CVette's 2017 Front/Side Reno
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- Posts: 239
- Joined: August 19th, 2010, 9:16 am
- Location: Clifton Park - 20mi North of Albany, NY (Zone 5b)
- Grass Type: Bewitched Front, Bewitched-NuGlade-Bedazzled Back
- Lawn Size: 10000-20000
- Level: Experienced
CVette's 2017 Front/Side Reno
I'm finally tackling my front/side yard renovation this year. When I first joined this site I renovated my backyard in sections in 2010-12 using Bewitched/NuGlade/Bedazzled (40/30/30) to fight red thread. The side yard was renovated in 2014 with a little less Bedazzled in the mix.
Last year we were forced to take down a 60+ft Oak tree due to a 4' split down the trunk. The process of taking it down left large divots in the yard so I took the opportunity to renovate the area, about 5k sqft. The Silver Maple grew under the oak and you can see how lopsided it is. I'm told it is a weed tree and will even out eventually - we'll probably thin the heavy side in a few years. In May we planted the Red Sunset Maple next to it.
Most of the renovation is a Bewitched monostand with a 50/50 Bewitched/Nuglade to transition to the existing side yard KBG. Here's the area on 8/9, seed went down 8/14 through 8/16.
Last year we were forced to take down a 60+ft Oak tree due to a 4' split down the trunk. The process of taking it down left large divots in the yard so I took the opportunity to renovate the area, about 5k sqft. The Silver Maple grew under the oak and you can see how lopsided it is. I'm told it is a weed tree and will even out eventually - we'll probably thin the heavy side in a few years. In May we planted the Red Sunset Maple next to it.
Most of the renovation is a Bewitched monostand with a 50/50 Bewitched/Nuglade to transition to the existing side yard KBG. Here's the area on 8/9, seed went down 8/14 through 8/16.
- andy10917
- Posts: 29739
- Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
- Location: NY (Lower Hudson Valley)
- Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
- Lawn Size: 1 acre-2 acre
- Level: Advanced
Re: CVette's 2017 Front/Side Reno
You may be quite surprised at how fast the Maple fills in - I've had it happen. SIlver Maples aren't "weed trees", but they do have a habit of losing limbs from winter ice and high winds if not pruned every now and then.
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- Posts: 239
- Joined: August 19th, 2010, 9:16 am
- Location: Clifton Park - 20mi North of Albany, NY (Zone 5b)
- Grass Type: Bewitched Front, Bewitched-NuGlade-Bedazzled Back
- Lawn Size: 10000-20000
- Level: Experienced
Re: CVette's 2017 Front/Side Reno
Here's the reno today (day 17-19):
Two quick questions:
- When it is OK to walk on to fertilize? ~3-4 weeks or maybe 2-3" tall?
- I have some weeds near the street. I read it's too early for tenacity (ok at week 5-6?). Can I use a weed-b-gon type product now or is it still too soon?
Thanks Andy. The gentleman who took the Oak referred to it as a weed tree because of how fast it grows. I like the tree, it's just a little misshapen at the moment
Two quick questions:
- When it is OK to walk on to fertilize? ~3-4 weeks or maybe 2-3" tall?
- I have some weeds near the street. I read it's too early for tenacity (ok at week 5-6?). Can I use a weed-b-gon type product now or is it still too soon?
Thanks Andy. The gentleman who took the Oak referred to it as a weed tree because of how fast it grows. I like the tree, it's just a little misshapen at the moment
- andy10917
- Posts: 29739
- Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
- Location: NY (Lower Hudson Valley)
- Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
- Lawn Size: 1 acre-2 acre
- Level: Advanced
Re: CVette's 2017 Front/Side Reno
It will go through Sprout and Pout - it will germinate and grow for a few days, and then appear to stall. Wait for growth to resume before fertilizing. Don't be one of the dunces that come up with 500 explanations as to why you can violate the S&P rule -- it's because dunces lack patience. The incidence of disease or wilting/shock is much higher if you fertilizer too soon.When it is OK to walk on to fertilize? ~3-4 weeks or maybe 2-3" tall?
Tenacity is best at 30 days after emergence, but if weeds are REALLY rampant, it's better to apply at 30 days after seed-down than to lose all the grass you seeded. You will lose a little if it's applied too early, and growth will be very slow while the grass is white.I have some weeds near the street. I read it's too early for tenacity (ok at week 5-6?). Can I use a weed-b-gon type product now or is it still too soon?
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- Posts: 239
- Joined: August 19th, 2010, 9:16 am
- Location: Clifton Park - 20mi North of Albany, NY (Zone 5b)
- Grass Type: Bewitched Front, Bewitched-NuGlade-Bedazzled Back
- Lawn Size: 10000-20000
- Level: Experienced
Re: CVette's 2017 Front/Side Reno
I've had a busy six weeks and have been neglecting my reno - I feel like a bad parent.
