Raised Garden Project

[Michael Wise]

I really enjoyed my first garden I had a couple years ago, but sucked at keeping up with weeding and watering maintenance. So, I'm gonna move this party above ground with some raises beds made from concrete blocks.

I'm using 8x8x16 and 4x8x16 blocks. Later on I may add another layer if 8x8x16, but for now just want to get started with one layer of those. 6 beds for now. Maybe more later. Each bed will be 14'x4' inside the blocks.

I'm also going to extend my irrigation mainline to the back yard and plumb the beds with drip irrigation.

This is going to be a long drawn out process, because I'm having to level each bed as I build it due to the slope of my back yard. And I don't work very hard or fast. It's not bad, but too sloped to not address.

These pics shows the mild grade I'm working on. The 6 blocks making a corner closest to the mower are level.

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[texasweed]

Hope it is not too late but I have a couple of tips that should help.

First thing I notice is it appears you did not grade and level the area. I suggest you do that.

While doing that excavate about 6 inches down, lay galvanized hardware cloth, then start laying the blocks. Fill each block with dirt. This will give you a rock solid foundation, keep moles, voles, and critters from tunneling in , and deeper soil depth. If you can get done before frost plant Hairy Vetch as a cover crop of green manure along with a good amount of compost.

If you really want to go fist class trench in PVC pipe from your water supply to use for drip irrigation. One thing you can do with the blocks is you should fill the cavities with dirt. I plant things like chives, and herbs in the cavities. Or even better in spring plant Marigolds and Chrysanthemum in the cavities which are natural insect repellents and insecticide. Aphids, mites, and spiders will not go near them along with most other insects

[Michael Wise]

That's how I'm doing the drip. It'll all be underground with a stub coming up inside each bed to connect the drip. I got a Hunter battery powered controller to automate things.

About the grading. Your saying I should grade the whole area? How come?

I'm leveling each bed individually. So the dirt inside will be level.



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[Michael Wise]

Also, the beds will be running long ways across the slope. Not up and down like it looks the majority of the blocks are in the pictures.


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[texasweed]

That's how I'm doing the drip. It'll all be underground with a stub coming up inside each bed to connect the drip.

You might want to consider just outside the bed on the end. Makes it a lot easier to work on.

About the grading. Your saying I should grade the whole area? How come?

No not the area, just the beds so the blocks stack plumb and level. Another thing is if you build the beds side by side to leave enough room for a lawn mower to pass. Don't ask how I know that.

[Michael Wise]

Thanks, Weed!

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[Michael Wise]

Another thing is if you build the beds side by side to leave enough room for a lawn mower to pass. Don't ask how I know that.

That's exactly the reason my mower is in that picture! Just to make sure it would fit.

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[Michael Wise]

Another thing about the grading.

When bringing the low spots up to grade, can I get by with adding dirt and thoroughly tamping the area to compact it as much as possible? Or should I use more blocks to raise the grade?

It is only about a 3"-4" drop over 4 feet. So it isn't much dirt to try and compact.

So far I've been using some 2x8x16 blocks to bring things up under the 8x8x16's.

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[Michael Wise]

Got one done this weekend. I left one end open so I could drive in a wheel barrow. I'll close it when most of the soil is in.

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[ckone]

looking good.

I was going to say you should run them that way, but obviously you did.

You plan on planting anything this season? or are you setting up for next spring?



Re the drip irrigation, some things are better with spray. I swapped out some of my drippers for sprays to grow carrots and kale. Will do the same for a bed of arugula.

I am working on the expansion of my garden now. I don't have the money for it, but I have time off work for paternity leave, and I am kindda bored. (if the kid is not asleep, he is latched onto mommas milk jug so I am getting projects done)

[Michael Wise]

I'm just getting started now for spring.

Thanks for the heads up on the drip. There will be 2 beds per zone. I could run more at a time, but wanted to run less for drip flexibility reasons. This will make it easier to have some beds with micro sprays, I think.

I'm cheating a little on these beds and using the pre installed emitter tubing. Drip is easy to change up, but I thought maybe the drip tubing would let me rotate crops easier without having to move emitters.

I'll give it a shot anyways. Like I said, easy to change up if it sucks.

You think sprays might be better for stuff like onions and potatoes, too?

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[ckone]

I think so on the sprays for onions/ potatoes. But if you are using the DIG stuff from HD the adjustable drip on a spike might work. If you have good water pressure and open them up, they will sorta spray. I will take a picture of one of mine for you so you can see what I am talking about. The only problem with this is sometimes the caps blow off.


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[texasweed]

Another thing about the grading.

When bringing the low spots up to grade, can I get by with adding dirt and thoroughly tamping the area to compact it as much as possible? Or should I use more blocks to raise the grade?

In my experience, I have learned the hard way instead of listening, is to cut the grade into the high side. You can get away with what you are talking about for 1 season if rain does not wash it away. What will happen eventually is erosion from water will wash away the soil you add to the low side. When it rains keep in mind the raised bed will act as a bath tub of sort and hold water. That water pressure is going to under cut the blocks supported by the soil washing the foundation away causing premature collapse of the wall made from the blocks.
It is only about a 3"-4" drop over 4 feet. So it isn't much dirt to try and compact.

One last bit of advice. Unless you use mortar and steel reinforcement bar hammered into the ground, do not go over 2 blocks high. Otherwise the pressure of the soil and water will push the blocks over. This is why you should have your first roll of block with the bottom 1/8 to 1/4 below grade to add support.

One last tip as you get a row of blocks laid, fill and pack soil into the cavity of the blocks.

[ckone]

ImageUploadedByYard Help1380117075.781234.jpg

That is covering about 18".


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[Michael Wise]

Cool! Thanks, ckone and texasweed!!!


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[Michael Wise]

Weed, I've lined out a tractor to borrow, and am going to redo the one "completed" bed, and do the rest as you suggest. I'll use the tractor to grade the individual plots the beds will sit.

Want to do this right the first time! Thanks for the advice!


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[texasweed]

Another tip.

Keep your tators out of raised beds. Takes up way too much room. Use bushel baskets, trash cans, water tanks, or a pile of sand loam. Tators like sandy soil. on the acidic side with lots of potassium.

I like bushel baskets. Fill with 6 inches of sand loam drop seed tators, cover with soil and stuff the rest with mulch or hay. Add more stuff as the season progresses. When ready bust the basket and pick up tators.