Grubs, patch, and reno
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- Posts: 35
- Joined: June 9th, 2017, 5:27 pm
- Location: Lincoln, NE
- Grass Type: Bewitched, Award, Mazama
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Grubs, patch, and reno
I guess I got lucky with summer patch and grubs in the backyard. I was wanting to reno the backyard in sections each year. My question is whether or not to be concerned with grubs and/or the patch disease before slit seeding? I have dethatched already with my tow-behind dethatcher, have scalped, and would be interested in laying down some compost before seeding. Do I need to do anything about the grub, or patch issues before seeding?
- HoosierLawnGnome
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Re: Grubs, patch, and reno
If you have grubs, you can knock them out with dylox pretty handily, and it's pretty seed-safe. Just read the label and follow it.
Next year, since you know you have grub problems - allocate some money for a preventative grub app using the newer grub-x active ingredient.
Makes notes of where you have summer patch for next year - and be prepared to go at it hard and early - there's a nice, long summer patch prevention thread to subscribe to.
Next year, since you know you have grub problems - allocate some money for a preventative grub app using the newer grub-x active ingredient.
Makes notes of where you have summer patch for next year - and be prepared to go at it hard and early - there's a nice, long summer patch prevention thread to subscribe to.
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- Posts: 35
- Joined: June 9th, 2017, 5:27 pm
- Location: Lincoln, NE
- Grass Type: Bewitched, Award, Mazama
- Lawn Size: 20000-1 acre
- Level: Some Experience
Re: Grubs, patch, and reno
Thanks. Will the patch affected areas be okay with compost and seeding? I don't have to worry about fungicide before seeding?
- HoosierLawnGnome
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Re: Grubs, patch, and reno
Read up on summer patch. It will basically 'always' be in that soil until it's eradicated. Grass will still grow above it, but once the roots hit that pathogen - the risk for it becoming infected is there - and I'd assume it will be there next summer.
Core aerating the SP-infected spots and then applying fungicide right now would help suppress the desease, but you'd still need to think about preventing it next year - it's very difficult to kill chemically. Summer patch won't be evident in a few weeks as temps cool.
Physical removal of the infected soil and replacing with clean soil is even better. If it's only a few spots, a few bags of clean topsoil and a spade is a lot cheaper than a bottle of Heritage for applications over the next few years. Even so, you may still have the disease in other spots.
Core aerating the SP-infected spots and then applying fungicide right now would help suppress the desease, but you'd still need to think about preventing it next year - it's very difficult to kill chemically. Summer patch won't be evident in a few weeks as temps cool.
Physical removal of the infected soil and replacing with clean soil is even better. If it's only a few spots, a few bags of clean topsoil and a spade is a lot cheaper than a bottle of Heritage for applications over the next few years. Even so, you may still have the disease in other spots.
- HoosierLawnGnome
- Posts: 9591
- Joined: May 22nd, 2013, 5:59 pm
- Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
- Grass Type: Blueberry KBG
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Re: Grubs, patch, and reno
ETA: No, you don't need to kill the fungus to get grass growing there now.
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