Ball valve replacement
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Re: Ball valve replacement
Youtube is best place to find answers to these questions. Here is one way to fix it. Be careful with soldering near the siding.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aggRgXxvTKi0
If it were me, I would cut the copper infeed line and add a threaded union, so I could take the whole assembly off instead of having to break it apart piece by piece. The outfeed line has a poly line with a clamp, so that it is easy to take apart.
Also, the blow out will not take the water away from this ball valve. Here is the guideline for freeze protection. http://media.wattswater.com/fp765.pdf
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aggRgXxvTKi0
If it were me, I would cut the copper infeed line and add a threaded union, so I could take the whole assembly off instead of having to break it apart piece by piece. The outfeed line has a poly line with a clamp, so that it is easy to take apart.
Also, the blow out will not take the water away from this ball valve. Here is the guideline for freeze protection. http://media.wattswater.com/fp765.pdf
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Re: Ball valve replacement
Thanks. I wanted to try and avoid messing with the poly connection because it never seems to seal back up but I guess I gotta do it
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Re: Ball valve replacement
I've used two clamps on the poly connections if they leak. I also avoid the poly connection before the valves.
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Re: Ball valve replacement
Thanks g-man. I tried (quickly) last night to get the poly pipe off but looks like I'm going to need to heat it a bit. I have pretty high pressure so I'll definitely be using two clamps an I'm going to throw a third on there just in case!
I hate messing with this stuff but also hate paying someone to do it.
I think the reason it cracked was because I didn't leave the valves half open, I shut them and I assume it accumulated moister
I hate messing with this stuff but also hate paying someone to do it.
I think the reason it cracked was because I didn't leave the valves half open, I shut them and I assume it accumulated moister
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Re: Ball valve replacement
Since you're already cutting the pipe, I would recommended installing a threaded quick disconnect, so you can easily remove and re-install the back flow preventer. I have one on my system, and after winterizing I remove the back flow preventer and rubber o-rings on the quick connect and store it in the garage. Then zip tie a plastic bag over each pipe to prevent any contaminants from getting in your water lines. Re-install in the spring.
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Re: Ball valve replacement
Well i have a few options. I could cut the pipe. I could disassemble from the poly pipe on in (what i'm thinking of doing now) and replace the valve or I could desolder the copper pipe, swap the valve and solder it back in.
I might just disassemble it now to get the system back up and running and then i'll go back later (maybe close out time) and "quick disconnect" prep it.
Thoughts?
I might just disassemble it now to get the system back up and running and then i'll go back later (maybe close out time) and "quick disconnect" prep it.
Thoughts?
- PSU4ME
- Posts: 1147
- Joined: November 29th, 2016, 9:29 am
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Re: Ball valve replacement
I picked up a union today, hopefully that will be the long term fix. I hope it seals good enough and doesn't leak!
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Re: Ball valve replacement
[quote=g-man post_id=303319 time=1492008132 user_id=6562]
Be careful with soldering near the siding.
[/quote]
It looks like the siding melted on the right side of the. Image.
Be careful with soldering near the siding.
[/quote]
It looks like the siding melted on the right side of the. Image.
- PSU4ME
- Posts: 1147
- Joined: November 29th, 2016, 9:29 am
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Re: Ball valve replacement
Haha yep! Don't tell the wife
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