NutterButter 2020 Soil Test

Learn how improving your soil can lead to a better looking lawn
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NutterButter
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NutterButter 2020 Soil Test

Post by NutterButter » August 14th, 2020, 11:10 am

Hello,

Image

House section is 3200 sq ft. Driveway section is 2500 sq ft. Both a ryegrass mix. I have irrigation. I cut it twice a week if not more (during growing season) at the highest setting. Both sections have a little bit of a slope and are full sun. These are the two sections of my yard that I want to look the nicest so give me the best approach. I did my first application of KH/BLSC (4 oz/1k) the other day and will continue that every two weeks until late fall. I also intend on doing a compost tea treatment in the fall and applying a bunch of OM via leaves.

The house section is in pretty bad shape. I applied grubex late May, Disease X 5/1, Bayer Advanced Fungus 6/1, Disease X 7/1 but I have some significant sections that died. The blades on my tractor were pretty dull in the spring so not sure if that contributed to it or if I'm watering too much or the wrong time (typically water that section at 3am).

The driveway section looks a lot better although there's definitely room for improvement.

Thank you for any help you can provide.

NutterButter
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Re: NutterButter 2020 Soil Test

Post by NutterButter » August 14th, 2020, 11:29 am

Here's the actual image. Noob here. And if its not too much trouble, could you provide a nitrogen component.

Image

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andy10917
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Re: NutterButter 2020 Soil Test

Post by andy10917 » August 15th, 2020, 8:05 am

Your soil test shows a soil that is pretty much the same in the two tested zones - there is no need to perform two tests (or maintain two regimens) in the future. It's a moderately sandy soil, but not so sandy as to be an issue. The application of mulched Fall leaves, compost and/or peat moss will raise the organic matter in your soil over time and continued effort - the OM ranges from the upper end of mediocre to the lower end of OK-but-not-great. Attention here will be rewarded with better retention of nutrients and water.

In the cations, I see a situation where the cations are pushing the pH to 7.0 - 7.1, which is higher than the native soils of northern NJ. Have you been applying Lime as annual practice, just because "that's what you do to help the lawn"? If so, stop it - you've done an overshoot of the pH. What town are you in? I know the soils of northern NJ (I work in Montvale/Woodcliff Lake NJ, and live 15 miles north into NY).

Continuing with the cations, Calcium is a bit high, Magnesium is OK and Potassium is quite poor. When Potassium is very low, I look to the Phosphorus number to see if it is also low - if it is then there is a easy regimen for combining Nitrogen/Phosphorus/Potassium with a single application. Your soil is low in Phosphorus, but nowhere near as short as the Potassium. This means we start on one regimen for about a year, and then switch to a more complex regimen (more work) that will push just the Potassium number. We'll do it that way. Locate a "balanced fertilizer" like 10-10-10, 19-19-19, etc. Often sold as "garden fertilizer" or "all-purpose fertilizer", you can find it at big-box stores. Pick one and post the NPK for application rates and frequency.

Iron is moderately low, but you're at the upper limit of the pH that will keep Iron available to plants. This affects color in the lawn.

In the micro's, Boron and Zinc are low. Do you wish to address that in 2020?

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Re: NutterButter 2020 Soil Test

Post by NutterButter » August 15th, 2020, 8:37 am

The difference between the two sections of lawn is striking so I went with the two tests just to rule out any differences in the soil. I was actually hoping to see a greater difference to help explain the difference in the results since everything else as far as maintenance is the same. I'm in Denville which is more central northern NJ. What's your in person rate in case I want you to stop by and give me an in person diagnosis? Ha. Three years ago, I had a soil test done by Rutgers which determined my pH to be at 5.85. I did a few applications of lime since then (actually did one this spring) at 50lb/1k which is the rate the soil test recommended. I'm a little surprised to see that it jumped that high since I was doing 4 applications of the scotts (3 green, 1 red late fall) which along with the extensive watering I do I thought causes pH to drop but maybe that's just something my failing mind has decided to make up.

I'll see what balanced fertilizer they have at the depot and report back. As far as the micro's, I'm willing to do anything that's going to make a noticeable difference. If I had a great lawn and addressing the micro's would give me Yankee stadium, maybe I'd pass but if you're seeing something that could be causing the problems that I have, I want to rectify it so that its not sabotaging everything else that I'm doing. Thanks again for taking the time to do this.

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andy10917
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Re: NutterButter 2020 Soil Test

Post by andy10917 » August 15th, 2020, 9:40 am

What's your in person rate in case I want you to stop by and give me an in person diagnosis?
If you have to ask, you can't afford it. I can design a $10MM Information Analytics solution for you if you have your own Pharma company, though.
I had a soil test done by Rutgers which determined my pH to be at 5.85. I did a few applications of lime since then (actually did one this spring) at 50lb/1k which is the rate the soil test recommended. I'm a little surprised to see that it jumped that high
It might be that the standard Lime is just arriving at the test depth. It's possible, but a little unusual. We'll see with your 2021 retest, and adjust if needed. That is a big jump for the length of time involved. A 5.85 pH would be more typical of a native soil in your area. Time will tell.
I thought causes pH to drop but maybe that's just something my failing mind has decided to make up.


