New Maple Balled and Burlapped Help1

[Atc4usmc]

Hello all,

I recently (last Friday) had a balled and burlapped Maple installed by a local nursery. The tree is about 3.5" in diameter and close to if not over 20' tall. The lead guy who installed has worked at the nursery for nearly 30 years and did everything I thought and have read to do when installing a tree except one thing. He left the burlap and metal cage around the tree ball when he installed it. He told me the burlap would degrade allowing the roots to grow through and into the ground. The cage wasn't that concerning to me as I don't see it preventing the tree from taking root.

The guy was adamant about using soil conditioner and mixing that with the soil that came from the hole, which he dig 1.5 times larger than the tree ball and back-filled with conditioned soil.

Question: should I dig down to the burlap and break it up before the tree has sat for too long, or will the burlap disintegrate and the tree root without issue?

Thanks in advanced for the help!

[Kmartel]

Cage and burlap need to be removed, also make sure flare is at proper height. Goggle tree transplanting standards to get proof for yourself, call nursery and make them do it right.


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[LoneRanger]

There are many opinions about burlap/basket b&b removal, based on current soil conditions, especially with large trees. A tree that large may take 10 years or more for the roots to catch up with the crown. Synthetic b&b are a totally different story.

[Atc4usmc]

THanks for the responses. I believe the burlap is actual burlap, not synthetic. I have read quite a few different opinions and honestly think I will have them come back and remove the burlap at least.

Thanks again!

[LoneRanger]

I'll say this. Trees will see little root growth in the first season, due to transplant shock. It is much more severe in large trees. My previous experience working for an independent landscaper years ago, we saw our fair share of root ball collapse on very large trees. This was caused by burlap/basket removal, followed by soil settling and excessive movement of the tree during the following seasons after planting. I personally would leave it as is. What size was the ball? It should have been ~4' in diameter and the hole should have been 8' or larger. On average, with a slow growing tree, a 1" caliper will healthier and the same size as a 3.5" caliper, in 10 years. Transplant shock is much less severe and for a shorter time, in small trees.

[Atc4usmc]

LoneRanger, thanks for the updated response. I have read more again tonight and honestly am glad to hear your take on this. The rootball was a good bit over 3 feet for sure and the hole he dug was a good 6-7 feet. I will go out an measure tomorrow when I get back home (out of town right now). The guy was very detailed and thorough in his planting and instructions for care for me to ensure the tree grows. I have decided I am going to stop researching this any longer and take your advice and leave it as is. Only time will tell and honestly it could live or die either way. Im just going to water it daily and do my best to take care of it to ensure survival.

[LoneRanger]

He sounds like an experienced landscaper. I would give him a call and politely ask him to educate you, as to why he planted this way. Either way, I think your last sentence says it all. However, you do need to ask him about the watering schedule. Extended excessive watering can remove the required airspace in the planting site and water-log the roots. It depends on your soil, evoporation, and root uptake. There is a balance of oxygen exchange required in the soil for healthy root establishment. Infrequent deep watering applies here. I'd recommend 2-5gal buckets every other day or so, for a tree this size. HD buckets with lids work well for this. Drill a 1/4" hole in the center, of the bottom. Displace any mulch and place them directly on soil, on opposite sides, close to the trunk. Fill and place the lids, but don't seat them. Check them after a hour. If they're not empty or near empty, increase the hole to 3/8". Remove the buckets and place the mulch. You should always check the soil moisture between waterings.

[dfw_pilot]

My Boy Scout cousin taught me to drill the small hole in the side of the bucket, about a half inch up the side, to prevent dirt and crud from clogging the hole. Dirt seems to always find its way in there.

Also, you probably have a warranty for at least a year; so do your best, and if it doesn't do well, call them out next year at this time and have them look at it. My experience with local nurseries is that the employees care about the well being of the tree probably more than you do! The LoneRanger (Hi Ho, Silver, away!!!!) has good advice about calling them and asking them to explain. I'm sure they'll be happy to. All the best and good luck,

dfw

[Atc4usmc]

LoneRanger - The guy told me to water it daily for the first few months, not crazy hour long watering but the main thing is to keep it wet. I have a gator bag that I use on it currently, I fill it up daily and let it run. I will likely change to every-other-day sometime next week. I do like the bucket idea, that seems like it would work well and honestly I thought of that before. I was vetoed by my commander in chief (WIFE) due to the looks of having a bucket in the front yard, thus the gator bag came in to play.

