Looking for suggestions to my lawn maintenance schedule

[surfnturf]

I am new at this, so please provide some feedback to what I have.

Background: My home is roughly 3,000 sq ft. I have deciduous trees in the front along with some bushes. My lawn is gets partial sun in the front and it's mostly shade on the other three sides. This lawn isn't going to be walked on much outside of my maintenance. I live in Zone 5B.I have compaction issues with my soil.

OVERSEED: Planting grass seed (need high soil contact)
1. Rake up dead grass
2. Cut grass length to 1.5 inches (once it reaches 3 inches)
3. Aerate soil
4. Drop seed and cover lightly with dirt

LAWN SCHEDULE:
1. (March/April) Crabgrass preemergent if you aren't growing grass (CAN'T SEED FOR GRASS for 4 months) ; take care of grubs now before they grow
2. (May/June) Fertilizer & broadleaf weed control (grass should be cut about 4 times before this step is done) 4-6 weeks after #1 (~Mother's Day or Memorial Day)
3. (July/Aug) Fertilizer (~4th of July)
4. Granular for lawn greenup next year (~Oct)

Being new to this, I think that I messed up my overseed last fall. I would rather forego crabgrass prevention, since I don't think I really have that as an issue. I'd rather rake up my leaves, aerate, and then overseed when the temps get between 50-65.

As far as my plan is set up, does anything look incorrect? Is anything missing? What are your thoughts on my course of action? I know the fall is the preferred time to do the overseed, but I am not trying to wait that long because I am not trying to go through the whole spring and summer with a lawn that needs work.

[Irisbergamot]

Hi there
Check out the Lawn Maintenance Schedule and Weed Control - Triangle Approach in the Articles section.
What worked for me starting out was to focus the first year on good mowing practices (1-2 x week, with a sharp mulching blade), proper watering (1/2 inch every 3 days) and weed control with the Triangle Approach.
Last week of August I over seeded (with the aeration and de-thatching - though most on this site will advise against this, rightfully so... but my lawn was a disaster and it benefited from it though I prob wouldn't do it again). And I used a quick germinating seed like TTF. Then I was able to utilize Andy's aggressive N program.

Focusing the year on mowing, watering and weed control with a fall overseed (look into sprout and pout and seed watering on this forum) should put you on course. I followed the forums guidance and basically this system for 1.5 years and my lawn is now holding off my neighbors weed farm.

[surfnturf]

Hi there
Check out the Lawn Maintenance Schedule and Weed Control - Triangle Approach in the Articles section.
What worked for me starting out was to focus the first year on good mowing practices (1-2 x week, with a sharp mulching blade), proper watering (1/2 inch every 3 days) and weed control with the Triangle Approach.
Last week of August I over seeded (with the aeration and de-thatching - though most on this site will advise against this, rightfully so... but my lawn was a disaster and it benefited from it though I prob wouldn't do it again). And I used a quick germinating seed like TTF. Then I was able to utilize Andy's aggressive N program.

Focusing the year on mowing, watering and weed control with a fall overseed (look into sprout and pout and seed watering on this forum) should put you on course. I followed the forums guidance and basically this system for 1.5 years and my lawn is now holding off my neighbors weed farm.

First, thank you for the article suggestion.

Why do they advise against an August overseed? Because it's not cool enough where you live? Did you use TTFF because this is the actual cultivar you wanted for your lawn...or were you indifferent, and chose it because it is a quick germinating seed?

[Irisbergamot]

August is most often deemed to be too hot of a month for growing grass seed. It's doable but not ideal. There also seems to be some other benefits with the fall time related to cooling soil temps/root development etc... Also maybe with the weeds being eliminated throughout the season you have more of a cleaner turf to deal with, not sure.

As a novice at the time I wanted a quick germinating cultivar because of the diligence required with keeping it moist (up to 3 x 15min intervals/day to start... using an impact sprinkler). Also, my turf is a good mix of KBG and perennial rye and so the TTTF just kind of rounds it out like a big salad. Moving forward I'll alternate beween KBG and TTTF from year to year (if needed).

I'm north of Toronto, Canada so my temps would prob be on par with mid Michigan.

(another reason against spring seeding; if I recall correctly, is that if the seed makes it through... it may not survive the summer weather)

[turf_toes]

Hi there
Check out the Lawn Maintenance Schedule and Weed Control - Triangle Approach in the Articles section.
What worked for me starting out was to focus the first year on good mowing practices (1-2 x week, with a sharp mulching blade), proper watering (1/2 inch every 3 days) and weed control with the Triangle Approach.
Last week of August I over seeded (with the aeration and de-thatching - though most on this site will advise against this, rightfully so... but my lawn was a disaster and it benefited from it though I prob wouldn't do it again). And I used a quick germinating seed like TTF. Then I was able to utilize Andy's aggressive N program.