A common misunderstanding. There are 2,000,000 lbs of soil in an acre (to 6" deep). If you think a slightly acidic 40 lb lag of fertilizer are going to change the pH of 2,000,000 lbs of soil, then go and throw a few tablespoons of salt into the ocean and see if it makes the ocean saltier. "Not so much" is my predicted outcome.
As far as the micro's, I'm willing to do anything that's going to make a noticeable difference.
It doesn't work like that, at all. To understand it properly, you need to read the "Law of the Minimum". Proper photosynthesis and growth occurs when all required nutrients are available to make the processes work. If one is missing, it doesn't mean that you can make up for it by applying extra amounts of others. For example, applying Zinc to your lawn isn't going to make a visible change to your lawn alone, but lack of Zinc could cause the lawn to not grow well and get stressed and diseased easier. It's like an analogy in humans - Vitamin C isn't going to make you healthier, but if you have no Vitamin C for a period of time, you could get sicker and even get Scurvy, Adding more Vitamin D would not fix it. Do not make the mistake of thinking that because the amounts of micronutrients are small that they are any less important than nutrients applied in larger amounts.


NutterButter
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Re: NutterButter 2020 Soil Test

Post by NutterButter » August 15th, 2020, 10:15 am

As a matter of fact, I do own my own pharma company. I wish. I probably wouldn't be having this conversation if I did.
andy10917 wrote:
August 15th, 2020, 9:40 am
It doesn't work like that, at all. To understand it properly, you need to read the "Law of the Minimum". Proper photosynthesis and growth occurs when all required nutrients are available to make the processes work. If one is missing, it doesn't mean that you can make up for it by applying extra amounts of others. For example, applying Zinc to your lawn isn't going to make a visible change to your lawn alone, but lack of Zinc could cause the lawn to not grow well and get stressed and diseased easier. It's like an analogy in humans - Vitamin C isn't going to make you healthier, but if you have no Vitamin C for a period of time, you could get sicker and even get Scurvy, Adding more Vitamin D would not fix it. Do not make the mistake of thinking that because the amounts of micronutrients are small that they are any less important than nutrients applied in larger amounts.
So a chain is only as strong as its weakest link. Lesson learned. That being said, what should I be doing to address my Boron and Zinc deficiencies?

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andy10917
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Re: NutterButter 2020 Soil Test

Post by andy10917 » August 15th, 2020, 10:42 am

Yup. The photosynthesis and growth process is something like 95 steps and reactions long - if something is required and missing, symptoms or disease can occur.

For the Boron and Zinc, get Twenty Mule Team laundry soap from the grocery and Zinc Sulfate from EBAY/Amazon. Apply each at three tablespoons/K every 60 days, as outlined in the Micronutrient Application Guide. Don't apply for more than one year without retesting. Boron is a notorious leacher, and will probably need to be applied on-and-off indefinitely.

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Re: NutterButter 2020 Soil Test

Post by NutterButter » August 15th, 2020, 11:18 am

Can these just be mixed in with the kh/blsc application I'm doing or is it something that needs to be applied separately?

As far as a 2021 test, should I do one in the spring or is the same time next year ok?

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Re: NutterButter 2020 Soil Test

Post by andy10917 » August 15th, 2020, 11:30 am

No, a foliar application cannot be done at the same rate as a spreader application.

Spring soil tests are best, because the plan is good for the full season. In your case we're also looking to confirm that the pH test was not a fluke due to a lime application.

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Re: NutterButter 2020 Soil Test

Post by NutterButter » August 15th, 2020, 11:44 am

andy10917 wrote:
August 15th, 2020, 11:30 am
No, a foliar application cannot be done at the same rate as a spreader application.
Can you elaborate on this? Doesn't it just matter that I get the 3 tb applied per 1k. Why does it matter that its applied mixed in with a granular vs a gallon of water which is what i have my sprayer calibrated at for 1k? Your patience with my ignorance is much appreciated.
andy10917 wrote:
August 15th, 2020, 11:30 am
Spring soil tests are best, because the plan is good for the full season. In your case we're also looking to confirm that the pH test was not a fluke due to a lime application.
Ok, spring test it is

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Re: NutterButter 2020 Soil Test

Post by andy10917 » August 15th, 2020, 1:31 pm

Doesn't it just matter that I get the 3 tb applied per 1k

No. Have you every wondered why you add fertilizer to the soil in amounts measured by lbs/K, but Miracle Gro goes down in amounts measured by a few tablespoons/K? It's because the Miracle Gro is applied by a foliar application (sprayed on the blades) and the regular fertilizer is added to the soil. The plants (grass) absorb nutrients directly through the blades, not just through the roots (during foliar applications).

