GardenPants 2018 partial reno buffalograss

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gardenpants
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Re: GardenPants 2018 partial reno buffalograss

Post by gardenpants » August 19th, 2018, 7:20 pm

------------------------------------------------------------------
......................Two Week Update......................
------------------------------------------------------------------
Photos 8/19/2018
The buffalograss+blue grama half:

[img]https://s15.postimg.cc/xacyra6w7/IMG_0643.jpg[/img]

And including the buffalograss only half:

[img]https://s15.postimg.cc/9w4zfeu4n/IMG_0647.jpg[/img]

=======================================================================================

Yesterday morning I applied ammonium sulfate at 1 lb N / 1000 ft2 and watered it in. Temps reached 104*F, followed by a storm starting around 6pm. It rained until a little after midnight, dropping 0.4" of rain.

I applied N fertilizer because of this study: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/view ... nomyfacpub
It showed that nitrogen applied every two weeks after seeding helped with establishment of buffalograss.

This week, I've seen maybe a dozen bermuda shoots pop up. I've been digging them out, usually finding a small mass of stolons hidden underground. I've made a "patch mix" of buffalograss and blue grama seeds mixed in potting soil for repairing these spots after I've dug out the bermuda.

bpgreen
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Re: GardenPants 2018 partial reno buffalograss

Post by bpgreen » August 19th, 2018, 9:05 pm

I really like blue grama. It's a better fit for me than buffalo grass because it doesn't need it to be quite as hot, but it really tolerates the heat (and lack of water) in the summer.

Blue grama is mostly a bunch grass. It will tiller and spread slowly. Buffalo grass spreads via stolons, so it may end up dominating. Blue grama will spread a little more if it's mowed, but if you don't mind a slightly uneven lawn that is a little tall, you don't really need to mow a buffalo/blue grama lawn.

Once it's established, you don't really need to fertilize at all, and I probably wouldn't add more than 1/2 to 1 lb of N per 1000 sq ft per year (1 lb only if split into two applications).

gardenpants
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Re: GardenPants 2018 partial reno buffalograss

Post by gardenpants » August 19th, 2018, 10:54 pm

I'm growing "Blonde Ambition" blue grama as an ornamental, along with native flowers, in my curb strip, and I really like how it both looks and feels to the touch. It's what convinced me to include a little blue grama in my lawn mix. Now, with how well it's growing in my lawn, I continue to feel impressed.

My prediction is that buffalo will end up dominating in the center of the lawn, and the perimeter, along the sidewalk, which has reflected heat, will see blue grama dominating, since blue grama is more drought tolerant. This would work well for me, since because blue grama doesn't have runners, I wouldn't have edge. : )

The general consensus from the state extension services (Colorado, Kansas, Missouri, Nebraska, Texas) is 1 - 2 lbs of N per 1000 sq ft per year, split into two applications. The Texas extension service even recommends forgoing any fertilizer if bermudagrass encroachment is a problem. However, this research says that buffalograss quality declined over two years at a less than 2lb N per 1000 ft2 rate. http://gsrpdf.lib.msu.edu/ticpdf.py?fil ... 020712.pdf

It will probably need watering. I had to water my buffalograss twice this summer, because it was starting to going dormant. (I mean, yeah, it's better than watering twice a week, but I was promised no watering AT ALL! ^_^)

At some point, I do want to leave my buffalograss unmown. I have it that way in parts of my backyard, and it's the best looking buffalograss I have. However, I haven't decided at what level I'm going to maintain my buffalograss NEXT YEAR.

It's the bermuda grass. As I've documented, it's already rearing it's ugly head. And keeping the buffalo unmown, with no fertilizer only slows it down, it doesn't keep it out. This is personal experience, from my backyard. What keeping the buffalograss unmown does is that the buffalograss flops over and lays on top of the ground so that the bermuda runners, instead of growing on the ground (no sun), grow over the top of the buffalograss leaves. This does two things. First, it makes the runners easy to see. Second, since the bermudagrass runners don't "tack" to the ground, it limits the bermudagrass spread. I've been digging the bermudagrass out, but it keeps growing back in the same spots. (But slower each time!)

