Final feeding question.
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- Posts: 306
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- Grass Type: Some tall fescues, along with Bedazzled, Bewitched, Blue Velvet.
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Final feeding question.
I normally use Milorganite in early spring and then again in early fall. For the final feeding of the year is milorganite the best choice? Or should I use an “official” late fall/winter fertilizer? Thanks in advance.
(Cape Cod, zone 7A)
(Cape Cod, zone 7A)
- andy10917
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Re: Final feeding question.
The issue is that as the lawn is slowing, so is the microherd that breaks down the Milorganite. Milorganite is NOT a good final fertilization.
See Note #1 of the Fall Nitrogen Regimens thread:
See Note #1 of the Fall Nitrogen Regimens thread:
(1) If you prefer organic sources, you can use them successfully for Early Fall treatments, but they can't be used as Winterizers as the microherd goes to sleep around the same time as grass top-growth stoppage.
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- Posts: 306
- Joined: August 13th, 2010, 9:42 pm
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- Lawn Size: 20000-1 acre
- Level: Some Experience
Re: Final feeding question.
Noted. Thanks. Could you recommend something suitable?
- andy10917
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Re: Final feeding question.
Urea (46-0-0) is the best and cheap too.
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Re: Final feeding question.
Andy,
What are your thoughts on using a 10-10-10 at 5lbs/1,000 s/f as a final feeding?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Expert-Garde ... gLwTvD_BwE
Too much K right before winter? I had been recommended this one to winterize and it was a cheap find on the shelf at Walmart.
- andy10917
- Posts: 29744
- Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
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Re: Final feeding question.
If you're cautious, then that's too much Potassium this late in the season. A couple of studies showed Winter Kill and Snow Mold rise with late-season Potassium.
Also, the LAST (winterizing) application should deliver 1 lb/K of Nitrogen. That would be 10 lbs/K of 10-10-10, not 5 lbs/K. The 0.5 lbs/K rate is Fall applications done before the first average frost date. The last app is once growth has stopped, and is at the 1 lb/K rate. I have a hard time believing that you can find 10-10-10 applied at a rate of 10 lbs/K cheaper than 2 lbs/K of Urea. Do the math! Of course the Walmart guys are going to tell you to use their product - they don't sell the right (and cheapest!) product.
Also, the LAST (winterizing) application should deliver 1 lb/K of Nitrogen. That would be 10 lbs/K of 10-10-10, not 5 lbs/K. The 0.5 lbs/K rate is Fall applications done before the first average frost date. The last app is once growth has stopped, and is at the 1 lb/K rate. I have a hard time believing that you can find 10-10-10 applied at a rate of 10 lbs/K cheaper than 2 lbs/K of Urea. Do the math! Of course the Walmart guys are going to tell you to use their product - they don't sell the right (and cheapest!) product.
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- Posts: 306
- Joined: August 13th, 2010, 9:42 pm
- Location: Zone 7A(Cape Cod, MA)
- Grass Type: Some tall fescues, along with Bedazzled, Bewitched, Blue Velvet.
- Lawn Size: 20000-1 acre
- Level: Some Experience
Re: Final feeding question.
Cost really isn’t an object. I just want to put the right stuff down at the right time. I didn’t realize the final feeding should be AFTER growth has stopped. It’s slowing here but hasn’t stopped. (In fact I’m going to cut the grass later today). Sounds like you think Urea is too much, which is fine with me. I’ve never worked with it. A neighbor who is an agronomist thinks Milorganite would be fine.andy10917 wrote: ↑October 26th, 2018, 9:13 amIf you're cautious, then that's too much Potassium this late in the season. A couple of studies showed Winter Kill and Snow Mold rise with late-season Potassium.
Also, the LAST (winterizing) application should deliver 1 lb/K of Nitrogen. That would be 10 lbs/K of 10-10-10, not 5 lbs/K. The 0.5 lbs/K rate is Fall applications done before the first average frost date. The last app is once growth has stopped, and is at the 1 lb/K rate. I have a hard time believing that you can find 10-10-10 applied at a rate of 10 lbs/K cheaper than 2 lbs/K of Urea. Do the math! Of course the Walmart guys are going to tell you to use their product - they don't sell the right (and cheapest!) product.
- andy10917
- Posts: 29744
- Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
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- Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
- Lawn Size: 1 acre-2 acre
- Level: Advanced
Re: Final feeding question.
Read the first post in the Fall Nitrogen Regimens thread again, and see the late-Fall section on winterizing for the LAST application. See the comment also at the top of it that emphasizes that "slow growth is NOT STOPPED". Milorganite is NOT appropriate for application of the last fertilization - the microherd is basically stopped at the same time as the grass stops, so it will not fertilize well before the roots also go to sleep. The process for Milorganite to fertilize the roots requires the microherd to be active, and it is very different than the process for synthetic fertilizers.
I don't know where you got that from - I think Urea is the very best solution for late-Fall fertilization. I heartily endorse it for the last application.Sounds like you think Urea is too much, which is fine with me.
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- Posts: 306
- Joined: August 13th, 2010, 9:42 pm
- Location: Zone 7A(Cape Cod, MA)
- Grass Type: Some tall fescues, along with Bedazzled, Bewitched, Blue Velvet.
- Lawn Size: 20000-1 acre
- Level: Some Experience
Re: Final feeding question.
Sorry to misinterpret. I’ll order some Urea today!
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- Posts: 306
- Joined: August 13th, 2010, 9:42 pm
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- Grass Type: Some tall fescues, along with Bedazzled, Bewitched, Blue Velvet.
