Chemical/Non Organic Fungicide Thread
- nclawnguy
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Chemical/Non Organic Fungicide Thread
I wanted to start a non organic fungicide thread as to not litter everyone's topics with chemical fungicide questions. As most of you know I apply fungicides as a preventative to my cool season tttf in North Carolina starting in Mid May through August. My main adversary is brown patch and some grey leaf spot. Products I have used the last few years are...Heritage, Armada, Eagle, Banner Maxx, Cleary's 3336 and Daconil.
An important thing to remember when applying chemical (non organic) fungicides is to rotate between classes/fungicide group. You never want to use the same fungicide or same class more than 1 or 2 times max before rotating to a different class. Not rotating can lead to resistance issues as well as some other problems. It is also important to know what you are applying to relation to the disease you are trying to prevent or cure. For instance, everyone loves Heritage, but if your problem is dollar spot, Heritage will not work. So it is important to read the labels and see what specific products control/prevent or cure what diseases.
Not all fungicides stay active for the same timeframe. Eagle or other DMI class fungicides are active for 14 days max, Heritage and other QoI/strobilurin fungicides can prevent for 28 days. Also, each fungicide has a preventative and curative rates, curative rates are usually double the preventative.
Here is a great publication from the University of Kentucky, great reading material to help you better understand this topic.http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/ppa/ppa1/ppa1.pdf
Another great resource is from NC State. http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/diseases/Brown_Patch.aspx They also break down specific diseases and fungicides that work on them. They also grade each product, which is helpful.
There are many other sites as well, Rutgers does a great job with their fungicide testing.
An important thing to remember when applying chemical (non organic) fungicides is to rotate between classes/fungicide group. You never want to use the same fungicide or same class more than 1 or 2 times max before rotating to a different class. Not rotating can lead to resistance issues as well as some other problems. It is also important to know what you are applying to relation to the disease you are trying to prevent or cure. For instance, everyone loves Heritage, but if your problem is dollar spot, Heritage will not work. So it is important to read the labels and see what specific products control/prevent or cure what diseases.
Not all fungicides stay active for the same timeframe. Eagle or other DMI class fungicides are active for 14 days max, Heritage and other QoI/strobilurin fungicides can prevent for 28 days. Also, each fungicide has a preventative and curative rates, curative rates are usually double the preventative.
Here is a great publication from the University of Kentucky, great reading material to help you better understand this topic.http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/ppa/ppa1/ppa1.pdf
Another great resource is from NC State. http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/diseases/Brown_Patch.aspx They also break down specific diseases and fungicides that work on them. They also grade each product, which is helpful.
There are many other sites as well, Rutgers does a great job with their fungicide testing.
Last edited by nclawnguy on May 28th, 2014, 1:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- HoosierLawnGnome
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Re: Non Organic Fungicide Thread
I had good results with leaf spot using Daconil.
A combination of Daconil and Bayer Advanced Fungicide took out my rust.
I've not used any of the expensive, "big guns" on my lawn - but fungus hasn't been a big problem for me in times past pre-renovation.
We'll see though - now that I'm heavily fertilizing a new monostand that could all change.
A combination of Daconil and Bayer Advanced Fungicide took out my rust.
I've not used any of the expensive, "big guns" on my lawn - but fungus hasn't been a big problem for me in times past pre-renovation.
We'll see though - now that I'm heavily fertilizing a new monostand that could all change.
- Othertime
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Re: Non Organic Fungicide Thread
I applied Disarm M to my backyard tttf stand last year. I had bp and it wiped it out. It was the first spring the reno had seen so i was expecting it to be rough the first summer. I am watching my tttf stand for bp right now and if and when it comes back it will get hit again.
Fast foward to now, my fall 2013 Bweitched mono stand got dollar spot so i applied Pillar G( pyraclostrobin and triticonazole) last week and will rotate that with and or something outside of group 11 fungicides(qol) this summer.
Cheers
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Fast foward to now, my fall 2013 Bweitched mono stand got dollar spot so i applied Pillar G( pyraclostrobin and triticonazole) last week and will rotate that with and or something outside of group 11 fungicides(qol) this summer.
Cheers
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- nclawnguy
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Re: Non Organic Fungicide Thread
Weather has been really dry (humid but no rain) and hot, last substantial rain was 13 days ago. We have missed heavy downpours the last few days that were a few miles north and south of me. So far haven't noticed anything going on with my turf. I applied Armada WP50 on the 12th, my next app will be cleary's 3336 in a couple weeks.Othertime wrote:I applied Disarm M to my backyard tttf stand last year. I had bp and it wiped it out. It was the first spring the reno had seen so i was expecting it to be rough the first summer. I am watching my tttf stand for bp right now and if and when it comes back it will get hit again.
