jskierko's 2020 Soil Test

[jskierko]

Background (taken mostly from my reno background): Moved into this house in 2012 (house had 1 prior owner, built in 2011). Yard was likely seeded with contractors mix or simple northern mix. I have overseeded a few years back with a Scott's Sun and Shade mix, so right now the lawn is a good mix of bluegrass, rye, and fine fescue (with some nasty clumping tall fescue mixed in). I got really into lawn care last year and I came across this site. Thank you for all the information and insight. My previous practices were cutting the yard (mostly bagging) once a week with disregard to the 1/3 rule and spot spraying weeds when areas exploded in the yard. I have become more diligent with pre-emergent applications, fertilization, and reacting to what my yard is displaying. Last year I installed a 14 zone irrigation system, top dressed entire yard with compost to add OM, followed Milorganite holiday applications, and went through aggressive fall nitrogen regimen. This year I added a preventative Serenade regimen (4 oz/k May-July), conditioned soil bi-weekly (4x thru June-July) with Kelp/Humic/SLS, and have experimented with PGR and foliar iron applications. I also threw down 10-10-10 at 10 lbs/K in both May and June. I have about 19k sq ft of turf, located just outside of Indianapolis.

Overall my current NoMix is probably one of the nicer lawns in the neighborhood due in part to a lot of the work I have been putting in over the last 1-2 years, but I want to take things to the next level.





Pics show Dec 2017 yard vs Dec 2019 yard. Although it looks like 2017 was rough for all surrounding yards as well, the visual differences are evident.

I am looking to develop more drought/disease resistance as certain areas have been plagued with evident stress. I see that my potassium is deficient, so possibly addition of SOP and any other recommendations you have as well (don't mind tackling micronutrients either if something stands out). I will post link in interpretation queue once post is active.

[andy10917]

You seem to have picked up numerous techniques in your year of following the site -- good for you!

The Back Yard and the Front Yard have some rather large differences - that's a bit unusual but not a problem. You were smart to get the AA test, as it's pretty clear that you're dealing with calcareous soil. No problem - there is nothing that I see that should prevent a nice lawn.

As I said, the soil is calcareous, with the requisite high pH and false-alarms that come with the territory. In the AA test, it still shows a fairly heavy nature. Both lawns (the Back better than the Front) show mediocre OM levels, but that is less critical when the soil is on the heavy side - the mineral side of the house will carry the day. Let's leave that alone for a bit, and get you on the path to the best soil for the lawn.

It's no surprise that the Calcium dominates both soils. The Magnesium shortage is actually OK in raw terms, and we don't want to push the pH any higher (which Magnesium certainly can do). I don't want to "chase the ratios" and make a tougher problem. Again, leave it for now.

But the Potassium can't be ignored. That shortage is real in both relative and row terms. Yup, you're right - you'll be adding Potassium. The question becomes "using what?" and the answer involves looking at the Phosphorus number. It's low on both lawns - but far worse on the Front. So, same treatment for both yards for Year 1, but the Back will switch in Year 2.

When both the Potassium and Phosphorus are low, we use a balanced fertilizer to get things to the point where you don't need everything in an NPK product. The Back Yard will probably exit this strategy in 2021, but the Front won't. Choose a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10, 19-19-19, etc and potst the NPK for application rate and frequency (probably monthly).

The Iron levels are a little low (Front) to OK (Back), but they are certainly both unavailable at pH numbers like your's. You will need to consider FAS foliar treatments (see in Articles/FAQ area) if you are looking for top color.

In the micro's, Boron and Zinc (Zinc is Front only) are low - is that open to discussion in 2020?

[jskierko]

Thanks for the analysis Andy!

You were smart to get the AA test, as it's pretty clear that you're dealing with calcareous soil.

I ran the test without AA first and saw the results. Having read through many of these, I went ahead and called Logan back within 5 minutes and gave them the nod to re-run AA test.

