Learn how improving your soil can lead to a better looking lawn
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southern-ct-4
- Posts: 645
- Joined: May 7th, 2018, 3:31 pm
- Location: Southern CT (6b)
- Grass Type: PR/FF/KBG
- Lawn Size: 10000-20000
- Level: Some Experience
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by southern-ct-4 » June 3rd, 2022, 9:52 am
Here are my 2022 results (samples from all over yard, front and back). I also linked to prior tests for reference. Apparently I didn't do tests the last couple of years, I don't recall why (probably due to covid and not wanting to go shop for as many products as normal)
I took this year's sample on May 28, after having put down the following this year:
- 6 x 32lb bags of Milo (5 in front yard, just 1 in back yard, as that has become the puppy's yard for now) on 5/16
- 1 x 54lb bag of mag-i-cal on front yard on 5/16
- 2 x bags (1.5 front and .5 back) of Scotts starter fert with tenacity on 5/27
I know my timing wasn't great and should have done the soil sample sooner, and that my applications weren't necessarily the best/were poorly timed in general, but I'm more limited than normal with time this year (both related to puppy and work), so I'm getting stuff down when I have a chance.
2018:
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=24434
2019:
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=24813
Thanks as always!
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southern-ct-4
- Posts: 645
- Joined: May 7th, 2018, 3:31 pm
- Location: Southern CT (6b)
- Grass Type: PR/FF/KBG
- Lawn Size: 10000-20000
- Level: Some Experience
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by southern-ct-4 » June 3rd, 2022, 11:13 am
I wanted to add that overall the lawn looks pretty good, though a bit uneven in color/growth (partly due to different grasses/reseeding over past few years, but also some spots are just not quite right). Essentially, a few areas here and there are much lighter (and also some browning) and just not growing that well (I'm behind on mowing and most of the lawn is 4-5" right now, but some areas are barely 3" and just not growing much). In addition, amidst and around the not as nice areas are areas that are looking great. And yes, when I next mow I will mow high so as not to cut off too much (and will then cut a bit lower a few days later).
I also have a lot of mushrooms this year that continue to grow/come back after I mow over them.
Lots more clover this year as well which I need to start spraying (hard for me to spray as much as I used to, now with a puppy on my hands). I did spray some tenacity on poa annua and triv, which I'm now trying to hit with Certainty.
All in all lawn is pretty good, just looking to continue making it better/maintaining overall soil quality.
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MorpheusPA
- Posts: 18131
- Joined: March 5th, 2009, 7:32 pm
- Location: Zone 6 (Eastern PA)
- Grass Type: Elite KBG
- Lawn Size: 10000-20000
- Level: Advanced
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by MorpheusPA » June 3rd, 2022, 12:15 pm
There are no actual major issues with the soil, and "neglecting" it for a few years really doesn't show. In fact, your organic matter level is extraordinarily good.
Magnesium is mildly off, but it's just starting to show in the saturation. Boron stinks, but boron usually stinks in soils that get a lot of rainfall, which is most of the Northeast.
If you want to get some Epsom salt, go ahead. It won't harm the puppy, although overconsumption (which won't happen from eating what's on the lawn) can cause a notable laxative effect... You'd want about 2 pounds per thousand total, if you can swing it. Fertilizer grade is fine.
And you know the drill with the Micronutrient Application Guide. We'll treat this as deficient in terms of boron, because it is. Fortunately, grasses aren't terribly sensitive, but this is moving into the range where yes, it's showing. I'm squeezing 3 apps this year. You can feel free to use minimal Milo or Bay State to get the app down if you want.
Recommendations
June: Apply 5 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax in Milorganite (or Bay State) carrier per thousand square feet as per the Micronutrient Application guide. Apply 2 pounds of Epsom salt per thousand square feet.
Mid-August: Apply 5 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax in Milorganite (or Bay State) carrier per thousand square feet as per the Micronutrient Application guide.
Late September: Apply 5 tablespoons of 20 Mule Team Borax in Milorganite (or Bay State) carrier per thousand square feet as per the Micronutrient Application guide.
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southern-ct-4
- Posts: 645
- Joined: May 7th, 2018, 3:31 pm
- Location: Southern CT (6b)
- Grass Type: PR/FF/KBG
- Lawn Size: 10000-20000
- Level: Some Experience
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by southern-ct-4 » June 3rd, 2022, 4:00 pm
Awesome, thanks so much. I still have borax from a few years ago (been in the garage). Is it still good if it didn't get wet/clumpy? I actually have some epsom salt leftover as well I think.
Also, I didn't actually neglect it for a couple years, I just didn't do soil tests. I still put down plenty of milo, mag-i-cal, probably scotts starter, etc... (I'd have to check my file to confirm exactly) and possibly even a little epsom or borax just because i had them sitting around...
In any case, thanks again for the info/recommendations!