Focusing the year on mowing, watering and weed control with a fall overseed (look into sprout and pout and seed watering on this forum) should put you on course. I followed the forums guidance and basically this system for 1.5 years and my lawn is now holding off my neighbors weed farm.

I’m curious who these folks are who you think advise against an August seeding are...

Seeding in mid August is a best practice for folks in the north and northern transition zone.

In fact, you’ll find folks here who claim you have missed the window if you don’t seed by mid September. (Which is still late summer)

A true fall seeding leaves very little time for grass to get established before the first hard freeze sets in.

[northeastlawn]

I know many part time landscapers, they are good at cutting grass, but will give me a lot miss information i just smile and go along with when it comes to growing it.

Part of the problem is on here many are doing reno's with KBG. They are using PR which germinates in 7-15 days.

They aren't wrong that August is tough if you don't have automated irrigation, many landscapers think PR thrown down in Sept won't need a lot of water. I think thats their thinking.

Ironically the last 3 years we have had very hot and dry falls. I can remember 90 deg heat waves in September where I can't wait for a few cool nights to start so my lawn can bounce back from the summer stress.

In some rare cases of a northern facing lawns, or areas in tree shade, spring seeding might be better as the angle of the sun changes in the fall. I have a few spots, where I swear the lawn does great in the spring, and thins out as soon as the leaves come in and the angle of the suns changes how much sunlight those spots get.

Every case is different, you have to adapt the suggestions for your area and type of grass seed.

[surfnturf]

I’m curious who these folks are who you think advise against an August seeding are...

Seeding in mid August is a best practice for folks in the north and northern transition zone.

In fact, you’ll find folks here who claim you have missed the window if you don’t seed by mid September. (Which is still late summer)

A true fall seeding leaves very little time for grass to get established before the first hard freeze sets in.

I was wondering about this myself. I missed my window last fall because even though I knew the soil temps should be around 50-65 for cool season grass...I was nervous about doing it too early, and so I dragged out my overseed until it too close to our first frost. Which ultimately resulted in me wasting grass seed.

[HoosierLawnGnome]

August is too hot for new seed? First or second week of august is perfect here in Indy normally, and I've even seeded in July with success but I've renovated a few times. Wisconsin should be good almost the full month of August given cooler temps.

Fertilize it regularly and lightly this spring. Like every other week half bag rate of a high N fertilizer 4 times ending memorial day. You'll be amazed how well it can close a few inch gap here and there. Overseed bare spots late summer. Cut it regularly like twice a week when needed and dont take off half the blade when you do. Water it deeply and infrequently when rainfall wanes.

Give BLSC a chance this spring before you core aerate unless you have construction type compaction. Check grade drainage to make sure water isn't pooling in those areas.

And check out using pest moss as a top dressing for seed rather than topsoil. Topsoil often has all sorts of weeds in it, and can bring in rocks too if they dont screen it well.

[lojack323]

Give BLSC a chance this spring before you core aerate unless you have construction type compaction.

+1

Before I found this site last year I was planning on plugging my yard. I could barely get a shovel in 1/2" into the ground without jumping on it. Thanks to the info on this forum and after changing cultural practices (I had a lawn guy prior to last year) in a few months I realized I didn't need to plug. I didn't end up needing to use BSLC though. A year ago the ground was so hard there was hardly a worm in sight, now it's a worm apocalypse if I pull a weed from the lawn.

[surfnturf]

Give BLSC a chance this spring before you core aerate unless you have construction type compaction.

+1

Before I found this site last year I was planning on plugging my yard. I could barely get a shovel in 1/2" into the ground without jumping on it. Thanks to the info on this forum and after changing cultural practices (I had a lawn guy prior to last year) in a few months I realized I didn't need to plug. I didn't end up needing to use BSLC though. A year ago the ground was so hard there was hardly a worm in sight, now it's a worm apocalypse if I pull a weed from the lawn.
[/q

What is BLSC and what does it do? Links would be appreciated as well.

I googled this and couldn't find anything.

[Irisbergamot]

and this is why this site has helped me so much. thanks for the wisdom on seeding in August.

[andy10917]

Seeding in the second half of August permits the longest window in the year for the grass to emerge (in the earliest part of September) and mature well before the end of the growing season (approx 2-3 weeks after first frost). And weed pressure is lower. Spring seeding are during periods of high weed pressure and the window is shorter before heat stress becomes a major stresser. More immature grass is lost to heat than colder season-end temperatures.