This is my dilemma: Next year, I'm thinking on hitting the buffalograss with Tenacity to mark the bermuda, then spot treating with fluazifop+triclopyr or glyphosate.

If I go the herbicide route, will I need to mow as a normal lawn to remove the herbicide injury, and then apply a higher N rate to help the buffalo recover? And if I do a higher N, will that encourage further bermudagrass encroachment? (Seeds everywhere, neighbors have bermudagrass.)

If I leave it a low fertilization rate, and the spots remain mostly bare (spread is very slow with no fertilizer), I'm inviting weed infestation in those bare spots. What's the answer? Spot fertilization around the bare spots? Hand dig only for removal? Pretend the bermudagrass isn't there? I guess I'll have to wait until next year to find out!

gardenpants
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Re: GardenPants 2018 partial reno buffalograss

Post by gardenpants » August 22nd, 2018, 9:58 pm

My blue grama is 5" tall in places! It looks like it'll survive after, all. I'll be giving it a haircut this weekend.

bpgreen
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Re: GardenPants 2018 partial reno buffalograss

Post by bpgreen » August 23rd, 2018, 8:36 pm

Thanks for the information on fertilizing buffalo grass. I guess I've been going on what I remember from earlier reading and what I read all had lower N recommendations.

I thought it was interesting that the author of the PDF calls buffalo grass the only turf grass species native to North America. I've got either 4 or 5 (depending on whether thick spike and streambank wheatgrass are considered separate species; there's some debate) other native grasses growing in may lawn (streambank wheatgrass, thick spike wheatgrass, blue grama, sheep fescue, western wheatgrass).

Is the 5" tall blue grama regular blades or seed stalks? I don't know if mine ever gets that tall other than the seed stalks. Since my other grasses don't really grow when the blue grama thrives, I let the seed stalks go in the hops that I'll get some seeds to get mature enough that they may sprout.


gardenpants
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Re: GardenPants 2018 partial reno buffalograss

Post by gardenpants » August 23rd, 2018, 8:41 pm

Here is a photo showing the growth from Sunday until today (Thursday).

gardenpants
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Re: GardenPants 2018 partial reno buffalograss

Post by gardenpants » August 23rd, 2018, 8:55 pm

[img]https://s15.postimg.cc/7wjde0dkn/rsz_2_wk_and_25_wk.jpg[/img]



Height of blue grama today. It seems it liked the nitrogen!

[img]https://s15.postimg.cc/t66zozbwn/IMG_0652.jpg[/img]

gardenpants
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Re: GardenPants 2018 partial reno buffalograss

Post by gardenpants » August 23rd, 2018, 9:13 pm

bpgreen, I think the 2+ lbs nitrogen recommendation is to help with the density. Buffalograss is notorious for being on the sparse side under normal mowing heights. Unfertilized, it only really looks thick if you leave it unmowed and let it flop over.

Right now, the blades of my newly seeded blue grama are 6" high. I won't have time until the weekend to cut it, so I'll end up doing "cut only 1/3 of height at a time" with multiple passes over several days to get it down to 3".

In my ornamental beds, my blue grama is 2 ft tall with the seed heads. (They've gone into their fall flowering and look amazing right now, btw. I'll try to share a pic tomorrow.)

And yes, I, too, think that they do need to do more research into U.S. native turf grasses! I guess by "turf grass" they mean stuff that's used for golf courses.

bpgreen
Posts: 3871
Joined: January 3rd, 2009, 2:28 am
Location: Utah (Wasatch Front)
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Lawn Size: 3000-5000
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Re: GardenPants 2018 partial reno buffalograss

Post by bpgreen » August 23rd, 2018, 9:36 pm

I'll have to measure how tall my blue grama is (regular blades and seed heads) this weekend. I'd be surprised if the seed heads are much over 6 inches tall, much less the regular blades. 2 ft seems really tall to me.

