bsnr Soil Test: September 2020

[bsnr]

Hello,

I moved into to a new construction house at the end of September 2019. That is when fescue sod was put down. I spoon fed the grass with urea until the first frost at 0.5 lb N/1,000 sq ft per week and then a "winterizer" application of 1 lb N/1,000 sq ft when the grass stopped growing. I have not put anything else down since then.

I have been watering 0.5" every 4 days. I tried to do the 1" once a week but a few spots always started to dry out after 4 days. I have been cutting the grass weekly. I didn't put any fertilizer down this spring for fear of brown patch. I would have put down Milorganite if I did. A neighbor down the street suffered from some brown patch this year. I didn't notice any in my lawn. Overall through the summer, the grass has looked alright. Maybe slightly pale once summer kicked in. It looked great in the spring.

I took advantage of the long weekend this past weekend and aerated and overseeded with The Hogan Blend TTTF. First time talking on the phone with Bob. Such a nice guy. I didn't put down any fertilizer at seeding since I plan to wait until after the first mowing in about 2.5 weeks from now. Pending the soil test results I had planned to put down a starter fertilizer then.

My goal for the soil is to improve it for optimal grass growth and health with near, if not, the best methods.

Please advise on soil results.

Thank you!

[andy10917]

Make sure to place a Link in the Soil Test Interpretation Queue, pointing to this thread

[andy10917]

Structurally, you've got a soil that is a little sandier than a Loam soil (Loams start at a TEC of 8 typically), and an organic matter level in the higher end of poor, almost to mediocre. The regular application of compost, mulched leaves and/or peat moss will improve that soil and move both the TEC into Loam territory and the OM% upward - this will keep applications of nutrients from leaching away and wasting your investment of money and time.

In the cations, you've got a bit of a challenge - the Calcium is high and the Magnesium/Potassium are low. The combo is causing a pH of 7.2, which is at the point where Iron becomes unavailable to the grass. We'll leave the Magnesium alone for now (it would raise the pH more), but the Potassium doesn't drive the pH nearly as much and it is quite deficient.

The Phosphorus is also quite low, and when both Phosphorus and Potassium are low, we use a "balanced fertilizer" like 10-10-10, 19-19-19, etc since we can address both and also get the needed Nitrogen all in one application. Find a balanced fertilizer and post the NPK for application rates and frequency.

Iron is just a pinch below adequate, but as mentioned above is rather unavailable at your pH. You may want to consider working some Milorganite into your regimen, or look into foliar FAS treatments if color is lacking.

In the micro's, Boron and Zinc are needed - do you want to address those as part of this plan?

[bsnr]

Thanks, Andy!

How often is regular in this case for adding compost, mulched leaves and/or peat moss? Is one better than the other and how much should be put down?

I can get 50 pound bags of 15-15-15 from the CO-OP. I think I'd like to "spoon feed" the nitrogen this Fall like last year at 0.5 lb N/1,000 sq ft per week until the first frost. With this fertilizer that would be about 3.3 lb/1,000 sq ft which would also supply 0.5 lb of P & K /1,000 sq ft each week. Is this okay for the P & K?

Where would be the best place to work Milorganite in given the above?

Yes, I would like to address Boron and Zinc.

Thanks again!

[bsnr]

After doing some reading about not applying more than 1 lb of P or K in a 30 day period, I'm thinking of alternating between 15-15-15 and 46-0-0 for my weekly applications this Fall.

[andy10917]

Both P and K sources are already calculated for a max of 1 lb/K. For example, Sulfate of Potash is 0-0-50, meaning that 2 lb/K yield at 50% one lb/K of Potassium.