New 2017 irrigation system

[Riverpilot]

Hello all!

I'm going to have a new irrigation system installed for my lawn in April. The company that is doing it has been in business for 40+ years, has a good reputation, and has a large customer base they service on a yearly basis.

I've read through a bunch of posts on here, a BIG thank you to everyone on that. But I'm curious if anyone has any advice on what I should be looking for in terms of equipment, installation etc.. ?

Does anyone have regrets, or wishes they had done something differently now that you've had an irrigation installed?

The company I'm using uses Hunter for everything. I've read good and bad for using one company (Hunter) for all the equipment, but I'm fine with it overall. I am curious if anyone has used the new Hydrawise, rather than a Pro-C and Solar Sync?

Thank you very much for this awesome site! I wish I had found it years ago. Would have saved me multiple headaches over the years.

[chrismar]

Welcome to the site, and congrats on the new irrigation system!

I got my 15-zone system installed in the summer of 2015. Here's my list in no particular order:

1) Make sure they install with true head to head coverage. I've seen many installers (some so called reputable) cut corners and not do this. The result is non-uniform coverage and what looks like crop circles.

2) I wish I would have skipped the drip irrigation in the mulch beds. I barely use it and it was a waste of money.

3) Know how long it takes to get an inch of water on the ground by doing the tuna can test. Place a few tuna cans around the yard, turn the system on and time how long it takes to get an inch in the cans. The installer will tell you that a rotor can put down so much in an hour, but this doesn't take your water pressure and other factors into account.

4) Read up on deep and infrequent watering. Don't be like my neighbor who waters every zone for 15 minutes every night from April to October.

5) Create a program on your controller to run after fertilizer or other product applications. I have one that runs every turf zone for 20 minutes to put 1/4" of water on the ground to water in things if rain isn't coming soon. Don't put this program on a timer and save it for manual runs only.

That's all for now... I'll edit if I think of more.

[Riverpilot]

Welcome to the site, and congrats on the new irrigation system!

I got my 15-zone system installed in the summer of 2015. Here's my list in no particular order:

1) Make sure they install with true head to head coverage. I've seen many installers (some so called reputable) cut corners and not do this. The result is non-uniform coverage and what looks like crop circles.

2) I wish I would have skipped the drip irrigation in the mulch beds. I barely use it and it was a waste of money.

3) Know how long it takes to get an inch of water on the ground by doing the tuna can test. Place a few tuna cans around the yard, turn the system on and time how long it takes to get an inch in the cans. The installer will tell you that a rotor can put down so much in an hour, but this doesn't take your water pressure and other factors into account.

4) Read up on deep and infrequent watering. Don't be like my neighbor who waters every zone for 15 minutes every night from April to October.

5) Create a program on your controller to run after fertilizer or other product applications. I have one that runs every turf zone for 20 minutes to put 1/4" of water on the ground to water in things if rain isn't coming soon. Don't put this program on a timer and save it for manual runs only.

That's all for now... I'll edit if I think of more.

Thank you very much for the welcome. I really like this place.

1) Yes. I've made it very clear that this is what I expect, and they have stated they will do so, but... I have a feeling I'm going to be one of those pain in the rear customers who wants everything explained BEFORE it's done.

2) I'm not doing any drip irrigation. I thought about it, but decided I'll just use the old hose and nozzle for the flowers if needed.

3) Thank you. Very good point.

4) Yes, deep and infrequent. Which is one of the reasons I was thinking of using the new Hydrawise system. It seems that would better account for local rainfall amounts.

5) Thank you for the suggestion about the fertilizer program. I was going to create one for seeding in the fall. A separate one for fertilizer is a great idea.

Thanks very much for the suggestions and help.

[g-man]

1) Yes. I've made it very clear that this is what I expect, and they have stated they will do so, but... I have a feeling I'm going to be one of those pain in the rear customers who wants everything explained BEFORE it's done.

A good installer will actually do a drawing showing the distance between heads, gpm of each head, pressure loss thru each zone, valve box location. The design should account for elevation changes (ie use longer heads). I would like to see all of this with the quote, but would expect it 2 weeks prior to install (tied to a payment milestone).

A few other tips:

- ask for the sidewalk strips to be a separate zone that way should could control the amount of water it gets compared to the front yard.

- I like the MP nozzles from Hunter since gpm out of the nozzle is a constant.

- I prefer the Rachio controller since it is kept more up to date with integration of other system (ie amazon echo, IFTTT)

- this website has a ton of info. a lot more than yo really want to know, but their tutorial is very good to understand the choices/shortcut your installer made. http://www.irrigationtutorials.com/

[HoosierLawnGnome]

Figure out where YOU want the zones and tell them ahead of time. Plan zones for different watering schedules and needs. I.e. sidewalks have a zone different than the shady backyard, as you'll probably be watering sunny, hot sidewalk areas differently than a shady, wet backyard.

Have them hook it into untreated water of course if you're on a well. Check with your municipality to see if a separate irrigation line of untreated water is available, how much it would cost to put in etc - might save you some money. Every city is different.

Have them show you how to shut it off, turn it on, winterize, dewinterize - and what connectors are needed to blow it out with your own setup. Make sure you tell them where YOU want the valve boxes and backflow piping - you don't want to see it - put valve boxes in a mulch bed where you can cover with mulch, and the backflow piping somewhere you can mask easily. YOu're the boss - they figure out what YOU want done. Mark specific places with flags.

