bob0755 2019 Soil Tests

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bob0755
Posts: 32
Joined: April 5th, 2018, 4:51 pm
Location: West Michigan
Grass Type: Kentucky Bluegrass
Lawn Size: 5000-10000
Level: Experienced

bob0755 2019 Soil Tests

Post by bob0755 » April 9th, 2019, 10:07 am

Here are my soil tests for this year. I built a retaining wall and extended the lawn last year, so I had a separate test done for the new area (about 700 sf). I am also posting me results from last year, for comparison. Thanks in advance!
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bob0755
Posts: 32
Joined: April 5th, 2018, 4:51 pm
Location: West Michigan
Grass Type: Kentucky Bluegrass
Lawn Size: 5000-10000
Level: Experienced

Re: bob0755 2019 Soil Tests

Post by bob0755 » April 11th, 2019, 7:49 am

Additional notes:

1) As I said, I had a separate test done for the new area--I am not sure why they did not put both results on one page, as I have noticed in other submissions.

2) This year's sample should be more accurate, as I purchased a soil probe, and tried to be very precise. I also took more, smaller samples compared to last year.

3) As my profile states, I am in Michigan. I have about 4700 square feet total of Kentucky Bluegrass.

4) I am a bit discouraged that my potassium numbers are not better, and the PH actually got worse. I faithfully applied SOP last year, as instructed, and I have already ordered a 50 lb bag to get started this year. I also applied Milorganite at 1/2 rate every two weeks last year. I was not quite as diligent regarding FAS applications--it was a pain to mix and to be careful not to track it on the sidewalk--but if that is what it takes, I will resume this year.

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andy10917
Posts: 29739
Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
Location: NY (Lower Hudson Valley)
Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
Lawn Size: 1 acre-2 acre
Level: Advanced

Re: bob0755 2019 Soil Tests

Post by andy10917 » April 12th, 2019, 9:35 pm

Don't spend more money on more than one test - while there is variation, it's the same set of nutrients that need supplementation.

The TEC's indicate soils that vary between 7.5 to 12 - slightly below to the midrange of Loams. The OM%'s range from the mid-3's to the high-4's. Keep up the OM supplementation except for the Old Lawn (at the high-4's, it's fine unless you want to continue).

The cations show high Calcium and the highest pH area has Magnesium joining the party. Nothing to do about either, but keep up on the Potassium. 2 lbs/K SOP monthly. Yes, Calcium and Magnesium may displace some of it, but some will add up. Stay the course.

All of the Iron numbers are good, but not much of the Iron is available due to the pH (downstream effects of Calcium and Magnesium). You can use Milorganite (or equivalent) to get some Iron that IS available. Or top off the lawn with regular (3 week?) FAS treatments. See the Articles area for more detail.

In the micro's, only Boron is short - do you want to address it?

Nitrogen is up to you, but Urea or Milorganite come to mind for me...

bob0755
Posts: 32
Joined: April 5th, 2018, 4:51 pm
Location: West Michigan
Grass Type: Kentucky Bluegrass
Lawn Size: 5000-10000
Level: Experienced

Re: bob0755 2019 Soil Tests

Post by bob0755 » April 12th, 2019, 9:53 pm

Thanks Andy!

Yes, I do want to address the Boron, and I will continue with the Borax applications per your recommendation from last year. I will also continue with Milorganite—The supply in my area is good, and the price is low. The SOP is on the way, and I will do the first application next week.

Would it be worthwhile to also do some applications of elemental sulfur?

User avatar
andy10917
Posts: 29739
Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
Location: NY (Lower Hudson Valley)
Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
Lawn Size: 1 acre-2 acre
Level: Advanced

Re: bob0755 2019 Soil Tests

Post by andy10917 » April 12th, 2019, 10:38 pm

Would it be worthwhile to also do some applications of elemental sulfur?
No - it doesn't work in the North and it doesn't work when surface-applied.


bob0755
Posts: 32
Joined: April 5th, 2018, 4:51 pm
Location: West Michigan
Grass Type: Kentucky Bluegrass
Lawn Size: 5000-10000
Level: Experienced

Re: bob0755 2019 Soil Tests

Post by bob0755 » April 13th, 2019, 5:32 am

OK--Thanks again!

bob0755
Posts: 32
Joined: April 5th, 2018, 4:51 pm
Location: West Michigan
Grass Type: Kentucky Bluegrass
Lawn Size: 5000-10000
Level: Experienced

Re: bob0755 2019 Soil Tests

Post by bob0755 » April 13th, 2019, 6:56 am

andy10917 wrote:
April 12th, 2019, 9:35 pm
Don't spend more money on more than one test - while there is variation, it's the same set of nutrients that need supplementation.

