HoosierLawnGnome fall 2016 renovation - the spring after

[Abyss]

Haven't been able to keep up with you on here like I would like, darn kids keep getting in the way. It's looking good, and it'll definitely get there.

Keep Calm and Renovate On

Just remind yourself, it's a 2 year process (I'm even finding that out with sod)

[Jackpine]

Yeah it was a turn on a slight incline. Ugh.

Hey some pics. It's "ok" - not great, some areas are good. It looks pockmarked because I don't have 100% coverage. I think most areas will close in. Color is GREAT.

HLG

That looks fantastic. Long battle but you won it!

congrats
Tom

[HoosierLawnGnome]

Thanks but it looks much better in the pic than it is in areas. Straight down you see all the bare patches.

Lots of activity this week. I applied 3/4 lb per K urea yesterday and watered it in. Spot sprayed weeds with speed zone a few days ago.

4 in soil temperatures have been 65 or more at times for 4 days so I went ahead and put out Heritage to try and prevent summer patch. The ground was a little dry and cracked, plus, it is going to rain a lot the next several days so I didn't want to miss. I sprayed 4 oz of generic Heritage (Azoxy WDG) with a gallon of BLSC after running each zone for five minutes. Running the zones for 15 minutes each now to get it soaked in. No wind, late evening app on wet gradd I feel like it won't dry out before they all run and wash it in. I hit the problem areas heavily. I elected not to core aerate to try and target the fairy ring. I can't see it.

[HoosierLawnGnome]

Photo update from last night.

I spread 90 lbs of milorganite, heavily in the seedling areas. It's filled in a good bit since dropping the urea - it is amazing!

Still mowing @ 2 inches every 5-6 days. I see lots of dicots out there, but few mature weeds. I also need to treat yellow nutsedge and two areas of poa annua.

[HoosierLawnGnome]

[ligrass]

Coming along nicely HLG. This looks like your best reno yet.

[nclawnguy]

Looks good HLG! Your lawn will continue to fill in. Color looks great. I miss my kbg, not sure I will be doing kbg at new house.

[HoosierLawnGnome]

Thanks all. Things are filling in. I'm keeping up with light fertilization.

I was reading an interesting article in sports turf magazine today about PGRs. Basically the article talked in part of using the rebound affect if needed. The rebound affect for instance can help you recover from damage. Makes sense. Just never thought about using it to my advantage. I could stop applying so it rebounds and fills in more if needed. Interesting to think about.

Anyways picked up a 50 lb bag of ferrous sulfate today from Wanamaker Feed n Seed which is a few miles away for a great price. Applied 14 oz Podium, 7 oz Proxy, FAS, and 2/3 pint 24D to the established turf areas.

[Green]

Thanks all. Things are filling in. I'm keeping up with light fertilization.

I was reading an interesting article in sports turf magazine today about PGRs. Basically the article talked in part of using the rebound affect if needed. The rebound affect for instance can help you recover from damage. Makes sense. Just never thought about using it to my advantage. I could stop applying so it rebounds and fills in more if needed. Interesting to think about.

Anyways picked up a 50 lb bag of ferrous sulfate today from Wanamaker Feed n Seed which is a few miles away for a great price. Applied 14 oz Podium, 7 oz Proxy, FAS, and 2/3 pint 24D to the established turf areas.

So, the rebound isn't just about vertical growth?

[Pete1313]

Looking nice HLG!

I was reading an interesting article in sports turf magazine today about PGRs. Basically the article talked in part of using the rebound affect if needed. The rebound affect for instance can help you recover from damage.

Received the April issue a few days ago and glanced thru it. Looks like a good read. If you remember I sand topdressed/leveled a few years ago. Timed the rebound right when I did it so it could grow thru it better. I think it worked well and recovered faster. Especially since I over did it a bit on the sand.

Applied 14 oz Podium, 7 oz Proxy, FAS, and 2/3 pint 24D to the established turf areas.

What 24D product did you mix in? Was it a full rate?
Curious on the results. I'm planning on trying a 3-way in with Primo on my next spray.

[ericgautier]

My idol! Definitely look good. Can't wait for mine to be fully awake.

[HoosierLawnGnome]

Looking nice HLG!

I was reading an interesting article in sports turf magazine today about PGRs. Basically the article talked in part of using the rebound affect if needed. The rebound affect for instance can help you recover from damage.

Received the April issue a few days ago and glanced thru it. Looks like a good read. If you remember I sand topdressed/leveled a few years ago. Timed the rebound right when I did it so it could grow thru it better. I think it worked well and recovered faster. Especially since I over did it a bit on the sand.

Applied 14 oz Podium, 7 oz Proxy, FAS, and 2/3 pint 24D to the established turf areas.

What 24D product did you mix in? Was it a full rate?
Curious on the results. I'm planning on trying a 3-way in with Primo on my next spray.

Yeah, check out the "Why you should consider PGRs article - good read!

-----

OK - my results - not good - see the slightly browned bands? That's where I pulled my sprayer and the overlap was insufficient.