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southern-ct-4
- Posts: 645
- Joined: May 7th, 2018, 3:31 pm
- Location: Southern CT (6b)
- Grass Type: PR/FF/KBG
- Lawn Size: 10000-20000
- Level: Some Experience
Post
by southern-ct-4 » June 3rd, 2022, 4:09 pm
Also, just to confirm, since I have 20k sf I would use 100 tablespoons of borax each application, which is 6.25 cups. And Epsom salt would be 40 pounds.
Assuming that is correct, is it ok to combine 1 cup of borax with one bag of milo (and I'll use 6 bags of milo)? Or is that too much borax per bag of milo?
Likewise, for the 40 lbs of epsom, can I mix about 6.5 lbs with one bag of milo (and I'll use 6 bags of milo)?
Lastly, can I do the borax and epsom together? Or even if I can, is it a bad idea as it might affect mixing it all thoroughly together/spreading it out through the milo?
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MorpheusPA
- Posts: 18131
- Joined: March 5th, 2009, 7:32 pm
- Location: Zone 6 (Eastern PA)
- Grass Type: Elite KBG
- Lawn Size: 10000-20000
- Level: Advanced
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by MorpheusPA » June 4th, 2022, 10:54 am
If you can get all this to combine, go right ahead. There's no interaction. Although that's a LOT of stuff. I usually suggest doing the best you can with the Epsom salt (a handheld whirlygig spreader will handle that just fine--you can get them at Home Depot or, if you're real good, hand spread the Epsom salt). And yes, 1 cup per bag of Milo is fine if you can manage it. With enough damp, you should be able to manage it. You'll end up with really moist Milo, but if you let it dry out a bit before use, it'll work.
Borax is fine even if it did get damp. Just drop the chunks in a bag and take a hammer or meat tenderizer to them. Anything that returns to powder is usable. Anything that didn't gets the hammer again.
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southern-ct-4
- Posts: 645
- Joined: May 7th, 2018, 3:31 pm
- Location: Southern CT (6b)
- Grass Type: PR/FF/KBG
- Lawn Size: 10000-20000
- Level: Some Experience
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by southern-ct-4 » June 4th, 2022, 8:22 pm
Great, thank you again!
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andy10917
- Posts: 29739
- Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
- Location: NY (Lower Hudson Valley)
- Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
- Lawn Size: 1 acre-2 acre
- Level: Advanced
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by andy10917 » June 4th, 2022, 9:49 pm
Anything that returns to powder is usable. Anything that didn't gets the hammer again.
Morph, you gave him Rule #1 and Rule #2, but skipped Rule #3.
Rule #3: "If multiple hammer hits fail, "GET A BIGGER HAMMER".
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bpgreen
- Posts: 3871
- Joined: January 3rd, 2009, 2:28 am
- Location: Utah (Wasatch Front)
- Grass Type: Western, Streambank, Crested wheatgrass in front (with blue grama added in the heckstrips), sheep fescue in back; strawberry clovetr in both
- Lawn Size: 3000-5000
- Level: Experienced
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by bpgreen » June 5th, 2022, 12:11 am
andy10917 wrote: ↑June 4th, 2022, 9:49 pm
Anything that returns to powder is usable. Anything that didn't gets the hammer again.
Morph, you gave him Rule #1 and Rule #2, but skipped Rule #3.
Rule #3: "If multiple hammer hits fail, "GET A BIGGER HAMMER".
Or one of those blenders ths guys use on the "will it blend?" YouTube channel.
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MorpheusPA
- Posts: 18131
- Joined: March 5th, 2009, 7:32 pm
- Location: Zone 6 (Eastern PA)
- Grass Type: Elite KBG
- Lawn Size: 10000-20000
- Level: Advanced
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by MorpheusPA » June 5th, 2022, 1:59 pm
Hammer. Blender. Power press. Bigger power press. Whatever it takes to get it to return to powder state is absolutely fine!
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southern-ct-4
- Posts: 645
- Joined: May 7th, 2018, 3:31 pm
- Location: Southern CT (6b)
- Grass Type: PR/FF/KBG
- Lawn Size: 10000-20000
- Level: Some Experience
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by southern-ct-4 » June 6th, 2022, 9:22 am
Understood, thanks again !
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bpgreen
- Posts: 3871
- Joined: January 3rd, 2009, 2:28 am
- Location: Utah (Wasatch Front)
- Grass Type: Western, Streambank, Crested wheatgrass in front (with blue grama added in the heckstrips), sheep fescue in back; strawberry clovetr in both
- Lawn Size: 3000-5000
- Level: Experienced
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by bpgreen » June 7th, 2022, 12:35 am
MorpheusPA wrote: ↑June 5th, 2022, 1:59 pm
Hammer. Blender. Power press. Bigger power press. Whatever it takes to get it to return to powder state is absolutely fine!
Whatever it takes.
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MorpheusPA
- Posts: 18131
- Joined: March 5th, 2009, 7:32 pm
- Location: Zone 6 (Eastern PA)
- Grass Type: Elite KBG
- Lawn Size: 10000-20000
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by MorpheusPA » June 7th, 2022, 12:25 pm
That was going through my head when I wrote that. Even 222 would be acceptable.
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