Howdy, neighbor. With a reno in the plan, and with the limited changes you have coming, I'm going to recommend something I usually don't--an accelerated change. In this case, even in the areas where you don't renovate, it has very few consequences (if any). Your soil actually looks good.
Since I think (know) this is your first soil test, I give you the entire thing broken out line by line (for what's important).
ME 14.5: Probably a silty soil where you are, but it may include some clay. I have the same (no clay, though). It's a wonderful soil to grow grass or anything else in, and can support anything up to a forest.
pH 7.5: Target is usually 6.2 to 6.5, but this isn't out of range for a great lawn and it's nothing to worry about. It just means you won't be adding lime for the foreseeable future. Grasses are perfectly happy at this pH, but may not attain their best green color without being sprayed with iron (even surface-applied iron becomes questionable at this pH).
OM 6.4%: Extremely good. While no special effort needs to be made, certainly mulch mow and mow in your fall leaves to maintain this. You can certainly feed organically if you want, of course.
Sulfur 26: Completely normal and expected.
Phosphorus 261: Exactly on-target. For your pH, my target would be 250. I literally couldn't hit the target any better than that. No phosphorus is required or desired, and you won't need to use starter fertilizer when planting, it's unnecessary.
Calcium 72%: On paper a bit high and helping to add to that slightly high pH, but not a problem. Grasses don't care about a little extra calcium in the soil. Most plants are fine with it, actually, but evergreens may suffer a little (most will adjust, but rhododendrons and the like may show signs of chlorosis).
Magnesium 20%: High, and definitely adding to your pH. Definitely avoid significant magnesium sources, which is really easy because it's "dolomitic limestone or Epsom salt" and that's about it.
Magnesium at this level and proportion to Ca can make your soil tight and feel like clay. Check the Soil Conditioner article for some help on that if that's the case.
Potassium 2.9%: It's actually fine saturation-wise, but a little low in the soil. Given that it's competing with magnesium and calcium, I'd like to boost this a bit in your soil, and we have the opportunity to do it before you renovate. We use potassium sulfate to do this (sulfate of potash is another name) but people are having trouble finding that at reasonable prices. I'm OK with potassium chloride if that's what you can get. I'll give amounts for both below as I'm fine applying either at the same rate in this one case; you're not that short.
Sodium 1.3%: What is it with the high sodium lately? It's not awful, but bears watching. If it gets worse, we can do something about it. Sodium at this level won't cause an issue, but with your EC, it's starting to get a little concerning. It's a useless ion (for the most part; some plants require it in trace amounts) that pushes pH up and is toxic in large quantities. I wouldn't want to see this hit 2%.
Trace Elements: Every one is absolutely perfect, and I'm not sure how you managed that one. Let's just not worry about it.
You can always add more iron to your soil to improve green color, but again, at your pH that's borderline on how well it works. Still, if you want to feed with Milorganite or something else with a lot of iron, it might help and can't hurt. I made no recommendation as to this below.
Recommendations (with renovation coming):
April 15: Apply 2 pounds of either potassium chloride or potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.
May 15: Apply 2 pounds of either potassium chloride or potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.
June 15: Apply 2 pounds of either potassium chloride or potassium sulfate per thousand square feet.
Notes: I wouldn't normally slap the soil quite that hard, but with the reno coming, I'm fine with it. If you don't get the potassium by April, simply apply the third dose in July--but irrigate well afterward, or apply it immediately before a good rainfall is expected. If you cancel the reno, I might be inclined to change this, but it's really not that much of an issue as long as it gets watered in well.
