Core Aeration - Overseed and Fill
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Core Aeration - Overseed and Fill
Just planning for the fall aeration.
After core aerating, should I leave the cores empty for a week or 2.
I plan to backfill the holes back with compost and then overseed around the same time frame
After core aerating, should I leave the cores empty for a week or 2.
I plan to backfill the holes back with compost and then overseed around the same time frame
- turf_toes
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Re: Core Aeration - Overseed and Fill
Most people here would first ask why you think you need to core aerate.
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Re: Core Aeration - Overseed and Fill
The area is question is not a site I maintain .....the soil is tan (not a lot of OM), and its fairly compacted. Whatever irrigation it gets, some of it does absorb but some just rolls off
- turf_toes
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Re: Core Aeration - Overseed and Fill
I’m going to move this to the soils and composting forum.
Frankly, I suspect you don’t really need to aerate. But Andy, HLG or someone else there may have better insight.
Frankly, I suspect you don’t really need to aerate. But Andy, HLG or someone else there may have better insight.
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Re: Core Aeration - Overseed and Fill
I'm seeing liquid soil aerators online.....reviews seem favorable. Could only stick a screw in 1/2" . After said liquid aerator applied, screwdriver went in 6 inches .....unless its too much of a Billy Mays-esque sales pitch review
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Re: Core Aeration - Overseed and Fill
To expand on a topic further, I thought core aeration was a good cultural practice at least 1X a year. Allows for nutrients, etc. My OP was re: compactation/lack of irrigation/better moisutere. But the principles of coring, better/longer root growth, etc still apply no ? Well, technically, looser soil (without holes) also allow for better root growth I suppose
- turf_toes
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Re: Core Aeration - Overseed and Fill
Generally speaking, the thought is you shouldn’t disturb the soil.
People often do core aeration because that’s what they’ve been told to do. Hopefully Andy will see this thread. I’m sure he’ll have more to say about it.
People often do core aeration because that’s what they’ve been told to do. Hopefully Andy will see this thread. I’m sure he’ll have more to say about it.
- turf_toes
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Re: Core Aeration - Overseed and Fill
In the meantime, search the site for “Bestlawn soil conditioner”
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Re: Core Aeration - Overseed and Fill
I came across a couple of threads once you mentioned it was ~frowned upon~ on core aeration.
Will need to read some more. In my very brief skimming, (bad analogy), but it sorta reminded me how using some soap can help if one needed to ~rehydrate peat moss~ once it became dried out and hydrophobic
Will need to read some more. In my very brief skimming, (bad analogy), but it sorta reminded me how using some soap can help if one needed to ~rehydrate peat moss~ once it became dried out and hydrophobic
- andy10917
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Re: Core Aeration - Overseed and Fill
I actually own an aeration plugger, It has been behind the barn in the rain and snow for well more than a decade. I found that it brought weed seeds to the surface, and (far worse!) spread Poa Trivialis from a few localized spots to a general infestation of the entire lawn, which I wound up killing (renovation). The renovated (next) lawn had some of the Triv recover - which I fought for six years. I strongly believe that the less the soil is disturbed, the better the lawn does -- even when you're seeding.Hopefully Andy will see this thread. I’m sure he’ll have more to say about it.
- HoosierLawnGnome
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Re: Core Aeration - Overseed and Fill
Yeah, I def agree with asking yourself "why?" first.
If you have extreme compaction, that's a valid reason.
"Because so and so does it" isn't a valid reason. Ask them WHY they do it, then see if that applies to you.
And I think the liquid aeration products can help. Try them first for yourself. The home brew version is so cheap it's hard NOT to try it.
I also have a big pull behind core aerator. I've never used it.
I have used a manual core aeration tool to treat root-borne fungi or improve the soil in places where there has been standing water for years and there was little air space in compacted soil that needed leveled.
The reason I put holes in the ground to treat root-borne fungi was to get the fungicide into the root zone for maximum efficacy. I only core aerated known places having that pathogen.
The reason I put holes in the ground where the ground was constantly waterlogged was to increase airspace in the soil, increase drainage in those localized spots, and allow the roots to grow better. The root mass on short heights of cut is significantly smaller than taller HOCs. The roots of that turf were extremely shallow, and the grass was often yellowed from too much moisture. You could twist your foot and remove it. I topped the aerated spots with soil so the soil mixed a bit and the turf could grow back through and be more level, collecting less water. Those spots are better now.
