @ 1lb/K N (include micros)
Mid Sept - Sustane 5-2-4 @ 1 lb /K N
Mid Oct - Milorganite 6-4-0 @ 1lb/K N (include micros)

OR

Mid July - Milorganite 4-4-0 @ 1 lb /K N + SoP 0-0-50 @ 1 lb/K K
Mid Aug - Milorganite 6-4-0 @ 1lb/K N (include micros) + SoP 0-0-50 @ 1 lb/K K
Mid Sept - Milorganite 4-4-0 @ 1 lb /K N + SoP 0-0-50 @ 1 lb/K K
Mid Oct - Milorganite 6-4-0 @ 1lb/K N (include micros) + SoP 0-0-50 @ 1 lb/K K

[andy10917]

Just like Nitrogen, a reasonable amount of Potassium or Phosphorus is 1 lb/K/month of the actual resulting nutrient. So, if we're talking 0-0-50 SOP, then 2 lbs/K of SOP is needed to reach the target number. In blended fertilizers, the first one to hit 1 lb/K of actual nutrient is the cut-off for the entire thing.

[Spacklerstyle]

Thanks. For simplicity (and cost) I think I’ll go straight Milo at 1lb/K N per month and supplement the 2lb/K (total weight) 0-0-50 monthly as well. I’ll be short on the P, but we’ll see what the soil test says in the spring.

Thanks again! This has been incredibly helpful.

[andy10917]

I don't know that the Phosphorus number will actually come up short -- at 5-4-0 the Phosphorus is 4% minimum, just 1% below the associated Nitrogen.

I think you'll be fine.

[Spacklerstyle]

Andy, now that I have switched to a more organic approach I've reading a lot about Humates. I know it's all the rage right now and has gone full "mainstream..." and I also suspect I am probably part of the "targeted audience" marketing claims are focusing on... however, I'm interested in your opinion on whether or not I'd be in the group of folks that could see some serious benefit.

Given my soil properties (low OM, clay TEC 15.5, which absorbs water slowly, pH 8.1, calcareous soil binding up nutrients in the soil like iron, etc) claims about how Humates can help with soil compaction/water absorption, stimulating microorganism activity, and releasing more nutrients tied up in the soil (chelating agent) have caught my attention.

A 40 lb bag costs $30, so definitely worth a try... just wondering if the chemistry supports what I hope it to do...

Thoughts?

[andy10917]

You could try it, but I don't think you're an ideal candidate. You don't have a problem holding on to nutrients at your TEC, and with a calcareous soil, you're probably prone to just adding more exchange sites to store more available Calcium.

I like humates as a booster of TEC in some soils, but I'd have to say my recommendation for you is try it and see for a couple of applications - but don't expect a large change...

[Spacklerstyle]

Ok, good to know. Thanks for the input!