M's Soil Test

Learn how improving your soil can lead to a better looking lawn
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Irisbergamot
Posts: 68
Joined: August 24th, 2018, 6:54 pm
Location: Ontario, Canada
Grass Type: KBG, TTF
Lawn Size: 1000-3000
Level: Some Experience

M's Soil Test

Post by Irisbergamot » October 23rd, 2020, 4:42 pm

Image

1000 sqft
Northern Mix with TTTF over seed last 2 years.
Medium size Red Oak. 4-6 hours direct sun.
1" water / week via sprinkler. (1.5" during heat of summer).
Located 1 hour north of Toronto, Canada.
Mulch mowing maintained at 2.25-3.25" (1/3 rule).
Seeking Best Approach.

Prodiamine, Tenacity, 24D, Triclopyr on hand
1.5 bag of Milo on hand with access to equivalent 4-4-0
25-5-10 + 2.5% Mg on hand
24-0-6 + 2.0% Mg on hand

(same protocols used with back yard. back yard grows 3x faster and thrives compared to the front which holds color less, grows slower and over the last 2 seasons has suffered with a lot of dye off coming into the fall - not just normal "shedding").

(I will post a link to the que line once this post is approved).

Thanks!!!

Irisbergamot
Posts: 68
Joined: August 24th, 2018, 6:54 pm
Location: Ontario, Canada
Grass Type: KBG, TTF
Lawn Size: 1000-3000
Level: Some Experience

Re: M's Soil Test

Post by Irisbergamot » October 24th, 2020, 9:34 am

Currently in "the pause" - aggressive fall N this season.
Top growth normally ceases mid November.
Spring soil temp 50, normally mid April.
Fall soil temp 70, normally mid August.

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andy10917
Posts: 29739
Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
Location: NY (Lower Hudson Valley)
Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
Lawn Size: 1 acre-2 acre
Level: Advanced

Re: M's Soil Test

Post by andy10917 » October 24th, 2020, 10:03 am

This one is a challenge.

The test results show that the soil is right at the upper boundary of loam soil, edging to a heavy soil at a TEC of almost 15. The OM level is good but not great.

The main issue is the Calcium level, and there is no real way to "correct it". With a Base Saturation of almost 89%, even with the other cations being short, the pH (which is driven by the cations) is pushed all the way to 8.0. Basically, in your situation you need to adjust your practices and accommodate the reality.

Part of the challenge is that while the Magnesium is on the low side, that has to be balanced against the fact the Magnesium is the strongest of the nutrients pushing pH higher - and you don't want the pH higher than it is.

Your Potassium and Phosphorus levels are quite low - enough to affect growth. The fertilizers that you have on-hand are not the ones that will fix your problems. You need Potassium and Phosphorus at much higher levels - that means a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10, 19-19-19, etc. Often sold as "garden fertilizer" or "general-purpose fertilizer", it applies more of the other nutrients. It's too late to apply them now, but after the grass wakes up in Spring (naturally), apply the balanced fertilizer monthly. Pick one and post the NPK for application rate.

I'd stay away from Magnesium applications for 2021 - we'll deal with that later.

For improved color, research FAS (Ferrous Ammonium Sulfate) foliar applications. While you have a pretty good level of Iron, none of it is available at your pH. Luckily, the lawn size is small enough to not make a ton of work for FAS apps.

We'll pass on the micronutrients for now - there are bigger fish to fry.

I know you my be disappointed that this is not the comprehensive "best approach" you were hoping for to address everything at once, but your money and effort would be wasted if you tried to fix other items before attending to the rather gross deficiencies first. We'll get there over time.

PS: I can't speak to the differences between the front and back yards, as I have no test results from the back yard to compare

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andy10917
Posts: 29739
Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
Location: NY (Lower Hudson Valley)
Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
Lawn Size: 1 acre-2 acre
Level: Advanced

Re: M's Soil Test

Post by andy10917 » October 24th, 2020, 10:09 am

Currently in "the pause" - aggressive fall N this season.
Top growth normally ceases mid November.
OK, this was posted while I was writing up the interpretation.

Finish with the Winterizing app and pick up the recommended new regimen in the Spring. Let the grass wake up on its own.

Irisbergamot
Posts: 68
Joined: August 24th, 2018, 6:54 pm
Location: Ontario, Canada
Grass Type: KBG, TTF
Lawn Size: 1000-3000
Level: Some Experience

Re: M's Soil Test

Post by Irisbergamot » October 24th, 2020, 11:33 am

Firstly Andy, let me just say thank you. Truly.
Gross deficiencies first, got it.
15-15-15 on hand. Application rate?
I'll study up on FAS foliar.
Do you think these interventions will make some observable improvements?

(side note, tentative spring over seed may still be in play, happy these interventions wouldn't interfere).

Lastly Andy, thank you again. Truly.


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andy10917
Posts: 29739
Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
Location: NY (Lower Hudson Valley)
Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
Lawn Size: 1 acre-2 acre
Level: Advanced

Re: M's Soil Test

Post by andy10917 » October 24th, 2020, 12:09 pm

For 15-15-15, it's about 6.5 lbs/K, monthly except July 1 - August 15th.
Do you think these interventions will make some observable improvements?
Yes. You should start to see some change after 2-3 monthly applications.

Irisbergamot
Posts: 68
Joined: August 24th, 2018, 6:54 pm
Location: Ontario, Canada
Grass Type: KBG, TTF
Lawn Size: 1000-3000
Level: Some Experience

Re: M's Soil Test

Post by Irisbergamot » October 24th, 2020, 5:50 pm

Final thing

I've got a bunch of liquid humid acid from leonardite 6%

Should I even bother?

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andy10917
Posts: 29739
Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
Location: NY (Lower Hudson Valley)
Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
Lawn Size: 1 acre-2 acre
Level: Advanced

Re: M's Soil Test

Post by andy10917 » October 24th, 2020, 6:29 pm

Use it up - don't expect much in the way of results.

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