The only reason I *may* use my big core aerator is to mix native soil with sand in a leveling project. Not just grade leveling. Putting green leveling. My goal would be to mix up the subsoil and fine sand a bit so I don't create stark profiles. But I'm still not sure I will need to do that, or if it will be better to just apply sand and humus. We shall see.
If you have extreme compaction, that's a valid reason.
"Because so and so does it" isn't a valid reason. Ask them WHY they do it, then see if that applies to you.
And I think the liquid aeration products can help. Try them first for yourself. The home brew version is so cheap it's hard NOT to try it.
I also have a big pull behind core aerator. I've never used it.
I have used a manual core aeration tool to treat root-borne fungi or improve the soil in places where there has been standing water for years and there was little air space in compacted soil that needed leveled.
The reason I put holes in the ground to treat root-borne fungi was to get the fungicide into the root zone for maximum efficacy. I only core aerated known places having that pathogen.
The reason I put holes in the ground where the ground was constantly waterlogged was to increase airspace in the soil, increase drainage in those localized spots, and allow the roots to grow better. The root mass on short heights of cut is significantly smaller than taller HOCs. The roots of that turf were extremely shallow, and the grass was often yellowed from too much moisture. You could twist your foot and remove it. I topped the aerated spots with soil so the soil mixed a bit and the turf could grow back through and be more level, collecting less water. Those spots are better now.
The only reason I *may* use my big core aerator is to mix native soil with sand in a leveling project. Not just grade leveling. Putting green leveling. My goal would be to mix up the subsoil and fine sand a bit so I don't create stark profiles. But I'm still not sure I will need to do that, or if it will be better to just apply sand and humus. We shall see.
- mitten
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Re: Core Aeration - Overseed and Fill
I don't core aerate, but it's so interesting that the text book says to do it. Why are they still teaching this in turf management schools?
- andy10917
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Re: Core Aeration - Overseed and Fill
Because there is money to be made.
Aeration makes sense on a golf course green - there is a stream of traffic in a soil-less environment. But there is next to nothing that is the same between the environment of a golf-green and a home lawn. I had an article from Cornell a few years ago that said that core aeration has next to no value after three weeks. But it is profitable for lawn-care companies and makes people believe they will have their lawn like a golf course.
Turf schools produce many people that will work at golf courses and sports fields. It just doesn't really translate to home lawns well.
Aeration makes sense on a golf course green - there is a stream of traffic in a soil-less environment. But there is next to nothing that is the same between the environment of a golf-green and a home lawn. I had an article from Cornell a few years ago that said that core aeration has next to no value after three weeks. But it is profitable for lawn-care companies and makes people believe they will have their lawn like a golf course.
Turf schools produce many people that will work at golf courses and sports fields. It just doesn't really translate to home lawns well.
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Re: Core Aeration - Overseed and Fill
For what it’s worth...a couple years ago after moving to this home I had planned on core aerating. Article after article how it was a must do in the fall. Got bids and had it scheduled. Found ATY and started reading. Cancelled the aerating and started applying BLSC/KH instead. Probably my first good decision for the lawn and definitely not the last, thanks to this forum. For everything that core aerating is supposed to accomplish, I seem to get that and more with BLSC, without weeds...
- likeasponge
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Re: Core Aeration - Overseed and Fill
+1Oldschool wrote: ↑May 5th, 2019, 1:10 pmFor what it’s worth...a couple years ago after moving to this home I had planned on core aerating. Article after article how it was a must do in the fall. Got bids and had it scheduled. Found ATY and started reading. Cancelled the aerating and started applying BLSC/KH instead. Probably my first good decision for the lawn and definitely not the last, thanks to this forum. For everything that core aerating is supposed to accomplish, I seem to get that and more with BLSC, without weeds...
This was me also....
- mitten
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Re: Core Aeration - Overseed and Fill
That makes sense Andy. I used to be a believer in core aerating as well and never realized the weed factor until I read ATY articles/forum. And now I save $50 every fall.
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