Ball valve replacement

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PSU4ME
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Ball valve replacement

Post by PSU4ME » April 12th, 2017, 7:33 am

My backflow device is a febco 765 and the first ball valve cracked this winter, guess it wasn't blown out well enough. Since the copper is soldered, can I just heat up that joint, disconnect it, unscrew, replace and then resolder or is there something I'm missing and it's not that easy?


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g-man
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Re: Ball valve replacement

Post by g-man » April 12th, 2017, 10:42 am

Youtube is best place to find answers to these questions. Here is one way to fix it. Be careful with soldering near the siding.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aggRgXxvTKi0

If it were me, I would cut the copper infeed line and add a threaded union, so I could take the whole assembly off instead of having to break it apart piece by piece. The outfeed line has a poly line with a clamp, so that it is easy to take apart.

Also, the blow out will not take the water away from this ball valve. Here is the guideline for freeze protection. http://media.wattswater.com/fp765.pdf

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Re: Ball valve replacement

Post by PSU4ME » April 12th, 2017, 7:11 pm

Thanks. I wanted to try and avoid messing with the poly connection because it never seems to seal back up but I guess I gotta do it

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Re: Ball valve replacement

Post by g-man » April 13th, 2017, 6:32 am

I've used two clamps on the poly connections if they leak. I also avoid the poly connection before the valves.

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Re: Ball valve replacement

Post by PSU4ME » April 13th, 2017, 8:47 am

Thanks g-man. I tried (quickly) last night to get the poly pipe off but looks like I'm going to need to heat it a bit. I have pretty high pressure so I'll definitely be using two clamps an I'm going to throw a third on there just in case!

I hate messing with this stuff but also hate paying someone to do it.

I think the reason it cracked was because I didn't leave the valves half open, I shut them and I assume it accumulated moister


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Re: Ball valve replacement

Post by ENVY23 » April 13th, 2017, 12:33 pm

Since you're already cutting the pipe, I would recommended installing a threaded quick disconnect, so you can easily remove and re-install the back flow preventer. I have one on my system, and after winterizing I remove the back flow preventer and rubber o-rings on the quick connect and store it in the garage. Then zip tie a plastic bag over each pipe to prevent any contaminants from getting in your water lines. Re-install in the spring.

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Re: Ball valve replacement

Post by PSU4ME » April 13th, 2017, 2:44 pm

Well i have a few options. I could cut the pipe. I could disassemble from the poly pipe on in (what i'm thinking of doing now) and replace the valve or I could desolder the copper pipe, swap the valve and solder it back in.

I might just disassemble it now to get the system back up and running and then i'll go back later (maybe close out time) and "quick disconnect" prep it.

Thoughts?

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PSU4ME
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Re: Ball valve replacement

Post by PSU4ME » April 15th, 2017, 12:56 pm

I picked up a union today, hopefully that will be the long term fix. I hope it seals good enough and doesn't leak!

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Re: Ball valve replacement

Post by PSU4ME » April 15th, 2017, 8:34 pm

Whelp, union is in. Didn't want to seal very well but I eventually got it. Got all zones ran so I got my tenacity watered in. Let's hope it holds!


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Re: Ball valve replacement

Post by g-man » April 15th, 2017, 9:28 pm

[quote=g-man post_id=303319 time=1492008132 user_id=6562]
Be careful with soldering near the siding.
[/quote]

It looks like the siding melted on the right side of the. Image.

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PSU4ME
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Re: Ball valve replacement

Post by PSU4ME » April 16th, 2017, 7:40 am

Haha yep! Don't tell the wife

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