Soil test + Insect Killer + Glyphosate

[ATYU]

Hi all,

I was wondering if it makes sense to follow the below steps.

1st: take soil sample and send it to a lab for soil test.
2nd: throw down some Bayer Adv Insect Killer granules > Water the lawn
3rd: A week after that, apply glyphosate to kill my current lawn + Water the lawn
4th: two weeks after that, apply another round of glyphosate + Water the lawn

In Late august, I'll start with adding top soil, fertilizers, and seeds. But for now, do the above steps make sense or would applying glyphosate null out the effect of soil test and/or insect killer?

Thank you

[andy10917]

You will be the 3,263rd person that will be saying "I wish I had put down the seed sooner" when October rolls around. Shoot for August 15th if you can get the seed down then.

[TimmyG]

Why the pesticide? Without any context, step #2 doesn't make any sense.

Soil test, glyphosate, and pesticide are completely unrelated. The latter two are not going to change the composition of your soil.

[bpgreen]

You say that you'll send the soil sample to "a lab" for soil test. Keep in mind that if you want the soil gurus here to interpret it, you'll need to send it to Logan Labs, not just "a lab."

Why are you adding top soil? Is the level of your soil below the sidewalk? Unless your soil level is low, there's no need to add top soil.

[ATYU]

Thank you all for quick response.

1) I want to throw down some pesticide for the peace of mind (haven't really dug deep to look for grub worms of anything).
2) Good to hear that glyphosate won't interfere w/o soil/pesticide.
3) I was planning on using Rutgers University soil testing lab. Yay/Nay?
4) I wanted to add some top soil because I feel like my current soil is very compacted (will be aerating it before seeding) and adding some more top soil would only add value. Yay/Nay?
5) I am applying glyphosate to kill my weed infested Tall Fescue grass. Estimated area is about 3K Sq Ft. I want to plant KBG (Bewitched - Zone 7A). Is there any place y'all recommend that I get my seeds from? Seed Superstore has the Bewitched seeds but looks quite expensive for 5lb bag (or should I go with 10lbs?).

Thank you

[turf_toes]

Your call on the soil test lab. But the member volunteers who help do soil test interpretation here will tell you they only do Logan labs.

If you don't want or need their help, you can use the lab of your choice. But if you want their help, I'd check with them before using any other lab.

[Dchall_San_Antonio]

Check the soil test posts to see what kind of service you will get with a Logan Labs test. It's about a $250 value on a $25 investment.

Please don't "throw down" some insecticide for peace of mind. That is a waste of time, money, insecticide, and it is not good for your soil. Most of the insects in your soil are helpful to grow grass and to protect the turf from predators. A broad spectrum insecticide will wipe them out until they can become reestablished.

If you get a soil test and then add topsoil, you'll need to get a new soil test. The only time you need to add topsoil or sand is when you want to correct a drainage problem, as bpgreen mentioned. Adding topsoil to a garden that has good drainage can cause future rainfall to back up into a house or basement, because the drainage has been blocked. I have plenty of pictures of yards where the owners routinely applied 1/4-inch of topsoil every year...for 40 years. They raised their soil level by 10 inches and had to build barriers to hold it in. Crazy.

Cogitate on this plan:

1. NOW: Spray the yard with shampoo at a rate of 3 ounces per 1,000 square feet followed by 1/2 to 1 full inch of irrigation or rain. This will do much more to soften your "compacted" soil than core aerating. Your soil is much more likely to be hard from microbe depletion than from actual compaction. The shampoo and water will kick start the return of the microbes. Use any clear shampoo. Dollar Tree sells lots of fragrances for $1. Give this 3 weeks to show results. Try sticking a screwdriver into the ground now and again 3 weeks after spraying. It should go in easily when moist and harder when dry. That is normal. If it is not soft enough for you, spray more shampoo. You cannot overdo it with shampoo. My lawn was so soft after a rain that I had to be careful not to turn my ankle.
2. July 31st: Water the lawn 3x per day for 5 to 10 minutes just enough to moisten the surface of the soil. Continue that for a week. The idea is to sprout all the summer weed seeds you might still have.
3. August 5: Spray RoundUp and continue watering 3x daily as above. The idea is to kill the first round of summer weeds, and to continue to germinate the slow ones.
4. August 9: Spray RoundUp and stop watering.
5. August 13: Mow and/or rake up all the dead stuff and get it off the yard. Drop seed and roll it down with a water fillable roller. Restart the 3x per day watering regimen to sprout your new grass seed. KBG takes 3 weeks to get 80% germination, so keep after it. Mow down to your mower's highest setting when the grass is 5 inches high.

Yes, good seed is expensive.

[ATYU]

THANK YOU very much for this detailed plan.

1) Ok, seems like I'll go with Logan Labs for my testing.
2) I was going to use the Bayer Advanced Insect Killers for ants, fleas, and grubs mostly. Seems like a safe product (Yay/Nay?)
3) I just got Equate Baby shampoo. Hose end sprayer should arrive soon. Will start using that asap.
4) Should I apply RounUp and water right after or should I wait a week before watering?
5) Called a couple places for seeds. Seems like they're out of bewitched and will get it in stock mid-August. So I'm looking at end of August for seeding, is that too later?

[TimmyG]

2) I was going to use the Bayer Advanced Insect Killers for ants, fleas, and grubs mostly. Seems like a safe product (Yay/Nay?)

Safe in what way? FYI, Imidacloprid (systemic) is far from safe for the bees, so if you must apply, mow often and don't let white clover bloom, or you'll be a bee killer.
Do you have a known problem, like an actual problem, with any of those insects? Again, please don't apply "just because".

4) Should I apply RounUp (sic) and water right after or should I wait a week before watering?

Read the label. It will tell you how much time it needs to be rainfast, likely just a matter of hours. Then water per Dchall's advice.