When both the Potassium and Phosphorus are low, we use a balanced fertilizer to get things to the point where you don't need everything in an NPK product. The Back Yard will probably exit this strategy in 2021, but the Front won't. Choose a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10, 19-19-19, etc and potst the NPK for application rate and frequency (probably monthly).

I will go with 10-10-10. Apply at 10 lbs/k monthly? Would you suggest starting this early Sept after applying Milo for wake-up in mid-August? Or should I just go right to the balanced fert?

I had intended to do weekly urea apps as I did last fall at 1lb 46-0-0 per K. Should I hold off on urea while applying 10-10-10 or factor in 1 lb of N being applied in 10-10-10?

The Iron levels are a little low (Front) to OK (Back), but they are certainly both unavailable at pH numbers like your's. You will need to consider FAS foliar treatments (see in Articles/FAQ area) if you are looking for top color.

I have Ferromec on hand and plan to continue applying next season. I used in conjunction with T-nex this year, but applied T-next at full rate pretty late into the season and had significant browning of blades.... lessen learned to start with lower app rates (or start earlier in season).

In the micro's, Boron and Zinc (Zinc is Front only) are low - is that open to discussion in 2020?

Definitely up for tackling micro's this season. I am re-seeding some areas this fall. Does that play a factor in where micro's are applied?

[andy10917]

I ran the test without AA first and saw the results. Having read through many of these, I went ahead and called Logan back within 5 minutes and gave them the nod to re-run AA test.

A Novice that can spot a calcareous soil - I'm suitably impressed.

I will go with 10-10-10. Apply at 10 lbs/k monthly? Would you suggest starting this early Sept after applying Milo for wake-up in mid-August? Or should I just go right to the balanced fert?

Yup. 10 lbs/K FOR SEPTEMBER. Then switch to the Fall Regimen, per your statement. There is some university data that says that late-season Potassium increases the likelihood of Snow Mold. No use tempting fate, especially if the Fall Regimen has worked for you. Go back to 10-10-10 in the Spring.

I have Ferromec on hand and plan to continue applying next season. I used in conjunction with T-nex this year, but applied T-next at full rate pretty late into the season and had significant browning of blades.... lessen learned to start with lower app rates (or start earlier in season).

That may be simple BBDL. Use what works for you.

Definitely up for tackling micro's this season. I am re-seeding some areas this fall. Does that play a factor in where micro's are applied?

Get Twenty Mule Team laundry soap for Boron and Zinc Sulfate from Amazon/EBAY. 3 tablespoons/K each every 60 days for the both with the Boron, only Twenty Mules for the Back at 3 tablespoons/K.

[jskierko]

A Novice that can spot a calcareous soil - I'm suitably impressed.

I guess I have "experimented" enough to change my level to "some experience".

That may be simple BBDL. Use what works for you.

I wish I could tell myself that was the case, but it was evident burn from the application. I watched the progress on my GDD calculator with the same vigilance that people watch the progress on a software update, just hoping to see progress at 100%, but disappointed to see only a few percent gained towards t-nex expiration. Luckily it grew out of it with no other major (fungal, etc) issues developing.

Get Twenty Mule Team laundry soap for Boron and Zinc Sulfate from Amazon/EBAY. 3 tablespoons/K each every 60 days for the both with the Boron, only Twenty Mules for the Back at 3 tablespoons/K.

Sounds great, I will use Milo as "carrier". Although my apps will be pretty straightforward, is there anything I should be aware of that is incompatible with B/Zn?

[andy10917]

I will use Milo as "carrier". Although my apps will be pretty straightforward, is there anything I should be aware of that is incompatible with B/Zn?

Read the Micronutrient Application Guide and follow it. Boron has a synergistic relationship with Calcium (no shortage of Calcium in your soil !!). There are no antagonistic relationships of note.

Your soil may be a good candidate for Humates, given some of the "evident stress" info you provided. We are currently doing an experiment with several members related to Humates in a calcareous soil environment, with a good measure of success so far. Let's discuss that next Spring.