Micronutrients are applied in much smaller smaller amounts than major nutrients, and some (especially Boron) are required in tiny amounts, but toxic to the plants at higher rates - most times 1 PPM is what we're targeting, and there are plants that find Boron toxic at just beyond 2 PPM. When applied in a foliar application, the amount taken in by the plant all at once may easily take in much more than the targeted amount. Also, Boron works in the soil with Calcium at a particular ratio, and we target both the ratio and the raw amount for that - all calculated with reactions, synergism and antagonism between nutrients considered as part of the soil environment.

The amounts of micronutrients supplied in plans we calculate are specifically correct for soil (granular) applications, and generally much higher than would be found in a foliar product. Even when targeting the soil, the amounts applied in a single application will not raise the micronutrient levels to the targeted range - it is divided into smaller applications through the 60-day cycling.

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Re: NutterButter 2020 Soil Test

Post by NutterButter » August 15th, 2020, 2:02 pm

Finally found that Micronutrient Application Guide. Was about to reply that I see the answer to my question in there to save you the time, but you beat me to it. Still good to have such a thorough explanation of the why and not just the how. Hopefully this isn't a dumb question, but can I stretch out the Milo over a larger area using still the same rate for the micros to save a few bucks. The guide talks about increasing the rate of the milo while keeping the same rate for the micros but not the opposite so I wanted to make sure I wouldn't be screwing something up. Not a huge deal with the two areas I'm targeting at the moment, but if I decide to move on to the remainder of my property at some point, things will get a little pricey.

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Re: NutterButter 2020 Soil Test

Post by andy10917 » August 15th, 2020, 2:27 pm

The only purpose of the Milorganite is to spread out the 3 tablespoons of each of the micro's over a full 1000 sq ft. It has no other purpose, other than a nice light fertilizing. Be careful of the amount of water you use to spritz the micro's to the Milorganite - just a little too much water will make for an unpleasant task. There are more than a couple members that have experienced that, but very few will raise their hand and tell of the enjoyment they experienced.

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Re: NutterButter 2020 Soil Test

Post by NutterButter » August 27th, 2020, 9:00 pm

andy10917 wrote:
August 15th, 2020, 8:05 am
Locate a "balanced fertilizer" like 10-10-10, 19-19-19, etc. Often sold as "garden fertilizer" or "all-purpose fertilizer", you can find it at big-box stores. Pick one and post the NPK for application rates and frequency.
NPK is 10-10-10. I'm gonna be reseeding a part (not too big but big enough to mention) of this area of my lawn that appears to have been hit by fungus so please advise if I should stick to a starter fertilizer for the reseed area or just do the whole thing with the all purpose.

I applied the micros on 8/20. I'll make another application on 10/20. When should my first application be in the spring?

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Re: NutterButter 2020 Soil Test

Post by andy10917 » August 27th, 2020, 9:16 pm

Stick with the plan. 10-10-10 goes down at 10 lbs/K.

Spring application go down when the grass is actively growing.

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Re: NutterButter 2020 Soil Test

Post by NutterButter » August 27th, 2020, 9:24 pm

Sounds good. I'm going to apply tomorrow. Should I make another application in 6 weeks or so and then call it a season?

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Re: NutterButter 2020 Soil Test

Post by andy10917 » August 28th, 2020, 7:47 am

That's a game-time call by you. There is some evidence that Potassium fertilizers can increase the incidence of Snow Mold when applied late in the season. You have to balance that against the need to improve a pretty-severe case of Potassium shortages. If you elect to hold on the October 10-10-10, you could switch to fast-release Urea for October. Your game-time call....

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Re: NutterButter 2020 Soil Test

Post by NutterButter » September 23rd, 2020, 8:24 pm

I'll probably just go with the 10-10-10 for the october fertilizer application only b/c 10-10-10 was heads and it landed on heads. I really have no other reasoning since I don't particularly know the risks or rewards with either approach beyond knowing the snow mold is bad and potassium is good. As far as the boron and zinc application that I need to do at the same time, can I mix that with the fertilizer or will that not mix well so stick with the milo? Is there anything that I can do to mitigate the chance of snow mold such as applying a fungicide or I read something about bagging clippings and leaves in late fall (though I was intending to do a lot of leaf mulching to increase the OM)?

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Re: NutterButter 2020 Soil Test

Post by andy10917 » September 24th, 2020, 7:24 am

I published the Micronutrient Application Guide as the best advice I know on applying micronutrients. I do not offer alternative advice because there are too many variables that I can't know - fertilizers can be coated/uncoated, prills or granular, etc. Born and Zinc can be applied at the same time.

As far as Snow Mold prevention, there are lots of theories and scant amounts of proof that one is better than another. The best advice is to get the grass down to a HOC of 2.5" or a bit lower by the end of season to avoid matting.

About leave bagging in late Fall - I have mulched up to 30" of leaves over the course of the Fall, and never had an incident where mulching and Snow Mold ever seemed to be related.

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Re: NutterButter 2020 Soil Test

Post by NutterButter » September 24th, 2020, 8:22 am

I'm picking up what you're putting down. I'll post a test in the early spring. Hopefully, you'll have time to analyze it prior to my first fert application. I know you're busy that time of the year and I'm the low man on the totem poll. Enjoy your fall.

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