Hammbone81 Soil Test Results - Fall 2019

[Hammbone81]

Below is my soil test results for this fall, 2019



This is a follow up to a little more than a year's worth of work following instructions as per my soil test post from 2018, seen here: viewtopic.php?f=11&t=24067&hilit=hammbone81

LAWN SPECS:
10,800ft²
KBG - 100%
Spec home built in 2017 (we've been there since Spring 2018)
Sod laid late season 2017 - laid directly on sandy soil with NO top soil.

FERTILIZER
I applied Ignition 13-13-13 AMS, Micros, 1% Mg monthly at 1lbN/M from July 2018 - Sept 2018, then again May 2019 - July 2019.
In late August 2019 I applied Anuvia GreenTRX (hybrid organic/synthetic with Milo as organic)
I put down Richlawn 5-2-0 organic fert twice at a very a low rate (4.5lb/M) once in May once in July

ORGANICS
I exclusively mulch mow
I'm having 8 tons of compost mechanically spread on my lawn today as I type this (10/15/19)
Leaves - practically non-existent in my new neighborhood.

FUNGICIDE
I STRUGGLE with leave spot. I've used two products this year. I started with Bayer Advanced Fungus Control, then stepped it up to HeadwayG.

IRRIGATION
I do not have an irrigation system (yet), but I busted my hump to keep things irrigated with sprinklers this year. I have a "standard operating procedure" and chart to keep track of what gets watered when and for how long. I even trained my wife and son on how to help.
An irrigation system is in the budget for next year and after daily sprinkler moves, I got my wife's approval!

OTHER
I've applied Soil Conditioner and KelpHelp a few times. Not near as much as I planned or wanted to.
I applied FAS once and was very happy with the results, but they only lasted maybe 2wks.

Overall, my biggest struggles are:
1) Turf color
2) BBDL
3) Turf Density (although, it's considerably better than last year!)

[andy10917]

Put a link to this thread into the Soil Test Interpretation Queue, so you have a place in line

[Hammbone81]

Done. Thank you in advance.

[Hammbone81]

This high pH is killing me! It has me looking into elemental sulfur in conjunction with my compost apps (maybe that's a mistake).
Following application rates per this article https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/ ... 94/ph.html, I would need 400lb of sulfur per 1,000ft² to shift my pH by 2, which is 100x more acidic than it currently is. That equates to applying elemental sulfur at a rate of 20lb/M every 3mo for the next 5yrs. It would take longer if I needed to take a break in the winter.

I'm sure I'm overlooking other aspects to this. I patiently await expert advice.

Thanks,
Hammbone81

[andy10917]

It's not your turn yet, but I have to comment on this...

Ugh! I managed to avoid using the toughest word in soil management last year because I didn't have multiple years of evidence. Now I have the evidence, and it ain't pretty.

Sit tight...

[bpgreen]

To add on to what Andy said, I read the article and it's talking about incorporating the sulfur into the soil to amend small beds.

Applying sulfur to the surface won't do anything but cost you time and money. I have a tree that gets chlorotic, and I use a bulb augur to drill holes around the drip line every few years and bury sulfur. But I'm targeting a single tree for that application. And it's only partially successful.

[andy10917]

That is, unfortunately, very likely a calcareous soil - there is far more Calcium sitting around just waiting to be part of the soil that it can't all go into the soil solution. The only way to know absolutely for sure would be to submit your soil on the next test run with instructions to run the test as an Ammonium Acetate test and see how the numbers change - but I'm pretty sure I know what it is going to say. Your description of "no topsoil" and yet the soil comes back with from the test as a "heavy soil" points to a calcareous situation. No amount of Sulfur is going to make a practical change.

Even though the results are badly skewed by the Calcium, you are short on Phosphorus and Potassium in real terms - get a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10 or 19-19-19 and post the NPK for monthly application rates.

There is no Magnesium shortage - again, that's the skewing at work.

The only way to get adequate Iron for good color is FAS applications. I know that doesn't last that long, but foliar is the only real solution here.

In the micro's, Boron and Copper are short -- are those to be addressed in your plan?

If the budget allows, do the Ammonium Acetate test in the Spring and let's prove the calcareous situation with unskewed numbers.

[Hammbone81]

Andy,
Thank you for your response.
Regarding balanced fertilizers, here is what I can get that is readily available to me in 50lb bags:
Award 10-10-10
Ignition 13-13-13 AMS, Micros, 1%Mg
Ignition 19-19-19 All Mineral

If you'd like to see label images of each, I'll have to do some legwork and get back to you.

