Propiconazolefor brown patch

[wis99ski]

About half of my back yard looks like it’s hit again with brown patch. I was doing preventative with Heritage G too, maybe went too light. Looking to pick up some Propiconazole to give it a try. Anyone guess on recovery time?

[Marinegrunt]

Recovery will be dependent on how far along it is and how much damage has already been done.

We were just talking about Propicazonole. There's a place that sells the 41.8% for $99 per gallon. Compare that to $90 for the 14.3% per gallon it's like getting almost 3 gallons for free. If you need it asap Dan10 said the Bayer Advanced Fungus Control for Lawns has Propicazonole in it and is available at big box stores.

Sounds like it spreads fast so I'd hit it quick and hard. Buy the Bayer and order more for future use.

I just find dollar spot in my 3 week old reno today. So far it's only 3 spots. After getting advice from STL I ordered a gallon of Propicazonole 41.8% and am going to treat it. I might pick up the Bayer for now so I can get it down asap.

[Billy]

1) If you're using a liquid formulation, don't compare the percentages -- they can be misleading. Compare the amount of active ingredient on a weight basis, since that's how use rates are calculated. There was another post this week where we showed that two glyphosate products each with a 41% label had different amounts of glyphosate in them. Manufacturers don't use the percentage in determining rates, so we shouldn't do it, either.

2) Look closely to see if you really have active brown patch, or if it's something else. There's usually not much brown patch activity in late Sept. Also, monitor the weather. If your highs are going to be < 85 and your dew point < 70 anytime soon, your fungicide app will be wasted, since you'll be targeting brown patch that isn't even active. Oh, and if you're fertilizing with N and you've got active brown patch -- STOP!

3) Understand, too, that fungicides slow down the pathogen, but they don't make the plant recover. Anything that's damaged will need to grow out before the damage is gone. If you spray, avoid the temptation to think it didn't work or that you need more if the grass is still injured 1-4 wks later.

[Marinegrunt]

1) If you're using a liquid formulation, don't compare the percentages -- they can be misleading. Compare the amount of active ingredient on a weight basis, since that's how use rates are calculated. There was another post this week where we showed that two glyphosate products each with a 41% label had different amounts of glyphosate in them. Manufacturers don't use the percentage in determining rates, so we shouldn't do it, either.

2) Look closely to see if you really have active brown patch, or if it's something else. There's usually not much brown patch activity in late Sept. Also, monitor the weather. If your highs are going to be < 85 and your dew point < 70 anytime soon, your fungicide app will be wasted, since you'll be targeting brown patch that isn't even active. Oh, and if you're fertilizing with N and you've got active brown patch -- STOP!

3) Understand, too, that fungicides slow down the pathogen, but they don't make the plant recover. Anything that's damaged will need to grow out before the damage is gone. If you spray, avoid the temptation to think it didn't work or that you need more if the grass is still injured 1-4 wks later.

I remember reading that glyphosate thread. I went over it a couple times but I didn't understand it. I guess I'm not understanding how you go by weight. It seems that if I have a gallon of 14.3% Propicazonole and, a gallon of 41.8% Propicazonole, the 41.8% is roughly 3 times more? Even after going back to the glypho post I don't get where you're getting the weight from? You would think 14.3% of a gallon is 18.3 oz. and 41.8% of a gallon is 53.5 oz. I'm not doubting anything you say though. Just from reading the glypho thread I know to trust your numbers and logic. I am not good with numbers and don't trust my logic. I just wish I could understand it because it would make taking care of our lawn much easier. I'm guessing it has something to do with the rates that the manufacturers tell you to apply it. Kind of like one saying you get 14.3% strength if an ounce is applied over 1000/k but the 41.8% might have to be applied at an ounce over 300 sq/ft area to get that 41.8% strength?

My dollar spot took off overnight. I ordered the 41.8% Propicazonole but decided to run and get some Bayer. My seed germinated about 14 days ago so I might do a little urea or milorganite. It's not quite out of sprout and pout. I ordered some more seed too because I know I'll have a bunch of dead spots.

[STL]

Here's an example of the math for a weight conversion. It's for generic azoxystrobin that wasn't labeled for turf.

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=22708&start=20

The prop you bought should be labeled just fine for turf apps so go off of that or the pesttong site should have the PDF label too.

[wis99ski]

Most of the affected area sees late afternoon sun only. Highs are >82 and dew point in the low to mid 60s. I thought the small apps of Hertage G would fix the issue. It’s been a very very wet and humid summer and only used Milo for N app once this summer. I hope it’s not pythium blight. I never saw any real lesions, just thining and then areas turning dry and brown. To save me time from researching (for now) how can you tell if it’s still active? I’m not an expert with disease as I usually do preventative Heritage G

[wis99ski]

Well its not brown patch..... its sod webworms. I hope its not too late for dylox but its been dry...damn! I skip grub prevention one year and this is what happens

[Marinegrunt]

Atleast you got it figured out and know what to watch for in the future. My dollar spot is still spreading. I applied urea and some Propicazonole on Friday but I don't know how long the wait time is or what to expect.

Good luck with the webworms. Hopefully we have time to get out lawns fixed before the really cold weather gets here. I ordered another 50 lb bag of seed for mine. I hope it's enough.

[wis99ski]

Yes. I usually use chlorantraniliprole or imidacloprid but skipped this year bc I have used it the past 3-4 years and thought I "broke" the cycle. Nope sod webworms decide to take over...

[73Chall]

wis99ski,

What did you use that was successful?
And, where did you obtain it, please?

I just sampled my thatch and have confirmed what i am chasing are, in fact, sod webworms and the damage is extensive enough I need to resort to a curative - chemical control to try and get back out in front of the damage before cold weather arrives!

Thanks in advance and Happy Halloween!