Fast foward to now, my fall 2013 Bweitched mono stand got dollar spot so i applied Pillar G( pyraclostrobin and triticonazole) last week and will rotate that with and or something outside of group 11 fungicides(qol) this summer.
Cheers
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- Othertime
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Re: Non Organic Fungicide Thread
You got it on rain fall as of late. I had to water my front KBG last Friday as it was looking a little dry (2013 reno). Did not want to stress it out to much being that its the first spring and the kbg is a newb right now. It saw some heat and got scared as did I. I held off on the back yard to see what it could handled and it was showing a some signs of drought stress in the center of the yard but last night we got about .75 inch of rain and it perked right back up. Call me impressed with the tttf in the backyard going on almost 2 weeks in which we had 80+ days and two 90+ days. Mowed tonight and saw a little of bp down low in the blades in some areas, probably 300 square feet total of patches (12k backyard).nclawnguy wrote:Weather has been really dry (humid but no rain) and hot, last substantial rain was 13 days ago. We have missed heavy downpours the last few days that were a few miles north and south of me. So far haven't noticed anything going on with my turf. I applied Armada WP50 on the 12th, my next app will be cleary's 3336 in a couple weeks.Othertime wrote:
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How many years have you been actively preventing fungus in your tttf stand with chemical applications?
- nclawnguy
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Re: Non Organic Fungicide Thread
Othertime wrote:How many years have you been actively preventing fungus in your tttf stand with chemical applications?
3rd season for me. I would get hit with brown patch to some extent every summer. Hot weather, high humidity and afternoon storms are not a good combo for cool season lawns here. Dryer summers, which we haven't had in a while, aren't too bad. Last year was the big test, we had a ton of rain in the southeast, over 12" in june alone. My lawn made it through great. I got hit woth a little GLS in August...but even that wasn't too bad. Since I've been applying preventatively, my lawn has made it through with little or no disease. I may get a spot here and there, nothing really noticable.
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Re: Non Organic Fungicide Thread
This is a good explanation http://extension.psu.edu/pests/plant-di ... hizoctoniaOthertime wrote: Mowed tonight and saw a little of bp down low in the blades in some areas,
- Othertime
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Re: Non Organic Fungicide Thread
Thanks Gary! Keeping an eye on it. We are getting some cooler weather now which is is better.GaryCinChicago wrote:This is a good explanation http://extension.psu.edu/pests/plant-di ... hizoctoniaOthertime wrote: Mowed tonight and saw a little of bp down low in the blades in some areas,
- BuckeyeChuck
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Re: Chemical/Non Organic Fungicide Thread
Same experience and same chemicals as HLG last year by coincidence. No chems used this yr so far. I do have some on hand for emergencies so I can pull the trigger quickly if I need to.
- GeorgiaDad
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Re: Chemical/Non Organic Fungicide Thread
So how are you guys making out? How about some updates?
- nclawnguy
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Re: Chemical/Non Organic Fungicide Thread
I'd give my results an A+. I have zero signs of disease. I used a rotation of Armada and Cleary's 3336 mixed with daconil.GeorgiaDad wrote:So how are you guys making out? How about some updates?
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- HoosierLawnGnome
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Re: Chemical/Non Organic Fungicide Thread
Well I have had much more success having no fungus with chemicals than biofungicides so I'm currently leaning towards a chemical rotation.GeorgiaDad wrote:So how are you guys making out? How about some updates?
Rust, summer patch, and some leaf spot are my nemesis.
Once I get them they come on strong. I also like that they require less frequent applications than biofungicides.
I just don't think the biofungicides are strong enough to combat my particular conditions.
And yes the new grass and increased fertilization probably all play into that.
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Re: Chemical/Non Organic Fungicide Thread
I'm in the same boat here. The bi-weekly to weekly spray apps are tough to keep up with the biofungicide plan and even though I did this spring (with heavy rates) I still got hit with something this summer. Heritage was dropped and it was cleared up and once the lawn out grew the ugliness, all was good again.HoosierLawnGnome wrote:Well I have had much more success having no fungus with chemicals than biofungicides so I'm currently leaning towards a chemical rotation.GeorgiaDad wrote:So how are you guys making out? How about some updates?
Rust, summer patch, and some leaf spot are my nemesis.
Once I get them they come on strong. I also like that they require less frequent applications than biofungicides.
I just don't think the biofungicides are strong enough to combat my particular conditions.
And yes the new grass and increased fertilization probably all play into that.