Make sure they use the vibrator plow, not a trencher for lines. It will tear up the yard much less. The probably use it, but best to ask.

Rachio works well for me! Not a good controller if you want to use the thing on the wall - you'll rely on your phone mostly. It works well with my Alexa and home automation system (based on Wink). Turn off the "auto adjust" settings and learn what zones take what watering and adjust manually - it will be better.

Don't use your system for fertilization.

I prefer hunter to rainbird.

[Riverpilot]

Thank you for the information g-man.

I've asked about drawings from this company, they said they'd come up with the plans the week before or so.
However, another company, the owner I've known for several years and I asked him to come up with a set of plans, so I have those to use/compare with the company I chose.

The reason I didn't go with the person I know, he is aimed at the higher clientele, hence his prices are 2-3 times as much as all the other companies. If I had the money I would use him, especially since they do everything by hand. Hand dig, hand trench, hand everything. They don't use machines etc to pull line. But.... too much money for me.

The sidewalk strips I elected to not do it. With all the salt the plows use in the winter, and the abuse it receives in the summer, I just didn't want to hassle with it. I can still add it on, but I'm thinking the negatives outweigh the positives.

I believe the company is going to use the PGJ. Possibly the MP on the side lawn.

I've perused that web site. Has a LOT of information. So much in fact, it had my head spinning after awhile. lol Thank you again.

[Riverpilot]

Thanks for the information Hoosier.

My neighbor installed the inside plumbing, so I know exactly where the shut off valves etc.. are.
The company stated they would do turn up and winterizing every year if I wanted them to. I believe it was $50 for each. But I'll definitely have them walk me through all that.

They did try to tell me the valve boxes would be in the lawn, which I immediately told them "no way". I want them in the mulch beds I have and won't settle for less.

Yes, they're using a vibrator plow for the lines.

Thanks again for all the information.

[Riverpilot]

I see Hunter has a new ProC controller with Hydrawise installed, called the Hunter PRO-HC.
I might ask for this to be installed. Looks like something I would use.

[1977212]

If you plan on keeping it mowed tall use 6in heads instead of 4.

[Tsmith]

Get a drawing of where they plan on putting each zone and the heads this way you get an idea where everything is going. Heads can be easily adjusted and moved so don't worry too much about where they end up and are spraying initially but this way you have something to reference.

Get a wifi enabled controller either with your install or by adding yourself after. This way you can control from your computer or phone which is awesome.

Enjoy! Getting irrigation is a tough pill to swallow but its great having it.

[Riverpilot]

I'm not sure what height of sprinkler heads they're using. I would presume they'd know what's what, but I'll definitely check. I plan on mowing at 3" the majority of time, perhaps lowering for the first time in spring and a late fall trim.

They've only put in one wifi controller, hydrawise, last year, but I'm looking into the new Hunter Pro-HC. It just came out, so I'm not sure about availability. If they can't get one, then I'll buy it down the road and have it installed.

I've asked for a drawing of where everything goes. However, I plan on creating my own with exact measurements where everything is. I may not need to use it, but the next homeowners will probably appreciate knowing where everything is.

[Riverpilot]

One question I do have, for anyone that knows...

How do the installers not damage tree roots when they're pulling the irrigation pipes? I'm being told they're using a vibratory plow, installing a depth of 6". I have three trees in my yard.

Thanks very much.

[LoneRanger]

They will keep there distance from any main roots. Usually that is 3-7', depending on the tree size. You will always hit some rooting, if you're near a tree. However, the tree will repair itself.

[Riverpilot]

They will keep there distance from any main roots. Usually that is 3-7', depending on the tree size. You will always hit some rooting, if you're near a tree. However, the tree will repair itself.

Thank you for the information. Two of the trees are close to the property line, I'll just make sure the installers choose the least invasive path to pull the line.

[Riverpilot]

If anyone is interested. The new Hunter Pro-HC is out and available for purchase. It's the Hunter Pro-C controller with Hydrawise software and wi-fi installed. I've already told my installer that's the controller I want.

[Riverpilot]

Paid the down payment today. That's always painful to part with that much money.

Should be learning when it will be installed later this week, or possibly next week.

[Riverpilot]

Still waiting for the final install date to be decided upon. All this rain has delayed the install. Possibly next week, but rain is forecast so..... lol

What's interesting is that the installer is stating the same price for the new Pro-HC (with hydrawise software) as the regular Pro-C controller. I'll double check before the install that it's really the Pro-HC he has and not the older HC model.

[LTCM]

- I like the MP nozzles from Hunter since gpm out of the nozzle is a constant.

The precipitation rate is constant across the standard MP Rotator line but the GPM varies depending on radius and arc. Either the short radius or corner strip nozzles have a different precipitation rate, although which one has slipped my mind at the moment.

But other than that, I agree with everything else in your post.

[g-man]

Yes, you are 100% correct on the radius and arc. What I really wanted to say is that they really offer a match precipitation rate, so you could mix and match valves within a zone. I will edit the post.

[Ric Clint]

Riverpilot,

Was this Install ever completed? Do you have any Pics or anything?



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