After mowing yesterday and clearing some leaf cover, I found that most of the grass is yellowing and I have spots that appear wilted and whitish gray. I re-read Paul's 2016 Bewitched reno and noted that he was applying 0.5lb N/1000 each week. I don't know where my head was but I haven't been feeding my reno that much. Could the yellowing and spots be from lacking of fast N or too much P from starter fertilizer?
8/15 - seed down plus bag rate Scott's starter fert (24-25-4)
~9/16 - bag rate Milorganite and Scott's starter
9/30 - bag rate Milorganite
Wide view of new lawn compared to greener 2014 reno in top right:
Close up of new/older lawn:
Whitish spots:
Should I hit it with N today? I've never begun a reno this early so usually I fertilize twice and it's winter already.
After mowing yesterday and clearing some leaf cover, I found that most of the grass is yellowing and I have spots that appear wilted and whitish gray. I re-read Paul's 2016 Bewitched reno and noted that he was applying 0.5lb N/1000 each week. I don't know where my head was but I haven't been feeding my reno that much. Could the yellowing and spots be from lacking of fast N or too much P from starter fertilizer?
8/15 - seed down plus bag rate Scott's starter fert (24-25-4)
~9/16 - bag rate Milorganite and Scott's starter
9/30 - bag rate Milorganite
Wide view of new lawn compared to greener 2014 reno in top right:
Close up of new/older lawn:
Whitish spots:
Should I hit it with N today? I've never begun a reno this early so usually I fertilize twice and it's winter already.
- andy10917
- Posts: 29739
- Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
- Location: NY (Lower Hudson Valley)
- Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
- Lawn Size: 1 acre-2 acre
- Level: Advanced
Re: CVette's 2017 Front/Side Reno
you need to know what the average first frost date is in your area - there is a link to the calculator in the Fall Nitrogen Regimens link first page or two. The period for regular small (0.5 lbs) urea apps ends when you hit that date. After that, only the final "winterizer" app goes down.
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- Posts: 239
- Joined: August 19th, 2010, 9:16 am
- Location: Clifton Park - 20mi North of Albany, NY (Zone 5b)
- Grass Type: Bewitched Front, Bewitched-NuGlade-Bedazzled Back
- Lawn Size: 10000-20000
- Level: Experienced
Re: CVette's 2017 Front/Side Reno
OK, thanks Andy. It sounds like the yellowing and whitish spots aren't of great concern at this point? I'm in the pause phase so I guess I'll avoid fertilizing and only apply my last winterizer when growth stops.
- andy10917
- Posts: 29739
- Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
- Location: NY (Lower Hudson Valley)
- Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
- Lawn Size: 1 acre-2 acre
- Level: Advanced
Re: CVette's 2017 Front/Side Reno
I've become lousy at fungus identification since I switched to the Proactive Biofungicide Regimen eight years ago - I haven't had a fungus since. So, I leave fungal ID's to others.
With the yellowing, I don't have a better answer than Nitrogen, and I don't know the frost dates for your area. Post it and let's talk...
With the yellowing, I don't have a better answer than Nitrogen, and I don't know the frost dates for your area. Post it and let's talk...
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- Posts: 239
- Joined: August 19th, 2010, 9:16 am
- Location: Clifton Park - 20mi North of Albany, NY (Zone 5b)
- Grass Type: Bewitched Front, Bewitched-NuGlade-Bedazzled Back
- Lawn Size: 10000-20000
- Level: Experienced
Re: CVette's 2017 Front/Side Reno
12065 Clifton Park
Each winter, on average, your risk of frost is from September 28 through May 8.
Almost certainly, however, you will receive frost from October 10 through April 27.
The yellowing doesn't appear to affect the vigor and growth of the grass so I don't want to provide Nitrogen if it isn't the best time unless it will help the grass survive the fungus. I'm fine leaving the fungus alone, I have some spots I need to re-seed in the spring anyway.
Each winter, on average, your risk of frost is from September 28 through May 8.
Almost certainly, however, you will receive frost from October 10 through April 27.
The yellowing doesn't appear to affect the vigor and growth of the grass so I don't want to provide Nitrogen if it isn't the best time unless it will help the grass survive the fungus. I'm fine leaving the fungus alone, I have some spots I need to re-seed in the spring anyway.
- HoosierLawnGnome
- Posts: 9591
- Joined: May 22nd, 2013, 5:59 pm
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- Level: Advanced
Re: CVette's 2017 Front/Side Reno
Could be just from being covered by leaves for a while if it's been let go. Could be lack of N, it is late now.
You could spray FAS if it's just a color thing.
You could spray FAS if it's just a color thing.
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