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I'm tempted to keep up with the Serenade in the Spring/Fall for small things like Rust/PM/Red Thread and use Heritage/Daconil during the summer. Our summer is so short here, I can probably get away with just 1 app of each (42 days coverage) or maybe 2 apps of Daconil (56 days coverage).
I'll also more than likely be adding in Daconil on the other two lawns I take care of in the Spring to prevent Red Thread. I know it's not a big deal, but it's ugly and causes the lawn to look bad in the Spring/Early Summer for at least a month - Not ideal if it can be stopped with an app or two of Daconil, compared to a handful of Serenade apps maybe stopping it.
- Othertime
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Re: Chemical/Non Organic Fungicide Thread
The kbg in the front yard is doing great with the preventative regime I have put down this year.
Here is what I have done:
5/22 I applied Pillar G as preventative, Pillar G is QOI (pyraclostrobin) and DMI (triticonazole) which provided 28 days protection.
6/18 and 6/30 I sprayed Manicure (generic daconil) at 14 day intervals dosing (2 sprays puts me another 28 days of protection)
7/17 sprayed Disarm M (fluoxastrobin QOI + myclobutanil DMI) at 28 days protection
I plan on resuming manicure (1 or two more) spray after 28 days expires from the Disarm M spray which will get me into September and the cooler temperatures.
The backyard tttf has had Disarm M applied twice after brown patch broke out. It is looking great now. Might apply some daconil once I reach my 28 days after application of Disarm M.
Here is what I have done:
5/22 I applied Pillar G as preventative, Pillar G is QOI (pyraclostrobin) and DMI (triticonazole) which provided 28 days protection.
6/18 and 6/30 I sprayed Manicure (generic daconil) at 14 day intervals dosing (2 sprays puts me another 28 days of protection)
7/17 sprayed Disarm M (fluoxastrobin QOI + myclobutanil DMI) at 28 days protection
I plan on resuming manicure (1 or two more) spray after 28 days expires from the Disarm M spray which will get me into September and the cooler temperatures.
The backyard tttf has had Disarm M applied twice after brown patch broke out. It is looking great now. Might apply some daconil once I reach my 28 days after application of Disarm M.
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Re: Chemical/Non Organic Fungicide Thread
Whoa, glad I stumbled across this thread! I've been searching the site, trying learn and come up with a preventative fungicide plan for next year. With ~18k, I like the idea of applying less frequently. Being my first time with a KBG lawn, along with it being early in my fungicide research, I have no idea what I'm looking for or what I'm trying to prevent. I like Othertime's plan, but maybe some others in the south/southeast with KBG can help me determine what I'm looking for? Any tips or links to useful treads would be greatly appreciated.
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Re: Chemical/Non Organic Fungicide Thread
Just ordered myself some Armada 50 WDG. Going to rotate that with Daconil as needed - Once the Dac runs out, I'll pick up some 3336 to rotate with the Armada. Seems like a good value compared to Heritage and lasts longer than Daconil, which is nice when spraying nearly 25k total.
Tried Daconil on the NoMix lawns I take care of to hopefully stop/prevent red thread - I know it's nothing serious, but it causes the lawn to look terrible all of June. I was slightly too late as it's already starting on both lawns, but I'm hoping 2 heavy Daconil apps 14 days apart will kick it in the a$$.
I'll probably follow up those 2 apps with some Armada just as a general preventative. I will probably use some Armada on my own lawn to hopefully prevent leaf spot, rust, PM which seem to happen every year at some point.
Tried Daconil on the NoMix lawns I take care of to hopefully stop/prevent red thread - I know it's nothing serious, but it causes the lawn to look terrible all of June. I was slightly too late as it's already starting on both lawns, but I'm hoping 2 heavy Daconil apps 14 days apart will kick it in the a$$.
I'll probably follow up those 2 apps with some Armada just as a general preventative. I will probably use some Armada on my own lawn to hopefully prevent leaf spot, rust, PM which seem to happen every year at some point.
- wis99ski
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Re: Chemical/Non Organic Fungicide Thread
Ordering heritage today, not messing around with pythium blight or root rot on a <1yr old reno. Reno is peaking and when you're peaking there is only one way to go from the top...
- wis99ski
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Re: Chemical/Non Organic Fungicide Thread
Why do many say they are staying away from fungicides like heritage and only using it as a last resort? Is it cost of the product or harshness to the soil Eco?
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Re: Chemical/Non Organic Fungicide Thread
Pretty sure it's because it's not good for the micro herd. That's why people here use Serenade as a preventive. Expensive too
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Re: Chemical/Non Organic Fungicide Thread
There's a thought that it'll harm the microherd - It's not something confirmed and many members that do regularly use fungicides still have soils that gobble up OM. If you have something serious that you want to stop asap, heritage is one of the top options for sure.
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