I'm okay with FAS for now (...well maybe and for always, the way it sounds)

Regarding Boron & Copper - I'm interested in addressing these if you think it'll make a difference on the grand scheme of things? As long as it's not like trying to put out a forest fire with a drinking straw. Meaning, if my macroscopic problems are so big that these won't make a difference, is it worth my time/money? If it'll help, I'll address them.

I'll go ahead and do the Ammonium Acetate test. I can do it now if you think there's an advantage. Otherwise, I'll wait until spring.

Again, as always, thank you for your help!

[andy10917]

If the prices are comparable, use the 19-19-19 at 5 lbs/K monthly next Spring and the whole season.

In the micronutrients, it is never a case that the smaller amounts mean less-important. You eat lbs of carbs and protein, but if you ignore the tiny amounts of vitamins needed, see what happens. Same with lawns and gardens. Get Twenty Mules Team laundry soap for Boron, and Copper Sulfate from Amazon/EBAY - 3 tablespoons/K each every 60 days as outlined in the Micronutrient Application Guide.

You might as well do the AA test in the Spring at this point.

[Hammbone81]

Andy - thank you!
Regarding micronutrients; I read the FAQ. Since I'll be using 19-19-19, could I dissolve these micronutrient products in water and spray them? Or should I still use Milo for micros, OR should I try to blend them in with the 19-19-19?

[Hammbone81]

Another thing - prior to spreading compost, would it be advantageous to core aerate first?
I ask this, but I'll also say that I never core aerate due to unwanted weed pressure. I let soil conditioner act as my aeration.

[andy10917]

I hate aeration. It does nothing beyond filling the pockets of the person/owner of the aerator. I spent $250 on an aerator a dozen years ago - it it rotting beside the barn today.

[TimmyG]

Hammbone, the micronutrients should NOT be applied as a foliar spray. Also, I don't recall anyone ever claiming success with wetting a balanced fertilizer to stick micronutrient powders. Sounds like a recipe for disaster. Either stick with what is known to work well (Milorganite as the carrier) or search these forums for individuals' claims in using alternative carriers. Try adding "wheelbarrow" to your search terms to hone in on mixing advice.

[Hammbone81]

I was going to continue this post regarding porous ceramics (viewtopic.php?f=4&t=20590&p=282738&hili ... ic#p282594), but decided to ask my question here as it applies to my soil.

• 1) A local turf supply shop suggested I look into adding Profile Porous Ceramic (http://www.profileevs.com/products/soil-amendments) to my VERY sandy calcareous soil. I'm not willing to till it in. Does anyone have experience using it as a top dressing after aerating (Also, I haven't been a fan of aerating and have used the BL Soil Conditioner instead).

• 2) On the topic of aerating; I've also been researching Earthworks Products and specifically their aerification program (http://www.earthworksturf.com/programs/ ... y-program/) in an effort to boost my OM, microbial activity, and beneficial fungi. (It's interesting, they have a partnership with Logan Labs). Does anyone have experience with these products? It's a bit expensive, but no more than paying a guy to top dress with compost (which I just did last month).

[Oldschool]

Regarding micronutrients; I read the FAQ. Since I'll be using 19-19-19, could I dissolve these micronutrient products in water and spray them? Or should I still use Milo for micros, OR should I try to blend them in with the 19-19-19?

I blend micronutrients with sulphate of potash with great results. See no reason why 19-19-19 wouldn’t work just as well.

Give it a try and let us know...

[John P]

....Get Twenty Mules Team laundry soap for Boron, and Copper Sulfate from Amazon/EBAY - 3 tablespoons/K each every 60 days as outlined in the Micronutrient Application Guide. ...

Just double checking that the copper sulfate we want is "Copper Sulfate Pentahydrate?"

[andy10917]

That's fine. "Pentahydrate" means there are 5 water molecules attached.

[John P]

That's fine. "Pentahydrate" means there are 5 water molecules attached.

Thanks for that reply

Still on micronutrients, if directions call for 3 tblsp/k every 60 days, how do we judge how long to continue the treatment? Should we just keep going until the next soil test? Or should we set a target and then calculate how many ppm we have added over time so we know when to stop?

[andy10917]

Plans are generally made for one season or one year. If I don't think you'll make a whole year, I will generally say "make two applications" or similar.

Soil chemistry is far too complex to be able to predict the resulting PPM levels in advance.

[John P]

Plans are generally made for one season or one year. If I don't think you'll make a whole year, I will generally say "make two applications" or similar.
Soil chemistry is far too complex to be able to predict the resulting PPM levels in advance.

Thank you again for taking the time to answer my questions.
Since soil tests give targets or "desired values" for the CATIONS but not for the "trace elements," how do we know what ppm levels we are shooting for? It's not a lazy question, I searched for an answer first using the site tools, several different ways, plus read maybe 100 soil test posts in this forum, but couldnt find the answer.
Thanks again