Next time, just get the basic test, I'm using that for most of my answers below. My take on these things are a little different from others so if you find what I'm saying opaque or confusing, please ask. I tend to be a bit long-winded to make sure you understand what you paid for, and that you know what's going on in your lawn. Some people don't care. Recommendations are at the bottom if you seriously don't care about anything except what to add.
ME 27: This is inflated by the calcium levels in your soil, but I don't think there's too much doubt that you do have a heavier soil to begin with. What, exactly, is hard to say. You could do a jar test, but it would need to be done with vinegar, so if you do, don't put the lid on or the jar will explode. I'm going to mentally adjust this down to an ME of 15 for the purposes of working with your soil, but other readers might argue with that and there's plenty of latitude for argument on that point.
pH 8.2: High. It's not a barrier to a good lawn, although the deepest green hues will be difficult to achieve without spraying iron. Constantly. I wouldn't bother, if I were you. Grasses will grow fine in this, however, given what it's being caused by, which I talk about below. There are ways to generate high pH (pH alone doesn't actually tell you much) that can kill a lawn, but yours isn't caused that way, and so far I haven't seen many where that's the case.
OM 1.56%: Quite low. Given your very high pH, I'd like to see this go as high as possible, too. Because this is a new yard, low is not entirely unexpected! Always much mow your Bermuda, and feed it well (that 1 pound N per month is great). Feed organically if you want, either as that 1 pound, or in addition to it, and mulch mow any leaves you get. You can bring in leaves if you can get them, too. I'm good with any source of organics you want to use, really. Increasing OM will make your pH and the problems it can cause matter a bit less, and give the resources a few more places to bind and become available to the lawn (and your gardens, if any).
Sulfur 60: Entirely normal.
Phosphorus 50: Low, and at your pH, I'm just going to call this deficient. P doesn't unbind easily too far off a pH of about 6.5 or so (hence why it's the optimal garden and lawn pH), although small amounts will. You're pretty much stuck with your pH for the long-term, although adding organic matter will make it matter a bit less. For this, we use off the shelf Starter Fertilizer (any brand. Lesco and Vigoro tend to be fairly cheap for what you get). I made some recommendations below to start.
Calcium 88%: Yep, that's where some of the high pH is coming from, and the excess ME. It's actually sitting around in the soil as limestone. It's not a problem, but please avoid major sources of calcium--so no limestone. No calcium limestone. No calcite. Nothing like that. Minor things, like "contains 1% calcium" isn't going to be a problem in most cases.
Magnesium 5.4%: While it looks a bit low, I'm mentally doubling these numbers (well, not really, I'm doing more gymnastics than that). It's OK, it's just depressed considerably by the high calcium. Your plants can get the magnesium they need. None is required, and you should also avoid magnesium sources. No limestone, Epsom salt, dolomite, etc. But again, something with an incidental amount of magnesium isn't a problem.
Potassium 2.3%: Again, it's OK, just depressed by the calcium, and even the depressed number is within the OK range. Now that I'm back, people will readjust to the fact that I like higher K numbers, but in this case, there's no reason (or ability) to do that here. Your plants don't need the excess, and you don't have to avoid potassium sources. Soils just aren't that touchy in terms of potassium.
Sodium 0.89%: This is a little higher than I like to see. If you have softened water, turn off the softener before watering the lawn--always. It's cheaper to do that anyway. It's not really a problem, though. Make sure, when irrigating the lawn, to water deeply and infrequently to drive the sodium that's in the soil down deep below the root systems so it doesn't show up again. If it does continue to build up, there are ways to get rid of it, but they're not something we really want to do in your lawn.
Micronutrients: These are not my forte, except for boron and iron and...OK, except for zinc and copper and manganese in some cases.
Boron 0.83: Geez, perfect. A whisper on the high side, but that's all to the good at a high pH anyway.
Iron 33: Very low, but iron isn't going to be available at your pH. Over time, I'd add some iron using Milorganite and other sources as you stumble across them at the store cheaply and on sale, but don't go crazy and don't hope for much. Iron availability at a pH of 8+ is horrible, and never will be good. For good color...you're probably going to have to spray iron, which is tedious, time-consuming, and...well, I wouldn't bother. Even chelated iron isn't going to work well at that pH. If, over time, you can push that to 1000+ PPM, you might manage halfway decent color just from soil iron. That will take years, if not decades.
Manganese 80: Fine. Manganese counters iron, so this is also fighting you on color (iron should be greater than manganese, which is the one thing I would correct regarding iron).
Zinc, Copper: I'd like Andy or another micro specialist (I've been gone for a while) to read these. You absolutely need zinc, which will be zinc sulfate, and I'm 99% sure you need copper (copper sulfate), but I'm hesitant to call the final amounts. I do the math in my head and with your pH, my head is returning numbers that just don't make sense.
Recommendations:
July 1: Feed your Bermuda lawn with starter fertilizer at bag rate.
August 1: Feed your Bermuda lawn with starter fertilizer at bag rate.
September 1: Feed your Bermuda lawn with starter fertilizer at bag rate.
June 1, 2021: Feed your Bermuda lawn with starter fertilizer at bag rate.