I think they're probably close to correct in saying that buffalo grass is the only turf grass that's native to NA. There are some people who use blue grama (usually in conjunction with buffalo grass), but I think I'm pretty much an outlier using cool season natives. Crested wheatgrass is gaining some traction, but it's naturalized (meaning it is well adapted to conditions, but was introduced from someplace else). Many of the improvements to crested wheatgrass were done through selective breeding in the US, but it's originally from Siberia, so it's technically not a native.

gardenpants
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Re: GardenPants 2018 partial reno buffalograss

Post by gardenpants » August 24th, 2018, 2:34 pm

Here is a pair of ornamental "Blonde Ambition" blue grama:
-----[img]https://s15.postimg.cc/b3jxl4eqf/IMG_0655.jpg[/img]

And the red arrow on the yardstick is the 2 ft mark:
-----[img]https://s15.postimg.cc/as2h89b47/IMG_0657_2.jpg[/img]

gardenpants
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Re: GardenPants 2018 partial reno buffalograss

Post by gardenpants » August 26th, 2018, 11:55 pm

----------------------------------------------------------------
...................Three Week Update.....................
----------------------------------------------------------------
Photos 8/26/2018

The buffalograss+blue grama half, before trimming (8/25/2018):
[img]https://s15.postimg.cc/xgpdj5307/IMG_0658.jpg[/img]

and after trimming with hand shears:
[img]https://s15.postimg.cc/8aofcdelj/IMG_0669.jpg[/img]

The junction between the mix and buffalograss only halves:
[img]https://s15.postimg.cc/kcjt6nt0n/IMG_0670.jpg[/img]

gardenpants
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Re: GardenPants 2018 partial reno buffalograss

Post by gardenpants » August 27th, 2018, 1:01 am

------------------------------------------------------------------
.............Three Week Update, continued...............
------------------------------------------------------------------
Photos 8/26/2018

Here's the buffalograss half of my reno, from standing height:
[img]https://s15.postimg.cc/5hv7sclyv/IMG_0671.jpg[/img]

and here it is from a low angle, which better shows all the growth that has happened in three weeks:
[img]https://s15.postimg.cc/z9sa7m13b/IMG_0673.jpg[/img]

In my experience, this is an excellent stand at 3 weeks. Buffalograss establishment from seed is supposed to be slower than that of KBG. Looking at some of the reno threads here, I'd say my progress is comparable to KBG.

Temperatures this week have been in the high 90's everyday, one day at 100F, and sunny. I've been watering three, 13 minute cycles daily (5am, 2pm, 7pm).

The blue grama really responded to the nitrogen I applied last week, leading to the first cutting. The buffalograss didn't react as dramatically, besides becoming greener.

============================================================================================
This week, I'll be cutting back to two, 13 min waterings a day (5 am and 7pm). They say the germination time for buffalograss is 7-28 days. However, with how good the grass looks now at 21 days, I'm willing to bet that I won't be seeing that much more germination even if I continue watering at the germination rate of 3X daily until day 28.
I'm also eager to save $$$ by not watering as much!

Tomorrow I also plan on using my Scott's reel mower to cut the blue grama to 3".

gardenpants
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Re: GardenPants 2018 partial reno buffalograss

Post by gardenpants » August 27th, 2018, 2:01 am

This is a photo of buffalograss seeds (Buchloe dactyloides) vs the much smaller blue grama seeds (Bouteloua gracilis).
[img]https://s15.postimg.cc/ub9d6j4l3/IMG_0665.jpg[/img]

In the photo, the buffalograss seed is tinted green to show that it has been pre-treated ('primed') with potassium nitrate (KNO3) to increase germination. Untreated buffalograss seed has a very low germination rate. Most named varieties of buffalograss is sold primed. However, one should always check before buying.

gardenpants
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Re: GardenPants 2018 partial reno buffalograss

Post by gardenpants » August 27th, 2018, 11:35 am

I want to retract my earlier statement that "the buffalograss didn't react as dramatically" to nitrogen as blue grama.

