Post
by MorpheusPA » March 9th, 2024, 9:45 pm
We really only read Logan Labs soil tests (the reason is that we can't familiarize ourselves with every soil tests' accuracy, which is generally not that great, measurements, and range of recommendations terribly easily). But I don't mind taking a very general stab at it, with the realization that I'm giving this a very, very general read only, won't make most recommendations based on this test, and I'm going to only use it as the most general of guides.
Centipede is one of the most forgiving grasses, and is easily outcompeted in decent soil by practically any plant, so you actually want what the rest of us would call depleted, poor soils that would destroy our grasses.
You're pretty much there. Potassium is almost adequate, if a bit low, while magnesium is low and calcium is off the charts low. Most minor elements ride where they should be (which is fine), while boron is high enough to be a slight problem for more-sensitive plants (centipede is not one of them). Optimal pH for centipede is actually 5.5 to 6.0; you're a bit low, but not so severely out of range that it's a major issue.
Honestly, don't do much of anything. If you did lime, it should be a slowly available dolomite and not much of it, enough to kick the pH 0.3-0.4 points at maximum. Assuming a sandy soil, about 10 pounds per thousand square feet and see where you are next year. Tops. And I wouldn't bother.
The slightly-less optional recommendation would be 3 pounds of potassium sulfate per thousand square feet, once this year. Centipede does like adequate potassium.
Other than that, feed as per centipede's normal schedule; once in May, once early summer, and once late summer. You could also use 20-0-20 fertilizer (or any fertilizer with a large first and third number and a zero or extremely low number in the second place) instead of the potassium sulfate to raise potassium a little.