The TEC's indicate soils that vary between 7.5 to 12 - slightly below to the midrange of Loams. The OM%'s range from the mid-3's to the high-4's. Keep up the OM supplementation except for the Old Lawn (at the high-4's, it's fine unless you want to continue).

The cations show high Calcium and the highest pH area has Magnesium joining the party. Nothing to do about either, but keep up on the Potassium. 2 lbs/K SOP monthly. Yes, Calcium and Magnesium may displace some of it, but some will add up. Stay the course.

All of the Iron numbers are good, but not much of the Iron is available due to the pH (downstream effects of Calcium and Magnesium). You can use Milorganite (or equivalent) to get some Iron that IS available. Or top off the lawn with regular (3 week?) FAS treatments. See the Articles area for more detail.

In the micro's, only Boron is short - do you want to address it?

Nitrogen is up to you, but Urea or Milorganite come to mind for me...
Just to clarify: I filled the new area with about 12" of topsoil/compost mixture, so I was curious how it would compare to the old lawn.

Also, I hate to ask so many questions, but I am trying to understand how to interpret the results on my own. I am wondering why I would need apply SOP to the new lawn, since the numbers seem to fall in line with the desired values and ratios in the test? Is the purpose to lower the PH??

Finally, this is probably are stupid question, and I have not been able to find any information when doing a search: I have extremely hard water--would that have an effect on the calcium and PH numbers, when using irrigation in the summer?

User avatar
andy10917
Posts: 29739
Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
Location: NY (Lower Hudson Valley)
Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
Lawn Size: 1 acre-2 acre
Level: Advanced

Re: bob0755 2019 Soil Tests

Post by andy10917 » April 13th, 2019, 8:05 am

Your clarification somewhat changes my mind - but you'll have to make the decision...

I was unaware that the new area was added soil at a depth of 12" until you just added it. I'm used to people adding an inch or two of topsoil, and I advise them to treat that like the native (original) soil, as it is still deficient underneath the added soil - and part of the root zone. At 12", you've got it throughout the root zone - no horizon(s).

I'm also not a fan of treating a small area (700 sq ft) differently - personal bias. It's too hard to treat differently with broadcast spreaders, etc. You already have a horizontal horizon at 12" - that's fine as it's below the root zone, but applying nutrients differently from one area to another develops vertical horizons too. I hate artificial horizons. It is highly likely that the added topsoil was source pretty locally, and may have been amended. If the nutrients leach, the soil will move toward its natural profile over time, Keep an eye on it.

Consider those pieces of information and make up your own mind...

bob0755
Posts: 32
Joined: April 5th, 2018, 4:51 pm
Location: West Michigan
Grass Type: Kentucky Bluegrass
Lawn Size: 5000-10000
Level: Experienced

Re: bob0755 2019 Soil Tests

Post by bob0755 » April 13th, 2019, 9:12 am

andy10917 wrote:
April 13th, 2019, 8:05 am
Your clarification somewhat changes my mind - but you'll have to make the decision...

I was unaware that the new area was added soil at a depth of 12" until you just added it. I'm used to people adding an inch or two of topsoil, and I advise them to treat that like the native (original) soil, as it is still deficient underneath the added soil - and part of the root zone. At 12", you've got it throughout the root zone - no horizon(s).

I'm also not a fan of treating a small area (700 sq ft) differently - personal bias. It's too hard to treat differently with broadcast spreaders, etc. You already have a horizontal horizon at 12" - that's fine as it's below the root zone, but applying nutrients differently from one area to another develops vertical horizons too. I hate artificial horizons. It is highly likely that the added topsoil was source pretty locally, and may have been amended. If the nutrients leach, the soil will move toward its natural profile over time, Keep an eye on it.

Consider those pieces of information and make up your own mind...
Got it--That makes sense. I think I will treat the entire yard the same, and monitor it by continuing to get 2 soil tests each year.

Thanks!

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