I was hand weeding today, and noticed that many of the buffalograss seedlings had formed relatively large clumps, larger than I would normally expect at this stage.

Here is a photo showing the difference:
[img]https://s15.postimg.cc/uzwge1lt3/With_N.jpg[/img]

So, yes, buffalograss seedlings DO react dramatically, not in height, but in width.

gardenpants
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Re: GardenPants 2018 partial reno buffalograss

Post by gardenpants » August 27th, 2018, 11:46 am

Before and after first mowing, at 3":

[img]https://s15.postimg.cc/4u57bisif/First_mow.jpg[/img]

gardenpants
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Re: GardenPants 2018 partial reno buffalograss

Post by gardenpants » September 3rd, 2018, 6:26 pm

-------------------------------------------------------------------
.......................Four Week Update.....................
-------------------------------------------------------------------
Photos 9/2/2018

The blue grama is growing like crazy. Photo taken before it's second mowing. I'm actually thinking it might need to be mowed twice a week. I was having trouble cutting it with my push reel mower--some of the leaf blades were too long and were just being pushed down rather than being cut.
[img]https://s15.postimg.cc/p5tjs0mbr/IMG_0686.jpg[/img]

The buffalograss is slowly but steadily filling in:
[img]https://s15.postimg.cc/5nywc5pev/IMG_0689.jpg[/img]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
At the start of this past week (last Sunday), I put my sprinkler on a 2X a day schedule (reducing from 3X a day germination watering), watering 15 min at 5am and 7pm. Then on Thursday night, I hear the news that one of the water mains serving my part of the city broke, and that the city is asking people to use water only for essentials and to stop outdoor watering until the main can be repaired. The city expects it to be repaired on Tuesday. I panicked a little, since 2X a day watering is the definition of short shallow watering, and my grass was barely three weeks old--not enough time for deep root growth. Would it survive 4 days of 95+ degree weather?

I was reassured by forum members (thanks dchall, bpgreen!) that these grasses could take the heat, even at a young age. Happy to say that the grass did take it all in stride, as can be seen from the photos. (Taken after 3 days of no water.)

It's raining today (Monday), and right now, there is rain forecasted for most of the upcoming week. I might not need to irrigate this week at all.

This week, I'll be doing my final fall fertilization. I'll be including the reno area in the fertilizer pass, mostly so I can give it a little potassium before the weather starts cooling.

gardenpants
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Re: GardenPants 2018 partial reno buffalograss

Post by gardenpants » September 5th, 2018, 3:35 pm

I mowed the blue grama on Monday and again today (Wednesday). The grass is growing about an inch a day! No joke, the clippings were 2" long. I carried a pair of shears in my back pocket to trim the grass the reel mower was missing.

It rained 0.75" on Monday, and 0.55" on Tuesday.

It's so funny reading the cool season reno threads and people are so excited when it DOESN'T rain. For me, this is my best performing reno out of the three I've done so far, and I attribute the success to all the rain.

The other thing I've noticed about the cool season folks is how densely their seedlings come up. Buffalograss has such a low germination rate that it's considered a successful seeding if you get one sprout per square foot.

I'm also thinking of planting a different drought-tolerant grass under the crepe myrtle tree. The blue grama/buffalo just isn't taking because of the shade. I'm thinking about sheep fescue--the most heat tolerant of the fescues--but I'm still a bit farther south than it's normal range. I can always do a zoysia, but I'm hoping for something that would blend in more with the buffalo/blue grama.

bpgreen
Posts: 3871
Joined: January 3rd, 2009, 2:28 am
Location: Utah (Wasatch Front)
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Re: GardenPants 2018 partial reno buffalograss

Post by bpgreen » September 5th, 2018, 8:20 pm

Sheep fescue is really drought tolerant and it may be the most heat tolerant of fine fescues, but it's not very heat tolerant. Also, it's very different from grasses like buffalo grass and blue grama. Buffalo grass and blue grama have incredibly deep root systems and can draw water from deep beneath the surface. Sheep fescue has a lot of root mass, but it's all pretty close to the surface (just spread out all over the place). I think there are some other fescues that may be better choices for you. They're not used in lawns very often, but since you're using buffalo grass and blue grama, you've shown that's not a big concern.

