Shelf/Lights for Seed Starting (+PICS)

[MorpheusPA]

Mom's been looking for a Christmas gift for me this year, and mentioned that a set of shelving, the shop lights, and assorted whatnots to complete it sounded like a good idea. That met with approval as it gets the mess out of my study and into the (heated) cellar. Mom's also looking for free heliotrope next year as those puppies are expensive.

I already have seed starters; the price was good at http://www.novoselenterprises.com/produ ... sekits.asp. I purchased 4 72 cell ones, plus 1 40 cell for the heliotrope (which will need a larger starting area).

JG, I know you have a setup, others may too. What did everybody use? My grand total requirement is about 700 annuals for the year, although I don't expect to be able to do that on a single shelf. This is more proof of concept; I can add more in future years.

[andy10917]

In September, myself and my wife stop in at almost every garden center we pass. Many of them don't have the space to keep this year's seed starting supplies and put up their Christmas trees, etc. So they practically give the stuff away.

I have an area of the basement (about 8' by 8') that I use, and tack up some 2" X 2" studs from the main floor joists. Some 6 mil poly and a warm air humidifier and I have a greenhouse. It's an UBU ("ugly but useful"). That way I don't need all the tops (which become a PITA anyway).

[MorpheusPA]

I lack floor joists, plus permission to convert that much basement. Both of us are aware that one will lead to two, two to four...it's like zombie reproduction...once bitten, it spirals out of control.

At least one of us has put down one well-shod foot and demanded that I don't exceed the 15 A service down there in fluorescent light requirements...

Figuring I can only get 1 72-cell greenhouse per shelf, use the five-shelf models (and use four of those), that's about 280 plants per stand. Four would be the absolute maximum I'd need for this property, and I could get away with three.

[MorpheusPA]

Research indicates that I'll need:

1) Shelves, plastic or metal (heavy plastic to avoid rust is better) with open-style shelves for air movement and to make hanging the lights easier.

2) Shop lights, 2 bulb preferable, on chains so I can move them up and down.

3) A power strip.

4) A heavy-duty light timer.

[MorpheusPA]

All bought!

I ended up with a 6-shelf set, five of which will be usable. The top can be used to store dirt and stuff. Shelf length is 48" so I can fit two starters on each for a total of 10.

I got 2 shop lights per shelf (2 bulbs each), but probably only need one. I'll return the rest if I don't need them. The length is a whisper shorter than the shelf, but longer than two seed starters put together.

I have 1 cool white and 1 warm white bulb for each shop light.

And 1 heavy-duty timer capable of dealing with a full 15 amps, which I don't need--six would be ample.

[248n8]

Will you have pictures of this setup when it's complete?

[andy10917]

Morph:

A suggestion...

I would add something that makes a difference - since the reflectors on the lights suck badly. I did it two years ago and it held in humidity and upped the available light a lot.

Check this out: Reflective Mylar 4' X 50'

[MorpheusPA]

What, there's something wrong with aluminum foil?

Good idea!

[andy10917]

I run into this company a lot when I'm doing aquarium lighting stuff. They are legit, but I suspect that a fair amount of their business is the "alternative agriculture" crowd. When you do larger-scale aquarium lighting, you are constantly bumping into that crowd.

[MorpheusPA]

Yeah, I figured. I got a lot of my better tips from the alternative ag crowd myself.

Hey, I just want to grow marigolds! On the other hand, you gotta figure they've got it down to a science.

Oh. I did end up with T12 fixtures and bulbs; not the most efficient, but what I could get at the length I needed at reasonable expense.

[andy10917]

Yeah, lighting can get expensive if efficiency is top on your list. My main aquarium has four 6' long bulbs, 96 watts each, and a super efficient ballast. The bulbs are square-tip Japanese things and cost $48 each. They only last 7-8 months before they lose their full-spectrum capabilities.

[MorpheusPA]

I hope it's enough; that's about 1,000 foot-candles, or a tenth as bright as sunlight (with a poorer spectrum), if the lamps are a foot away from the plants. I'll keep them low--a few inches off the plants--to raise that.

The expense to run isn't bad--it works out to about $50 for the ten weeks of the cloning/seeding season.

[MorpheusPA]

Now With Pictures! Click for larger image.

Lights off:


Lights on:

[andy10917]

Morph:

I am sure that I speak for ALL members when I say that we are impressed that the light switch works.

[GaryCinChicago]

Lights off:

Lights on:

Yes, Mr. Miyagi

[cactus]

Did you get a 'Clapper' for it?

[andy10917]

OK, I think we have tortured Morph enough. I started it.

Is anyone dissatisfied with fluorescent lighting enough to want to hear about the big advances in LED Lighting? I'll write about it if anyone cares...

[GaryCinChicago]

Is anyone dissatisfied with fluorescent lighting

My veggie starts do just fine with florescent shop lights, 18 hours / day, 1 to 2 inches above leafs. Biggest problem I have is keeping them cool enough in order to keep them short and stout.

[MorpheusPA]

Is anyone dissatisfied with fluorescent lighting enough to want to hear about the big advances in LED Lighting? I'll write about it if anyone cares...

At the price of LED lighting, I'm not dissatisfied enough to think about changing. This will be sufficient for seed-starting. They only need to get the things through their first eight weeks before they go outside, seven weeks of which (or less) is post-sprout.

Most of the ones I've seen for home lighting have poor color balance; that level of blue doesn't please my eye, which prefers a more golden light. I can get that (barely these days) with some good fluorescent bulbs in appropriate shades, or shielded by fabric.

Which is quite apart from plants, and I've read good things about LEDs as far as that goes. Which is a bit odd, as I thought the LED put out a single wavelength. You can certainly choose LEDs that hit the plant peaks, but the visual color would be extremely purple--fine in the cellar, wouldn't want them anywhere in the house where I live.

[andy10917]

Which is quite apart from plants, and I've read good things about LEDs as far as that goes. Which is a bit odd, as I thought the LED put out a single wavelength. You can certainly choose LEDs that hit the plant peaks, but the visual color would be extremely purple--fine in the cellar, wouldn't want them anywhere in the house where I live.

No more on the color problems. They are taking the aquarium world by storm. Cree (probably the most innovative manufacturer) has broken through the 200 lumens/watt barrier in the lab and 160 lumens/watt in commercial products. By comparison, fluorescents are around 65 lumens/watt.