Moss to Boss Renovation

[andy10917]

Nah. If you haven't mowed a few times yet, try the safe one. Use 8 oz of Dawn Ultra dishwashing liquid in a half a gallon of water. Spray it on the moss. My experience is that its not the best moss killer, but it will harm the moss enough to buy you time until you can use ferrous sulfate. Try it in a test spot first for the young grass.

Don't use the Zinc Sulfate. It will kill grass at the concentrations that you would need. Yes, I know there are Zinc Sulfate based moss controls, but don't do it.

[Danbo]

Happy (almost) Spring folks!

The snow has finally melted enough for me to go out and investigate the new lawn situation. I have some questions/concerns regarding the upcoming season and how to proceed with the new lawn area.

As was the case at the end of last seaon, the grass has come in well in most spots, but weeds have shown up in others (no big deal). But the troubling part is that where the grass did not grow in, the moss has come back.

The grass is still very short, and even though I mowed it a few times last season, I don't think I cut anything. So I am concerned that the grass is still too fragile to be bombarding it with Dimension and moss treatments (iron?).

I would like to put down some pre-M next month, and also start a program to get rid of the moss (for good this time), but am concerned about harming the young grass.

What are the suggestions for the weed and moss issues, and also what should be the feeding schedule for the first year grass?

[jglongisland]

From everything I've read and the experience of others on this forum I think its been determined that grass that has gone through a winter can handle Pre-M and Weed-Killer. I had the same fear as you and used Tupersan instead of Dimension my first year and had a ton of Poa germinate. I'd get that Dimension down and be prepared to put it down again in early summer if we have another rainy spring as a bunch of us had poa germinating in June/July.

[GaryCinChicago]

+1 Jon

Over wintered grass is hardy and mature enough for herbicides.

Moss control products are generally iron sulfate based. http://www.hardwarestore.com/media/msds/100206.pdf
Again, over wintered grass can handle this.

[jglongisland]

Also, check your pH, moss seems to thrive in an acidic environment. If you correct the pH the moss will probably die away on its own.

[Wally]

How are the trees there? Do they provide a lot of shade? If so, it might help to have them thinned out to let light in.

[Danbo]

Will do with the Dimension.

ph as of last years soil test was 6.9 (buffer 7.0). Will submit another test this spring. I had a lot of tree work done last year to let "more" light into the area, and now I get enough light to actually grow grass, instead of just moss - about 4+ hours.

I think one of the issues is that the canopy of one of the remaining trees overhangs the lawn, and I think the tree roots are impeding the growth of new grass, even though technically there should be enough sunlight in these areas. Where the grass isn't filling in, the moss is.

Anyway, I'd like to start bombarding the area with iron, both to kill the moss, and to feed the grass for a nice green color. Any suggested application schedule...Morph, care to weigh in?