I was going to go off and search and get back to you, but I forgot to hit submit.

Arizona fescue is the one I was thinking of, but it's also a cool season grass, so it may not do much better than sheep fescue. Southwest seed carries both of them. They also list them both as doing best in full sun. I'd give them a call. They know their stuff and are very helpful in trying to get the right grass seed for their customers (even customers who are buying small quantities).

gardenpants
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Re: GardenPants 2018 partial reno buffalograss

Post by gardenpants » September 5th, 2018, 10:10 pm

BPGreen, thanks so much for your insight.

I am technically in the transition zone, at the southernmost edge. Although I haven't seen one myself, I have heard of people growing TTTF in their lawns in this area. I figured I might be able to try a hard fescue.

That's interesting about the root structure of sheep fescue, and it might actually be an asset. I was reading an article in the NYT where they interviewed Thomas Rainer, an ecological landscape designer, and he talked about when designing sustainable plant combinations to think about plant roots, too. Just like how above ground, you want a mix of groundcover, mid-level, and taller plants, underground, you want a mix of shallow, mid-level, and deep tap roots.

I'll look into Arizona fescue.

My last choice is Texas bluegrass (Poa arachnifera), a cool season grass, native to Texas. (Fun fact: Kentucky bluegrass is not native to Kentucky! It's not even native to the US.) I have grown it successfully in shade, but once again, as an ornamental. It stayed green without irrigation, but basically stopped growing in summer. Unfortunately, it's only available as plugs, and my plugs have not spread at all. There are Texas/Kentucky crossbreeds I could seed, but I can't find much information about them, except that they're middle of the road in NTEP trials. All I know that with the TBG I have, the leaves are darker green, broader, and more upright than buffalo/blue grama. I don't think it would blend well.

bpgreen
Posts: 3871
Joined: January 3rd, 2009, 2:28 am
Location: Utah (Wasatch Front)
Grass Type: Western, Streambank, Crested wheatgrass in front (with blue grama added in the heckstrips), sheep fescue in back; strawberry clovetr in both
Lawn Size: 3000-5000
Level: Experienced

Re: GardenPants 2018 partial reno buffalograss

Post by bpgreen » September 6th, 2018, 10:10 pm

gardenpants wrote:
September 5th, 2018, 10:10 pm
BPGreen, thanks so much for your insight.

I am technically in the transition zone, at the southernmost edge. Although I haven't seen one myself, I have heard of people growing TTTF in their lawns in this area. I figured I might be able to try a hard fescue.

I'll look into Arizona fescue.
Call southwest seed. They'll steer you right. I meant to call them today and order some blue grama seed, but got busy (there may be cheaper sources, but they're good people).
My last choice is Texas bluegrass (Poa arachnifera), a cool season grass, native to Texas. (Fun fact: Kentucky bluegrass is not native to Kentucky! It's not even native to the US.) I have grown it successfully in shade, but once again, as an ornamental. It stayed green without irrigation, but basically stopped growing in summer. Unfortunately, it's only available as plugs, and my plugs have not spread at all. There are Texas/Kentucky crossbreeds I could seed, but I can't find much information about them, except that they're middle of the road in NTEP trials. All I know that with the TBG I have, the leaves are darker green, broader, and more upright than buffalo/blue grama. I don't think it would blend well.
I haven't read very good things about Texas Bluegrass or Texas Bluegrass x Kentucky Bluegrass hybrids, but the negatives may be from people who were hoping for something similar to a KBG lawn.

I just reread your comment. Fine fescues would be a better match for buffalo grass and blue grama in terms if blade size. Some fine fescues would be much darker green, at least when it's cooler.

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