Scotts Moss Control (Fe) questions

Kentucky bluegrass, Fescue, Rye and Bent, etc
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Green
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Scotts Moss Control (Fe) questions

Post by Green » March 2nd, 2016, 1:29 am

Only doing one Milorganite app this Spring, but wanted some extra iron.

Is this a good product to do that? http://www.scotts.com/smg/goprod/scotts ... od10700034

Any major interactions with specific soil chemistry I'd need to think about if using?

Also, this old thread makes reference to the product containing Magnesium. http://aroundtheyard.com/post86686.html?hilit=scotts moss#p86686 I don't see it on the current product label: http://www.scotts.com/smg/products/Scot ... anules.pdf

Thanks for the advice.

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Re: Scotts Moss Control (Fe) questions

Post by TimmyG » March 2nd, 2016, 1:31 pm

Valid arguments here have always concluded that you can't beat using Milorganite (Bay State, etc.) for iron. The Scotts moss control product is worth considering if you find it at clearance price and you need the other minerals. But at normal prices, it doesn't come close to the iron bang for the buck of Milorganite.

The type of iron also matters. Andy has commented on this a few times recently, particularly for those with high pH, again concluding that Milorganite is the way to go. I think "chelated" was mentioned...something to consider as a search term.

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Re: Scotts Moss Control (Fe) questions

Post by andy10917 » March 2nd, 2016, 1:52 pm

I bookmarked this for a more detailed response later when I have time.

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Re: Scotts Moss Control (Fe) questions

Post by andy10917 » March 2nd, 2016, 8:14 pm

In simple terms, picture "chelation" as a way to keep the Iron from immediately reacting with the high-pH soil and becoming unavailable. Whether done chemically or through a biological compound, it buys time. Milorganite has the biological compound, because Milorganite is the remains of microscopic bacteria that ate the raw material.

Moss Control granules are Iron Sulfate, at a price premium for writing "Moss Control" on the bag. No magic, and they are subject to all the standard good and bad things about Iron Sulfate.

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Re: Scotts Moss Control (Fe) questions

Post by stephensilva1 » March 2nd, 2016, 8:37 pm

Just curious, but would the amount of iron sulfate in the typical FAS sprays (4 oz/k) be enough to prevent/eliminate moss as compared to "Moss Out"/other products?

Then again, I know we try to maximize foliar absorption with our FAS sprays, whereas a soil-based application would probably be preferable for that situation.


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Re: Scotts Moss Control (Fe) questions

Post by andy10917 » March 2nd, 2016, 8:53 pm

You answered your own question. It's Apples and Kumquats...

For Moss control, I prefer the Dawn Dishwashing Liquid trick. All treatments are temporary for Moss anyway.

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Re: Scotts Moss Control (Fe) questions

Post by stephensilva1 » March 2nd, 2016, 9:52 pm

Yeah that's what I eventually found out, so I just extended the mulch beds to cover that shadier section of the lawn and will be planting some shade-loving plants there instead.

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Re: Scotts Moss Control (Fe) questions

Post by andy10917 » March 2nd, 2016, 10:03 pm

and will be planting some shade-loving plants there instead
Hosta!! Hosta!! How do you think I wound up with 600-700 of them?

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Re: Scotts Moss Control (Fe) questions

Post by Green » March 2nd, 2016, 10:05 pm

What are the criteria for picking between chelated iron, iron sulfate, and iron sucrate? And is there any other type of iron that should be considered?

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Re: Scotts Moss Control (Fe) questions

Post by andy10917 » March 2nd, 2016, 10:15 pm

It's a question of diminishing returns for other options. If the pH is below 7, Iron Sulfate and Iron Sucrate are viable. Above 7, Chelation is good but expensive. Milorganite is Milorganite - you know the drill there.

Of course, we could recommend an Iron Maiden -- it solves many problems...

Image

Green
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Re: Scotts Moss Control (Fe) questions

Post by Green » March 2nd, 2016, 10:17 pm

andy10917 wrote:It's a question of diminishing returns for other options. If the pH is below 7, Iron Sulfate and Iron Sucrate are viable. Above 7, Chelation is good but expensive. Milorganite is Milorganite - you know the drill there.

Of course, we could recommend an Iron Maiden -- it solves many problems...

Image
Very interesting information also here, which is interesting, but the overall theme seems to be there is no perfect iron source.

http://grounds-mag.com/mag/grounds_main ... _improves/

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Re: Scotts Moss Control (Fe) questions

Post by Green » March 2nd, 2016, 10:18 pm

What are application rates like typically? What units are used?

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Re: Scotts Moss Control (Fe) questions

Post by TimmyG » March 3rd, 2016, 1:13 am

Green wrote:Very interesting information also here, which is interesting, but the overall theme seems to be there is no perfect iron source.

http://grounds-mag.com/mag/grounds_main ... _improves/
Interesting assessment of "iron humate" in that article, which I presume to be the form of iron found in Milorganite, Bay State, and other biosolids (wastewater/sewage sludge) fertilizers.

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Re: Scotts Moss Control (Fe) questions

Post by seiyafan » March 3rd, 2016, 1:52 am

Do you make swiss cheese with that Iron Maiden?

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Re: Scotts Moss Control (Fe) questions

Post by Wally » December 12th, 2020, 10:48 am

How late into the fall early winter can moss in turf be knocked down? When does it go dormant for the winter, if it does?

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Re: Scotts Moss Control (Fe) questions

Post by turf_toes » December 12th, 2020, 11:40 am

Wally wrote:
December 12th, 2020, 10:48 am
How late into the fall early winter can moss in turf be knocked down? When does it go dormant for the winter, if it does?
That depends on your local growing conditions. Doing it during colder months is best as the moss sends out spores then.

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Re: Scotts Moss Control (Fe) questions

Post by MorpheusPA » December 12th, 2020, 11:42 am

Any time, really. Moss continues to photosynthesize right under freezing, it's one of Those Plants, and can function even under a blanket of snow to some extent. It doesn't ever go dormant in eastern PA or NJ, our temperatures will never get cold enough even during our freak cold snaps that approach zero.

It actually spores out more in cold weather than warm.

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Re: Scotts Moss Control (Fe) questions

Post by Wally » December 12th, 2020, 4:52 pm

Interesting, I do notice it turning a light green so you notice it more.

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Re: Scotts Moss Control (Fe) questions

Post by Green » December 12th, 2020, 7:47 pm

From my research, moss control tends to be optimal in late Winter or early Spring, before the reproduction phase really gets going. That way, you break the cycle and have better control. Same idea as killing a broadleaf weed before it makes seeds.

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