my struggle with weed prevention and management

[kbgfarmer]

so the glypho doesn't make it's way into the rhizome system when i paint them?

It does but unfortunately some of the rhizomes are dormant and thus are unaffected. It resprouts from dormant rhizomes that awaken. Best case is to get it before its old enough to have sent out rhizomes and then you're one and done. This is an evil evil weed my friend just like the unwanted POA brothers Mr. T and A and it sticks out worse than the both combined. I nuked my entire lawn with glyphosate a few years back and reseeded with a no-mix blend and guess what returned like it never left? This is a weed that requires a long term strategy and you will be fighting it for years. It's one of the reasons that so many nuke, fallow, nuke again, fallow etc before seeding during a renovation. The thought is that you kill whats above, water and hope dormant rhizomes awaken and sprout only to kill them again until they are all gone. Best of luck. This is the weed that keeps me up at night trying to come up with desperate plans to get rid of it because the nuke option is like starting from day one and its no guarantee.

[timingchainslipped]

thanks guys, for all the comments. it's nice to feel supported, especially when it feels like a losing battle.

here are some pictures that i think help illustrate my two biggest problems as of now:

1) lawn mainly not growing
2) quack

while we devise a strategy together, i guess i'll keep painting these little bastards.







things to consider: i was careful not to seed to densely to avoid fungal issues as reported by other members who have. but not all areas filled in completely, some are sparse. when it comes to over/reseed this fall i can glypho the sparse areas so i have a fresh canvas or determine an even lighter seed rate given grass is already down (sparsely) in those areas.

[timingchainslipped]

hey guys,

hoping for more help with my quackgrass problem that has expanded into a potential poa triv problem too.

so i've read another post where after mowing, areas that were previously dark are now noticably lighter. from that post i gather that i need to pull a handful of it and see if i can detect a system of stolons. i'm not a botonist, but i do believe some of these patches suffer from a system of stolons. it's hard to tell because these areas seem to collect the peat moss type material that doesn't exist in other "normal" parts of the lawn. i've done this, and will attach a photo shortly. i can get more tomorrow if they need to be better.

i see that certainty is a selective postm that'll kill off both of these problems if applied carefully according to instructions. i also see that certainty is "brutal".

granted, my lawn just really started looking good, especially after the FAS applications and the weekly double bag rate of vitamin-m, the biofungicide regimen with KH? it's really starting to look up. everyone that comes over is impressed, save for the brown glypho patches where quack used to be. and they don't see all the imperfections that i see, like for example almost 70% of my lawn still isn't tall enough to cut yet for reasons i still don't understand.

my thinking is, rather than just leave well enough alone, i'll blanket spray the whole property with certainty. if there is any poa triv hiding that i can't see, it'll get it. and i think it'll take out the quackgrass too and it'll be a hell of a lot quicker than painting it with glypho which takes forever, and while i've certainly changed the tide of the war in my favor, many battles remain.

i'm thinking after i run the course of certainty, i'll do a diagnostic dose of tenacity. any swaths that don't change color, i'll hit with barricade so that nothing undesirable can come back. the swaths that do change color, i imagine i'll have to deal with on a case by case basis and if that means glypho/fallow and reseed then obviously i can't put down the pre-m. same goes for the areas that didn't take last fall, i'll have to nurse them until seed time. for the barren areas, i was thinking i'd put down something at 1/4 rate that has a 3 month lifespan, so that right as i need to see sep1 it would have to have worn off and be safe for seeding. and i still have 3/4 of my yearly tenacity allotment left for protecting the areas with the seedlings.

thoughts?

[timingchainslipped]

some potential mugshots:







can anyone id the perp?

[timingchainslipped]

i don't see a pointed liguile, in anything that i pulled that was light colored, fyi.