- Lawn Size: 20000-1 acre
- Level: Some Experience
Re: Final feeding question.
Do you recommend 2lb/1k sq feet application?andy10917 wrote: ↑October 26th, 2018, 9:55 amRead the first post in the Fall Nitrogen Regimens thread again, and see the late-Fall section on winterizing for the LAST application. See the comment also at the top of it that emphasizes that "slow growth is NOT STOPPED". Milorganite is NOT appropriate for application of the last fertilization - the microherd is basically stopped at the same time as the grass stops, so it will not fertilize well before the roots also go to sleep. The process for Milorganite to fertilize the roots requires the microherd to be active, and it is very different than the process for synthetic fertilizers.
I don't know where you got that from - I think Urea is the very best solution for late-Fall fertilization. I heartily endorse it for the last application.Sounds like you think Urea is too much, which is fine with me.
- andy10917
- Posts: 29744
- Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
- Location: NY (Lower Hudson Valley)
- Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
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- Level: Advanced
Re: Final feeding question.
Absolutely! That's the recommended rate and delivers 0.92 lbs/K of Nitrogen - just a teensy bit below the 1 lb/K of Nitrogen.
Do not bother looking for it at the Big-Box stores - it will not be there...
Do not bother looking for it at the Big-Box stores - it will not be there...
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- Posts: 306
- Joined: August 13th, 2010, 9:42 pm
- Location: Zone 7A(Cape Cod, MA)
- Grass Type: Some tall fescues, along with Bedazzled, Bewitched, Blue Velvet.
- Lawn Size: 20000-1 acre
- Level: Some Experience
Re: Final feeding question.
Oh, I know not to look there. Found a decent deal on Amazon. Looks like I have to buy more than I need(50lb bag) but some will be left over for next year.
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Re: Final feeding question.
Roger that, I'll probably stash my 10-10-10 until spring and scoop some Urea from my local lawn/garden spot. $19.00 for a 50lb bag.andy10917 wrote: ↑October 26th, 2018, 9:13 amIf you're cautious, then that's too much Potassium this late in the season. A couple of studies showed Winter Kill and Snow Mold rise with late-season Potassium.
Also, the LAST (winterizing) application should deliver 1 lb/K of Nitrogen. That would be 10 lbs/K of 10-10-10, not 5 lbs/K. The 0.5 lbs/K rate is Fall applications done before the first average frost date. The last app is once growth has stopped, and is at the 1 lb/K rate. I have a hard time believing that you can find 10-10-10 applied at a rate of 10 lbs/K cheaper than 2 lbs/K of Urea. Do the math! Of course the Walmart guys are going to tell you to use their product - they don't sell the right (and cheapest!) product.
https://millbafs.com/crops/fertilizer/# ... 25159-01c0
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Re: Final feeding question.
I planned to follow the direction on milorganite's website and dump it around thankgiving. After checking this thread and Fall Nitrogen Regimens thread, I understand it's a bad idea. But I am not sure if the concept of "standard for renovated lawn and aggressively for established lawn" is also applied to the final fertilization. My lawn was overseeded and partially renovated 5 weeks ago, so I am wandering if urea 46-0-0 is safe for the final feedingandy10917 wrote: ↑October 26th, 2018, 9:55 amRead the first post in the Fall Nitrogen Regimens thread again, and see the late-Fall section on winterizing for the LAST application. See the comment also at the top of it that emphasizes that "slow growth is NOT STOPPED". Milorganite is NOT appropriate for application of the last fertilization - the microherd is basically stopped at the same time as the grass stops, so it will not fertilize well before the roots also go to sleep. The process for Milorganite to fertilize the roots requires the microherd to be active, and it is very different than the process for synthetic fertilizers.
I don't know where you got that from - I think Urea is the very best solution for late-Fall fertilization. I heartily endorse it for the last application.Sounds like you think Urea is too much, which is fine with me.
- andy10917
- Posts: 29744
- Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
- Location: NY (Lower Hudson Valley)
- Grass Type: Emblem KBG (Front); Blueberry KBG Monostand (Back)
- Lawn Size: 1 acre-2 acre
- Level: Advanced
Re: Final feeding question.
Yes, if the growth has completely stopped growing.
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- Posts: 306
- Joined: August 13th, 2010, 9:42 pm
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- Grass Type: Some tall fescues, along with Bedazzled, Bewitched, Blue Velvet.
- Lawn Size: 20000-1 acre
- Level: Some Experience
Re: Final feeding question.
Andy, I think you’re in the same general area I am(southeast Mass). Would you say the grass completely stops growing around early December or so?
- andy10917
- Posts: 29744
- Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
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Re: Final feeding question.
No. It stops when it stops. Your lawnmower will tell you when. Calendars have much value - in the compost pile. I know mine will be in the next 2-3 weeks.
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- Posts: 306
- Joined: August 13th, 2010, 9:42 pm
- Location: Zone 7A(Cape Cod, MA)
- Grass Type: Some tall fescues, along with Bedazzled, Bewitched, Blue Velvet.
- Lawn Size: 20000-1 acre
- Level: Some Experience
Re: Final feeding question.
His lawn will stop growing in the next 2-3 weeks. I live on Cape Cod. My last cut of the year usually happens at the end of November.
I cut it short so that the leaves will blow into someone else’s yard.
- andy10917
- Posts: 29744
- Joined: February 23rd, 2009, 10:48 pm
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Re: Final feeding question.
My lawn will stop within 2-3 weeks. I'm betting closer to two weeks - the "Emblem" is nearly stopped now.
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