Kentucky bluegrass, Fescue, Rye and Bent, etc
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Green
- Posts: 6838
- Joined: September 14th, 2012, 10:53 pm
- Location: CT (Zone 6B)
- Grass Type: KBG, TTTF, TTPR, and FF (various mixtures)
- Lawn Size: 10000-20000
- Level: Experienced
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by Green » June 22nd, 2017, 12:25 pm
Fronta1 wrote: ↑June 21st, 2017, 11:41 pm
Here's what's nuts about this whole thing...After doing all that back and forth and complicated mumbo jumbo, it's as simple as always using one third kbg as tttf to achieve 50/50 from the start because the avg seeding rate for tttf is 9 and kbg is 3.
Awesome!
Now...I get it...but how does the aforementioned 90/10 percentage fit into that? Seems to me your reasoning (which seems sound) would produce a different ratio.
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Green
- Posts: 6838
- Joined: September 14th, 2012, 10:53 pm
- Location: CT (Zone 6B)
- Grass Type: KBG, TTTF, TTPR, and FF (various mixtures)
- Lawn Size: 10000-20000
- Level: Experienced
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by Green » June 22nd, 2017, 12:42 pm
I guess a lot of this is an experience thing...
Those fortunate enough to have done a bunch of mixed-stand renos probably have more real-world advice on this topic.
One thing I have noticed in my limited number of renos, is that when you're mixing KBG with PR, it usually takes more KBG seed than it does if your mixing with TF to get the same sort of ratio. The PR is just typically more competitive toward the KBG...versus TF, which doesn't seem as competitive.
I've also noticed that it's not just the seed ratios that matter. Watering during germination...full germination period...of the KBG...is key when mixing KBG with PR. The KBG is much more competitive that way. Timing, too...some people have even gone so far as to give their KBG seed a one-week head-start before putting the PR seed down.
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Billy
- Posts: 445
- Joined: June 7th, 2016, 3:49 pm
- Location: Fayetteville, AR
- Grass Type: Cool season and warm season
- Lawn Size: Not Specified
- Level: Not Specified
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by Billy » June 22nd, 2017, 3:20 pm
In situations like this, I'm wondering what the goal is. What are we trying to get by having half the area covered with KBG plants and half the area covered with TF plants? Before that, did anyone account for germination rate in your calculations? If we're really concerned about having the same number each type of plant, we have to remember to account of PLS (pure live seed).
But, back to the original question, what are we trying to achieve? The population of species in your lawn is going to change over time in accordance to the microclimate for the various sites. For example, there will be more TF in the shaded spots and in the dry spots, while there will be more KBG in the sunny areas (maybe) and the irrigated areas. If you get any thin spots, those will fill in with KBG (since it spreads), but not TF.
My point is that since the composition of the lawn is going to change over time in favor of whatever works best for that microclimate, there's not much benefit to trying to make sure there's exactly the same amount of plants of each species. Just getting started is the key, then keeping some seed handy if you need to encourage some ares that get weak over time is the best way to go, in my opinion.
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PSU4ME
- Posts: 1150
- Joined: November 29th, 2016, 9:29 am
- Location: Metrowest MA
- Grass Type: Front: Bewitched/Midnight/Everglade Back: Midnight/Diva/Everest
- Lawn Size: 20000-1 acre
- Level: Some Experience
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by PSU4ME » June 22nd, 2017, 4:33 pm
I think it's important to consider up front but not over think it because things will change. If you want kbg in your lawn, you need to put enough down initially so that it takes and there is a good general spread. From there it does what it can.
And, no matter how hard you try, you'll get other junk in there as well. I spend more time saying "now what the hell is this" than anything else!
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andy10917
- Posts: 29744
- Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
- Location: NY (Lower Hudson Valley)
- Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
- Lawn Size: 1 acre-2 acre
- Level: Advanced
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by andy10917 » June 22nd, 2017, 4:41 pm
And, no matter how hard you try, you'll get other junk in there as well. I spend more time saying "now what the hell is this" than anything else!
Even that changes with time. You get to the point where you can identify weeds at full walking speed. My wife thinks I go out to enjoy the lawn, but I'm actually thinking: "Aw damn, Oxalis. Sh!t, Stiltgrass! Kill me, more Triv!". It's so relaxing...
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nocsious
- Posts: 68
- Joined: November 8th, 2016, 1:21 am
- Location: Lenexa, KS
- Grass Type: Tall Fescue
- Lawn Size: Not Specified
- Level: Not Specified
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by nocsious » June 22nd, 2017, 5:23 pm
andy10917 wrote: ↑June 22nd, 2017, 4:41 pm
And, no matter how hard you try, you'll get other junk in there as well. I spend more time saying "now what the hell is this" than anything else!
Even that changes with time. You get to the point where you can identify weeds at full walking speed. My wife thinks I go out to enjoy the lawn, but I'm actually thinking: "Aw damn, Oxalis. Sh!t, Stiltgrass! Kill me, more Triv!". It's so relaxing...
It gets worse. I have my 7 year old daughter telling me the neighbor has too much clover and oxalis in their grass.
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Marinegrunt
- Posts: 483
- Joined: October 25th, 2016, 10:37 am
- Location: Central IL
- Grass Type: TTTF + 10% KBG
- Lawn Size: 10000-20000
- Level: Some Experience
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by Marinegrunt » June 22nd, 2017, 10:24 pm
I've read other posts where some say too much kbg in a tttf lawn looks like crap. Since fescue grows in bunches, if there is too much kbg, you really notice the bunches. I think when you add kbg to a tttf you pretty much want and have a tttf lawn. The kbg added isn't for looks but more for the spreading and knit factor. Your lawn would look more uniform if you went 100% tttf but you won't have the spreading and you'll be overseeding more often.
The more you read the more opinions you get. From what I gather I wouldn't go more than 20% though but 10% is what is recommended by most.
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