Basically, what I did was apply 2/3 pint of 24D Amine (pic below) with a low rate of FAS (probably 1-2oz / K rate) with 14 oz of Podium (Proxy) and 7 oz Proxy in two batches of 30 gallons each, two different directions minimum. I did NOT wash it off the next morning. The next day it was mid 70s, followed by a day of mid 80s. On the 80 degree day, I could see slightly brown bands where I pulled the sprayer. It hadn't been deeply watered in 4-5 days at the time of application. The damage is easier to see where there was a higher application rate.



Was it the combination of items?
Was it slight drought stress exacerbating it?
Was it the 24D too heavy in places?
Was it temps too high for FAS on the foliage?

Any and all are suspicious.

The only thing I did differently this time was add the 24D. I did test out the mix beforehand - no issues in the tank. But, obviously this combination of factors was too much stress at once.

Last night I went out and put out 30 lbs of urea after I cut it against @ 2" to try and help it recover. We got a nice, natural rainfall last night with more in the forecast - so I expect it to recover pretty easily.

I've seen this look before - and I think it's the 24D of FAS on the foliage mostly, because I've seen some areas look a little browned after applying it before. I'm using less than the recommended rate of 24D on the bottle for ornamental turf grass , which recommends anywhere from 1 pint to 2 quarts. Each time I apply I keep putting out less.

It also really pointed out that my spraying patterns are uneven - the overlap isn't enough. There was a lot of drift too on that application - I had to stop several times to let the wind die down. I went out and bought some nozzles that should have a bigger droplet size to minimize drift. My spray pattern is 7' wide, but I need to treat it more like 5'.

Could I have washed it off the following morning and avoided damage? Maybe.

[Pete1313]

I appreciate your feedback. Sorry to hear about the results. When I searched for mixing herbicides with Primo maxx earlier this year I didn't find much useful information on it. The only info I could find was on the Australian label of Primo maxx, and it wasn't specifically for our types of grasses. From the label

Compatibility For Common Couch, Hybrid Couch and Kikuyu Turfgrasses only: PRIMO MAXX is compatible with some formulations of products containing the following chemicals: MCPA/Bromoxynil/Dicamba, Bromoxynil, MCPA ester/ Bromoxynil/Dicamba, MCPA ester/Bromoxynil, MCPP/2,4-D amine/Dicamba, 2,4-D amine or MCPP/ Dicamba. However, some transient discolouration of the treated turf may occur, after application of a tank mix. For the treatment of broadleaf weeds in turf with herbicides other than those indicated above, it is recommended to apply PRIMO MAXX and the broadleaf weed herbicides separately, allowing at least 10 days between an application of PRIMO MAXX and the broadleaf weed herbicides.

I think I might still try mixing a 3-way in next weekend with my next round. If I do, I will try without the FAS and see if the results are any different. I'm renovating this year, so let's play around a bit.

[HoosierLawnGnome]

Well, I'll be interested to know how your experiment turns out. Mine involved Primo + Proxy, so not quite a one to one comparison.

I'll probably stop the PGR for the spring and use the rebound to push out the brown blades more before summer arrives.

And, at this point - I really don't need to blanket spray any more post emergent herbicides - I have mostly clover and some chickweed out there to hit with 4-5 patches of yellow nutsedge, so a backpack full of Triclopyr will do much better anyways. The onion seems to be more supporessed now too.

We got 1.5" rain the last 8 hours - the soil is soaking it in and it's draining off pretty well. We are 2" shy of normal rainfall in April, so it's a welcome change and should help me recover from the damage. I think I already see a slight improvement.

[HoosierDaddy]

At 3"+ on the northeast side of Indy. Looking forward to the effects on the reno.

[HoosierLawnGnome]

The rain has done us well on the south side but we only got 1.5 in in my yard. Amazing hiw much differenece 10 miles makes! Things are less brown today. It's grown so much the last few days I could probably mow tomorrow.

I spent time taking rose cuttings today from the old rose varieties we got from grandma's estate to fill in the beds I built for my wife. All the David Austin roses I planted in my new bed from bare root have leafed out and a few are showing buds.

[g-man]

No flooding in the backyard? Thorpe Creek behind me is flooded and it keeps going up. There is another line of storms for tonight. South indiana had 8in of rain in the last 24hr.

[HoosierLawnGnome]

Oh its wet out there. Standing water where I have drainage issues. I did some work last season to improve drainage to the creek for one area that helps.

Grass looks like it's recovering already. I put down another 28 lbs of urea in the rain.

[andy10917]

No Poa-pulling in the rain today?

[HoosierLawnGnome]

No Poa-pulling in the rain today?

Not much. I pulled all but the two perimeter areas where it's the worst last wet period. (The lawn to the north has mostly poa at the edge and it blows into my yard, and it doesn't get cut until it's long gone to seed!)

Anyways - just two poa areas left to get, but they're the worst. You're right, it's much easier to pull in the rain!

I'm seeing baby clover. Need to spot treat.

Quackgrass is down 80% from earlier treatments, and the brown spots aren't too noticeable from the road and walkways. That's the upside to a larger yard - tiny brown spots aren't very visible at further distances.

I cut at 2" two days ago when I had time and made some muddy tracks, but that was the only opportunity I've had to cut since. I skipped mowing the areas with standing water of course.

A leveling / drainage project is going to be required to get the back yard to the next level and up to the consistency I desire in those spots. As it is the slight swail parallel to the creek means 1-2" of standing water when I get more than 1" of rain per day, which happens several times a year of course.