The soil at our last house was so bad that Andy suggested we move. I heeded the advice and just moved to a new construction house last week. The lawn is about 20k and I seeded last week with a mixture of Blueberry, Bewitched, and Moonlight from Valley Green blur tag. I’m seeing strips of sprout probably due to my piss [banned word] job spreading it due to timing.
It’s probably too late in the year to do anything but your advice will get me prepared for Spring.
Nick’s New Lawn Soil Test
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- Posts: 77
- Joined: July 17th, 2018, 10:13 am
- Location: Northen MA
- Grass Type: Front-SS Sunny Mix. Back-SS KGB Mix
- Lawn Size: 20000-1 acre
- Level: Novice
- andy10917
- Posts: 29741
- Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
- Location: NY (Lower Hudson Valley)
- Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
- Lawn Size: 1 acre-2 acre
- Level: Advanced
Re: Nick’s New Lawn Soil Test
OK, it's an upgrade, but there's work to do...
The TEC of < 5 means it's a sandy soil, prone to leaching. It would be even more so if it weren't for the OM, which is between mediocre and OK. Work on that to keep what you apply.
In the cations, Calcium is OK, Magnesium is low and Potassium is low. But remember - the bar is very low at a TEC like your's. So, low to start-off and prone to leaching makes life tough. Your pH is the product of this combo, and at 6.3 is not overly troublesome. I'd apply additional Calcium and Magnesium to use up your pad space to fight the lurking challenges - 5 lbs/K of good calcitic lime, mixed with 2 lbs/K of Epsom Salts will buy you some headroom. Apply it at 7 lbs/K.
When Phosphorus is OK (your's is fine) and Potassium weak, I have to send you on a trek to fins Sulfate of Potash ("SOP", 0-0-50) -- not so easy. Apply it at 2 lbs/K, monthly starting in April.
Iron is fine.
In the micro's, only Boron is short. Want to deal with that?
Do you need a Nitrogen plan?
The TEC of < 5 means it's a sandy soil, prone to leaching. It would be even more so if it weren't for the OM, which is between mediocre and OK. Work on that to keep what you apply.
In the cations, Calcium is OK, Magnesium is low and Potassium is low. But remember - the bar is very low at a TEC like your's. So, low to start-off and prone to leaching makes life tough. Your pH is the product of this combo, and at 6.3 is not overly troublesome. I'd apply additional Calcium and Magnesium to use up your pad space to fight the lurking challenges - 5 lbs/K of good calcitic lime, mixed with 2 lbs/K of Epsom Salts will buy you some headroom. Apply it at 7 lbs/K.
When Phosphorus is OK (your's is fine) and Potassium weak, I have to send you on a trek to fins Sulfate of Potash ("SOP", 0-0-50) -- not so easy. Apply it at 2 lbs/K, monthly starting in April.
Iron is fine.
In the micro's, only Boron is short. Want to deal with that?
Do you need a Nitrogen plan?
-
- Posts: 77
- Joined: July 17th, 2018, 10:13 am
- Location: Northen MA
- Grass Type: Front-SS Sunny Mix. Back-SS KGB Mix
- Lawn Size: 20000-1 acre
- Level: Novice
Re: Nick’s New Lawn Soil Test
Thanks Andy
I have 15 bags of BSF from my last house and 2 50lbs of Urea. Please recommend the amount of Borax I need to mix with the BSF.
Also, I'm getting sprouts from the KBG seeding. Do you think it's okay to winterize or skip it this year when the time comes?
I have 15 bags of BSF from my last house and 2 50lbs of Urea. Please recommend the amount of Borax I need to mix with the BSF.
Also, I'm getting sprouts from the KBG seeding. Do you think it's okay to winterize or skip it this year when the time comes?
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