Switch from Bermuda to Fescue - TN

Discuss how to and whether you should renovate your lawn
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TN_Bulldog
Posts: 1
Joined: August 20th, 2021, 9:31 am
Location: Nashville, TN
Grass Type: Tall Fescue
Lawn Size: Not Specified
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Switch from Bermuda to Fescue - TN

Post by TN_Bulldog » August 20th, 2021, 10:58 am

I'm looking for some advice, guidance, or even a little assurance that I am on the right track with what I'm doing. I moved into a house 2 years ago that had Bermuda grass. We have some taller trees in the front yard & lining the back property line in the back yard. With the amount of shade caused by those trees, I have some areas that the Bermuda doesn't grow. After trying different things to get the grass to grow, I finally decided to do a renovation and replace it with Bermuda.

To help get me started, I have been following the directions at the following link:
https://turf.arizona.edu/tips797.html

1. I started July 9th by scalping the yard & bagging the clippings. The next day, I sprayed glyphosate over the entire yard.
2. I watered normally for the following week.
3. On July 17th, I cut & bagged where there was still green. I then sprayed another round of glyphosate where there was green.
4. A week later, 99.9% of the grass was dead and I've just been spot spraying since.
5. On August 6th, I rented a verticutter and ran it a few directions over the yard at a depth of 1/4". I removed 7 bags of debris.
6. On August 17th, I grabbed the verticutter again and ran it through a few more directions at a depth of 3/4". I removed another 9 bags of debris. I made sure to leave some of the cut up clippings per the instructions at the link above.
7. This weekend, I plan on doing some leveling in a few areas.
8. Next week, August 27th, I have a Classen TS-20 self-propelled overseeder reserved. The plan is to seed, roll the yard, and add starter fertilizer.
9. I plan on watering per the instructions in the link above. I have an in-ground irrigation system.

I have a few questions for the group that I'd love to get some feedback on.
1. Is this the right way to go? Is there something I should do between now and next week to set myself up for better results?
2. I've seen a lot of information on adding peat moss or compost to the yard. I'm curious if I need to do this with the overseeder & some of the dead Bermuda acting as a mulch as the link above mentions? Or is that overkill?
3. I have 2 English bulldogs that go out back (they will not go to the bathroom on a leash). They each go to only 1 spot in the yard every time. Is there something I can do to help minimize the impact of them going outside to the bathroom? I'll note that if I lay straw on their spot, they'll move to wherever the straw ends (they are stubborn creatures).
4. Any other general words of wisdom to share to help me with this effort?

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Dchall_San_Antonio
Posts: 3339
Joined: December 17th, 2008, 1:53 am
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Grass Type: St Augustine
Lawn Size: 5000-10000
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Re: Switch from Bermuda to Fescue - TN

Post by Dchall_San_Antonio » December 11th, 2021, 2:18 pm

That is a great link you found.
1. Yes and no.
2. No and yes.
3. Fertilize with organic fertilizer to keep your soil microbes happy. It is the microbes processing the dog pee and poop that prevent yellowing. If you still see yellowing, then scatter a handful of table sugar on the yellow spot and give it a splash of water. The sugar helps the microbes to over populate and deal with the excess urine in the soil. Any organic fertilizer is fine. My personal fave organic fert is alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow) supplemented with ordinary corn meal. You can get both of those at your local feed store in 50 pound bags. Prices are a little higher this year. Normally alfalfa pellets are under $15 per bag and corn less than $10. The application rate is 15 to 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Check out the Organic Lawn Care forum for more info.
4. Other than the organic fertilizer as a general fertilizer, I can't think of anything. Rabbit chow does not attract wild rabbits or hares. Rabbit chow is for captive rabbits and hares who have a ready water supply. Wild rabbits and hares would much rather eat juicy plants from your garden. Similarly corn meal does not attract deer.

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