[Tony alony]

+1 Kmartel.
I think your arborist left the burlap because he has probably always done it that way.

Here is a link You may have found already: https://www.arborday.org/trees/planting ... lapped.cfm

Backstory-- I cut my hand on the metal basket when spreading mulch the year after the builder had the trees installed. They were removed and containerized trees were brought in. My arborist was out yesterday for the annual fertilization of the trees and commented how well they were doing
Fortunately, when the new trees were planted, they were done the right way for a containerized specimen. He showed me how much they had grown (12") since last year, by pointing out on one of the lower new branches,which still had the hardened off bud at the end of its growth from last year, when it first emerged from the trunk. He also mentioned that I, and one other neighbor had the healthiest trees on my street.
Good Luck going forward.

[OldGlory]

I have planted dozens and dozens of trees. I have always left the burlap and cage on. I do make sure that the twine and any burlap is not wound around the trunk and I do use cutters to cut back the top section of the metal cage.

[Tony alony]

Well, I dunno. I think the cage, as you put it, is for lifting purposes only. A side benefit is the avoidance of damage to the root ball during transit. With that being said, how did you lift the tree from the flatbed truck into the planting hole? Did you use an auger to dig the hole, or dig it by hand?

I have planted dozens and dozens of trees. I have always left the burlap and cage on. I do make sure that the twine and any burlap is not wound around the trunk and I do use cutters to cut back the top section of the metal cage.

[Kmartel]

It's not up for debate, cage and burlap need to be removed to ensure a long life. Also the grade must be so that the flare of the tree is above the existing soil grade. Leaving cage and burlap on tree won't be an issue for the first year, probably even after 5 years. The issues begin to appear in most cases in years 8-12. The cages cause girdling roots, they eventually strangle the trunk. With proper technique any tree can have 100% of cage removed and all the burlap except for the very bottom of the ball.

Also for ball size, should be 10-14" per caliper inch.


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[Tony alony]

Kmartel, Amen. I agree wholeheartedly. A transplanted tree needs to grow in its new place, just as it was before being transplanted. When you stop and think about it, doesn't that make sense?

[LoneRanger]

I have planted dozens and dozens of trees. I have always left the burlap and cage on. I do make sure that the twine and any burlap is not wound around the trunk and I do use cutters to cut back the top section of the metal cage.

When planting large b&b trees, exactly!

[Tony alony]

To anyone interested---Found this in my bookmarks. I knew I had seen it somewhere. Anyway, here's how a large tree farm ships their trees all over the U.S.

http://sptreefarm.com/buy-healthy-stron ... rsery.html
I studied this topic of baled and burlapped before I made my case to my home builder as I mentioned earlier.
I'll see if I can find more bookmarks on the subject.

Here's another one: http://www.mortonarb.org/trees-plants/t ... lant-trees
See tips on planting in this document.

[nclawnguy]

I have planted many burlapped trees over the years, I always remove it. I was taught this was the proper way over 20 years ago when I worked for a lansldscape co in CT. One issue is the soil is usually covering the root flare. Obviously it is easier to plant with the burlap and cage, but not the best way. When you remove the burlap, make sure you are near your planting hole, it can start to fall apart.

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[Tony alony]

Thanks, nclawnguy. Finally; someone who's opinion I can respect. I do have my biased opinions on many subjects that appear on the forums, but sometimes, I think I can be right on certain topics, especially when I have first hand knowledge. Glad to hear your perspective.

[Atc4usmc]

Well I never thought there would be so much discussion and differences on this issue. The cage around my root ball was very wide open (like other B&B trees I have sen during research), meaning it wasnt like the ball was wrapped in a chain link fence. I honestly dont feel the cage will cause the tree any issue, my biggest concern was the burlap left around the ball. Going to call the nursery tomorrow and see what they say.

[nclawnguy]

Thanks, nclawnguy. Finally; someone who's opinion I can respect. I do have my biased opinions on many subjects that appear on the forums, but sometimes, I think I can be right on certain topics, especially when I have first hand knowledge. Glad to hear your perspective.

I recently bought a japanese maple that was burlapped, I paid $340 for this tree. When I removed the burlap, there was soil covering 4 or 5" above root flare. You cannot tell me that this would not be an issue down the road. Most nurseries will say it is okay to leave on, and landscapers will say it is okay probably because it is easier for them.